What am I missing/doing wrong?!?

WaterDog

Well-Known Member
Detroit soil, typically feeding teas every third water so once a week or so. Plants seem to be budding well but losing all the green buds look decent lots of crystals but plants are pale in color and getting worse. Am I wasting electric here or will they finish out? Anything I can do to fix??? Please. Thank you
 

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nurrgle

Well-Known Member
Those girls need some food. I would recommend using a good bottled line for a few rounds before jumping into teas, they produce great results but require some experience.

If you worried about wasting electricity then defiantly go the bottle route u til you have your feet under you.

Good thing is you can go buy a bottle of bloom and base from someone and fix the problem. Might see a reduced yield but you’ll still harvest some dank.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
My two cents would be liqid kelp or fish emulsion for a couple feedings. 3 days they'll be darker and on their way again. Liquid supplementation004.jpg in all my soil grows.
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Detroit soil, typically feeding teas every third water so once a week or so. Plants seem to be budding well but losing all the green buds look decent lots of crystals but plants are pale in color and getting worse. Am I wasting electric here or will they finish out? Anything I can do to fix??? Please. Thank you
Give us some details about the tea.
Do you make it or buy it?
How do you make it?

What else have you fed them aside from the tea?

When you water. How much water are you giving each plant?
 

etruthfx

Well-Known Member
You should keep feeding grow nutes up until you see beginner buds forming before switching to bloom nutes. If you don't have enough Nitrogen in the plant to carry all the way through flowering they will start to yellow off prematurely. Either way yellowing is common as they start to finish so I would not worry about it.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I played with the soil depletion thing for a couple years. I top dress with Stonington Blend lobster fert and only use commercial tea blends as a top dressing. Never prepared. Over whelms your herd and starves them to death. Feed the soil carbs.
 

etruthfx

Well-Known Member
I played with the soil depletion thing for a couple years. I top dress with Stonington Blend lobster fert and only use commercial tea blends as a top dressing. Never prepared. Over whelms your herd and starves them to death. Feed the soil carbs.
It's like using Co2 without increasing the light or nutes, it's counter productive to increase microbial nutrient uptake with teas without compensating for nutes, essentially starving the plant.
 

etruthfx

Well-Known Member
Without healthy microbials you can add all the dry fert you want. Not available until converted.
Don't quote me on this but over 90% of nutrient uptake is produced by the microbes. I'm not sure of the exact number but it's something close. That's why I use only RO water and never tap because I believe the chlorine and such strips the mycorrhizae
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
In my experience Co2 is only complementary in high heat conditions. A plants transpiration is regulated by temp. And that Co2can only be utilized in conjunction with the available nutrition provided by the microbes and fungi.
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Don't quote me on this but over 90% of nutrient uptake is produced by the microbes. I'm not sure of the exact number but it's something close. That's why I use only RO water and never tap because I believe the chlorine and such strips the mycorrhizae
I think this theory has been debunked on here somewhere. Water is chlorinated just enough to get it safely to your house, not enough chlorine to be antibacterial.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Don't quote me on this but over 90% of nutrient uptake is produced by the microbes. I'm not sure of the exact number but it's something close. That's why I use only RO water and never tap because I believe the chlorine and such strips the mycorrhizae
De chlorinate tap.The cal. mag and other trace elements and minerals are essential. Unless you want to play god and buy and mix try to recreate at home.
 

etruthfx

Well-Known Member
In my experience Co2 is only complementary in high heat conditions. A plants transpiration is regulated by temp. And that Co2can only be utilized in conjunction with the available nutrition provided by the microbes and fungi.
I agree and that's where the VPD curve comes in because like you said transpiration is regulated by temp and humidity. Having all these things in line with the right genetics produces remarkable results. Of course feeding has to be dialed in aswell.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I think this theory has been debunked on here somewhere. Water is chlorinated just enough to get it safely to your house, not enough chlorine to be antibacterial.
Unless you have my over sanitized city water. Off the charts. LOL.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I use water soluble organics and increase ppm by 100 every feeding until I see a claw develop. Then I back off 50 ppm until my leaves go flat again. In two weeks start bumping by 100 again. Repeat.
 

etruthfx

Well-Known Member
De chlorinate tap.The cal. mag and other trace elements and minerals are essential. Unless you want to play god and buy and mix try to recreate at home.
That's why you add CaliMag along with your Grow and sometimes very rarely need to use micro nutes such as FloraMicro though I never do and my plants do wonderful, no micro deficiencies whatsoever.
Unless you have my over sanitized city water. Off the charts. LOL.
I live in Michigan where the water is notoriously bad. I have family members who use the City water and they swear by it, but to each their own. I know for a fact RO does not impact them negatively
 
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