What are the best fungi and bacteria innocults?

keepitcoastal

keepitcoastal

Well-Known Member
What do you guy's do to achieve your true living soils? I'm talking specifically what do you use for mycorrizahe fungi and also for beneficial bacteria's and when and how do you use them .There are so many different products on the market these days for mycorrizahe and benficials that's it's hard to know what to go for. Some have much higher spore counts than others. And others have 30 different types of bacteria half of which arnt even beneficial to marijuana... So for the people who really know there soils and products what should I use and what should I stay clear of. Iv used great white previously but it just seems awfully expensive. I also have xtreme gardening soluble mycos and baseline humus or humic acid. Iv got the rev's true living organics book pre ordered off amazon I'm trying to get a firm understanding of this so that I can do it right and actually know why!

On an iPad tried to edit best I could I hate this stupid thing​
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
One of those little cartons of earthworms dumped into each big planter. Then LIGHTLY sprinkle a LITTLE cornmeal every once in a while. Don't overwater for sure now. They will chew up the organics and literally shit them out - worm castings. Excellent organic fert. They like a little bit of coffee grounds once in a while. A little bit. Once in a while.

Actually I am a fun guy.
 
keepitcoastal

keepitcoastal

Well-Known Member
Would mixing mycos and oatmeal into some rich compost and then putting it in a dark box for 2-3 days be a good way to really get the fungi going for a fungus tea?

Iv read through the tea sticky and theres contradictions that make it confusing. I see one recipe for fungus saying to use fulvic acid and humic acid then says fulvic acid and humic acid kill fungi and should only be used for bacteria brew or compost tea.

What else do I want to add to my fungal tea to try and get the most from my outdoor garden now that we're just starting to flower?
 
keepitcoastal

keepitcoastal

Well-Known Member
hotrodharley said:
One of those little cartons of earthworms dumped into each big planter. Then LIGHTLY sprinkle a LITTLE cornmeal every once in a while. Don't overwater for sure now. They will chew up the organics and literally shit them out - worm castings. Excellent organic fert. They like a little bit of coffee grounds once in a while. A little bit. Once in a while.

Actually I am a fun guy.
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Awesome thank you I may just give this a try. Ever tried it indoors on smaller containers?
 
B

b0n3s

Member
what about gh subculture b and m? i have never used it but sure am interested in. done a LOAD of research and that to me seems to be the best. any one tryed that? i know i'm going to get mine in a few weeks from the hydo shop
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
b0n3s said:
what about gh subculture b and m? i have never used it but sure am interested in. done a LOAD of research and that to me seems to be the best. any one tryed that? i know i'm going to get mine in a few weeks from the hydo shop
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Kinda overpriced for what it is.

The ONLY 2 places I get myco's from:

www.fungi.com
www.bioag.com

Mycos are sorta wasted in a tea, or added to a mix. They need to be in contact with the roots to grow and that's where they should be applied. I usually do this on the first transplant of rooted clones. Same with seeds, first transplant after sprout, but you could do it sooner.

No worries on the 30+ different bacteria and such. What is beneficial will prosper, what isn't will go dormant or die off.

Wet
 
keepitcoastal

keepitcoastal

Well-Known Member
Subcool adds organism xl to his super soil mix correct??

Im starting afew worm composts and i plan to start picking up 50lbs of local worm castings whenever I need them. I'm going to be grabbing some 55 gallon barrels and big piston air pumps and I plan to switch over to full aact teas and highly amended organic soils.

Although iv been messing around a lot lately with using aact on some of my coco/perlite plants, they seem to love it. Iv been ph'ing using potassium bi carbonate for ph up and citric acid for ph down. And iv been using a control plant that im not ph'ing at all with the aact in the 50/50 coco/perlite mix. Any bacteria or fungi in the plans rizosphere with a connection with the plant will balance the ph to what the plant needs or demands. Am I right on this?
 
elduece

elduece

Active Member
keepitcoastal said:
Would mixing mycos and oatmeal into some rich compost and then putting it in a dark box for 2-3 days be a good way to really get the fungi going for a fungus tea?

