vero 29 questions

giggywatts

Well-Known Member
what would be a good driver with 110/120 ac inlet power? what would be a good heat sink? i have seen a lot of drivers and i'm still trying to learn, and the same goes for the heat sinks. on the heat sink i was told to find on that matched the watts, but i find very few that are listed that way, i have tried the search and i haven't found what i'm looking for. another question, which is better pulsed or stabilized voltage on the vero's? thanks in advance.
 
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giggywatts

Well-Known Member
i found what i'm looking for on another site by one of our members, i just couldn't find it here.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
There are many options for powering vero 29. It depends how many you want to power and how hard you want to drive them. 1050mA? 1400mA? Higher?

You should look for a switch mode constant current supply that can handle the voltage you need at the right current.

For a heatsink, you could go with a cheap artic alpine 11 plus per vero 29. The only issue I have with those is to get all 4 screws on, 2 tips of corners of the vero's thermal slug won't touch the sink. Probably not a big deal.

Pulsed or stabilized? What is this, 2004? lol.

what would be a good driver with 110/120 ac inlet power? what would be a good heat sink? i have seen a lot of drivers and i'm still trying to learn, and the same goes for the heat sinks. on the heat sink i was told to find on that matched the watts, but i find very few that are listed that way, i have tried the search and i haven't found what i'm looking for. another question, which is better pulsed or stabilized voltage on the vero's? thanks in advance.
 
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giggywatts

Well-Known Member
There are many options for powering vero 29. It depends how many you want to power and how hard you want to drive them. 1050mA? 1400mA? Higher?

You should look for a switch mode constant current supply that can handle the voltage you need at the right current.

For a heatsink, you could go with a cheap artic alpine 11 plus per vero 29. The only issue I have with those is to get all 4 screws on, 2 tips of corners of the vero's thermal slug won't touch the sink. Probably not a big deal.

Pulsed or stabilized? What is this, 2004? lol.

thanks, the arctic 11 plus is the heatsink i was looking at. as for as the driver it was a meanwell 60-1050, i think that is the right numbers. as i am still learning i'll take the 2004 thing as a joke. it was on the data sheet for the vero's. i believe i will need 4 at around 70 watts to get the wpsf with the lights i have now. just gonna do them one at a time.
 

MrFlux

Well-Known Member
thanks, the arctic 11 plus is the heatsink i was looking at. as for as the driver it was a meanwell 60-1050, i think that is the right numbers. as i am still learning i'll take the 2004 thing as a joke. it was on the data sheet for the vero's. i believe i will need 4 at around 70 watts to get the wpsf with the lights i have now. just gonna do them one at a time.
A Vero 29 @1050mA will be ~38W of LED power. If you want 70W per Vero you could use Meanwell LPF-90-48, or it's dimmable variant the LPF-90D-48 (both are 1880mA).

It's easiest to glue the Vero to the cooler with a thermal glue like Arctic Silver.
 

giggywatts

Well-Known Member
ok i need to read some more i thought i read that the 29 would run around 70 watts. if that is the case then at 70 they are being over driven? what would make the best wattage sor the 29? i have 16 square foot and i want to be just led, at the moment i have a small hps and cfls mixed with a 78w highbay 2-20w led floods and a 18w flood. i'm wanting atleast 25w a square foot from what i understand.
 

MrFlux

Well-Known Member
The nominal power is 81W. It can be driven up to 173W but this is not advisable (cooling becomes harder, efficiency & lifetime drops). It's best to stick around the 81W.

For you space about 8 Vero 29's would do the job.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
It sounds like you're asking a basic circuits question.

P = I * V
(Power = current * voltage)

If you are running a component with a current of 1050mA, and the voltage drop across the diode is 36V, the electric power dissipation is 1.05A * 36V = 37.8W

ok i need to read some more i thought i read that the 29 would run around 70 watts. if that is the case then at 70 they are being over driven?
 
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coolbreez1

Well-Known Member
You guys rock this lined out most of the information I needed for what I have been thinking about.

Arctic alpine 11 plus + Arctic Silver
Vero 29
LPF-90-48

The Pico-EZmate Harness seem like one of the reasons to go with the Bridgelux Vero over the Cree CXA?
Do you think its worth it to get fancy mean well cable joiners?
You would also need a power cord per driver to plug it into the wall?
And also small power supply/cord for the Arctic alpine 11 plus?

Per light:
1x Arctic Alpine 11 plus + Arctic Silver + Fan power supply/cord
1x Bridgelux Vero 29 - BXRC-35E10K0-L-03
1x Pico-EZmake harness
1x Mean-Well LPF-90-48
1x Powercord ... like - 6' North American AC Cord EL302, Flying Leads
2x LED PSU Cable Joiner 18-22AWG

Am I missing anything?
 

MrFlux

Well-Known Member
The Meanwell cable joiner (CJ04-2) is expensive, you can use Wago 222 connectors instead. These you can also use to tie the AC side of the drivers together so that only one wall plug is needed.

For the fans you can use for example Meanwell LPV-20-12 for a maximum of 6 fans or LPV-35-12 for max 10 fans.
 

coolbreez1

Well-Known Member
Awesome Mr Flux!

That makes things simpler I think...

Lets say I wanted to make 3 lights like above, but with the Wago 222 connectors:

3x Arctic Alpine 11 plus + Arctic Silver
3x Bridgelux Vero 29 - BXRC-35E10K0-L-03
3x Pico-EZmake harness
3x Mean-Well LPF-90-48
1x LPV-20-12 (would have power to run 3 more fans still)
2x Powercord ... like - 6' North American AC Cord EL302, Flying Leads (one for each power supply)
A bunch of Wago 222-413 lever-nuts 3 conductors

Can I run all 3 of the Mean-Well LPF-90-48s into two Wago 222-413 lever-nuts 3 conductors and then onto one power cord?

If I wanted to expand this to 6 lights, could I daisy chain threw another set of the WGO 222s and run all 6 from the one LPV-20-12 power supply?
 

smokey the cat

Well-Known Member
Sounds like you're getting it figured out.

Run the drivers off the same AC if you like. Add a fuse. I set up my 2 drivers to run off an IEC socket (same socket as on a PC power supply) so that polarity can't get mixed up. You can do whatever, just watch the polarity.

6 fans off the one power supply seems fine.



Mr Flux, since you are contributing to this thread and others might be interested: Vero colour: 3500k or 4000k. You think it makes a difference either way?
 

purplegrower02

Well-Known Member
I use one power cord and splice that off to power 8 seperate drivers makes it a lot neater and cleaner looking.

i put a 10 amp fuse inline and where i have everything hooked up to i have a 15a fuse, just extra insurance.
 

MrFlux

Well-Known Member
Can I run all 3 of the Mean-Well LPF-90-48s into two Wago 222-413 lever-nuts 3 conductors and then onto one power cord?
You would need two daisy chained pairs of wago 3's or two wago 5's for that (one slot is used up by the incoming wire).
If I wanted to expand this to 6 lights, could I daisy chain threw another set of the WGO 222s and run all 6 from the one LPV-20-12 power supply?
Sure you can do that. As a tip: The fan wires are very thin, too thin for the wago. What you can do is take the stripped ends of three wires, twist them around each other and put them in one wago slot. Pull each wire to make sure they are secure. While doing this reflect on what would happen if the connection were to fail.
Mr Flux, since you are contributing to this thread and others might be interested: Vero colour: 3500k or 4000k. You think it makes a difference either way?
Can't go wrong with either. In my flower cabinet I have both, one in the back and one in front. I prefer 4000K, it gives better penetration through the leaves and has more blue to stimulate resin production. Also I have a suspicion that leaves under the 3500K turn yellow a bit earlier.
 

ballist

Well-Known Member
You would need two daisy chained pairs of wago 3's or two wago 5's for that (one slot is used up by the incoming wire).


Sure you can do that. As a tip: The fan wires are very thin, too thin for the wago. What you can do is take the stripped ends of three wires, twist them around each other and put them in one wago slot. Pull each wire to make sure they are secure. While doing this reflect on what would happen if the connection were to fail.

Can't go wrong with either. In my flower cabinet I have both, one in the back and one in front. I prefer 4000K, it gives better penetration through the leaves and has more blue to stimulate resin production. Also I have a suspicion that leaves under the 3500K turn yellow a bit earlier.
Wouldn't the leaves turning yellow indicate heavier feeding under the 3500k? I would have thought that is a good thing?
 

MrFlux

Well-Known Member
Wouldn't the leaves turning yellow indicate heavier feeding under the 3500k? I would have thought that is a good thing?
My hunch is that with 3500K the top leaves will absorb more radiation (since there is more red), be more active and burn up faster. If this is a good thing, I dunno. If they die before the flowers are ready then I would think not. I try to distribute the photosynthesis as much as possible, also into the deeper layers.
 

smokey the cat

Well-Known Member
Thanks Flux, this is the sort of advice that doesn't appear in the data sheet. Penetration should be the aim - we all want foot-long colas.

FYI For the other guys here, my Vero 3000k proved to be a bit of a letdown. 3500k better by far, 3000k just too red on its own.
Low CRI versions of course.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I will have to try a few 3500k. I already have 6 vero 29 of 3000k (80cri).

Using 3000k in veg, I'm getting pretty good results.. All 6 will likely be put into the flowering cab, so I could get 2 of the 3500k for veg if you're saying you got better results.

I'm not sure if it's because of my aggressive topping and pruning (I cut lower shoots I don't want as soon as I see them), but my root growth using only 3000k has been very weird. Even the lateral growth has lateral growth, and the primary roots are all very short. I have one plant that's almost a foot tall that's strarting to fill in the canopy with roots barely coming out of the netcup!
 
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