Iv read through the tea sticky and theres contradictions that make it confusing. I see one recipe for fungus saying to use fulvic acid and humic acid then says fulvic acid and humic acid kill fungi and should only be used for bacteria brew or compost tea.

What else do I want to add to my fungal tea to try and get the most from my outdoor garden now that we're just starting to flower?
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You want fungi to dominate? If anything, fungal tea would let that happen and I don't think it's not in your best interest considering that fungi thrives in ph <5.9 environments but the flowering cannabis would starve. It's useful for like trees and blueberries etc though.
 
Jack Harer

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
Not entirely. You will need to set the pH of the soil to 6.8 (or so) with a "BUFFER", a buffer resists any pH change. Lime is a buffer as it is not readily soluble, potassium bicarb is readily soluble, and pH will rebound when it's gone. acterial secretions will lower pH as most are acidic, and the fungi will help keep pH in line, but it's the buffering action of the soil that makes organics stable. In organics, pH is no longer a controlling factor in nutrient uptake, the mycorrhizae are able to give nutrients to the plant, especially P, even when it's not readily available to the plants root system.

keepitcoastal said:
Subcool adds organism xl to his super soil mix correct??

Im starting afew worm composts and i plan to start picking up 50lbs of local worm castings whenever I need them. I'm going to be grabbing some 55 gallon barrels and big piston air pumps and I plan to switch over to full aact teas and highly amended organic soils.

Although iv been messing around a lot lately with using aact on some of my coco/perlite plants, they seem to love it. Iv been ph'ing using potassium bi carbonate for ph up and citric acid for ph down. And iv been using a control plant that im not ph'ing at all with the aact in the 50/50 coco/perlite mix. Any bacteria or fungi in the plans rizosphere with a connection with the plant will balance the ph to what the plant needs or demands. Am I right on this?
Click to expand...
 
Robear

Robear

Member
i really...really liked my results(bigger ,healthier root mass) with zho. ive used mycos, organism, and a local blend from our local nursery. zho wins out of the lot
 
Jack Harer

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
My skepticism over "store bought" innocculants is that you are buying a living culture sample. I've read way too many stories regarding folks who have bought innocculants from the MJ specific nutrient companies only to discover no living organisms. EWC and good natural compost have all the mycos you could need IMHO.
 
Endur0xX

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
Jack Harer said:
My skepticism over "store bought" innocculants is that you are buying a living culture sample. I've read way too many stories regarding folks who have bought innocculants from the MJ specific nutrient companies only to discover no living organisms. EWC and good natural compost have all the mycos you could need IMHO.
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Good to know Jack, I was going to order innocculants (nitrogen fixing bacteria and mycorrhizal fungi) with my last order because I was feeling fancy, but I didnt know if the stuff she had was good for marijan. However I am very confident about the other stuff that she sells on her website is of high quality and rich in living organisms.
 
trichmasta

trichmasta

Active Member
i only rock mycos in a granular form during transplants...a good tea regimen will always be the highest microbe count and best way to innoculate. its also gonna be cheaper [:
 
keepitcoastal

keepitcoastal

Well-Known Member
Jack Harer said:
Not entirely. You will need to set the pH of the soil to 6.8 (or so) with a "BUFFER", a buffer resists any pH change. Lime is a buffer as it is not readily soluble, potassium bicarb is readily soluble, and pH will rebound when it's gone. acterial secretions will lower pH as most are acidic, and the fungi will help keep pH in line, but it's the buffering action of the soil that makes organics stable. In organics, pH is no longer a controlling factor in nutrient uptake, the mycorrhizae are able to give nutrients to the plant, especially P, even when it's not readily available to the plants root system.
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I think I may have confused you, I was mentioning two different things. Iv have my soil plants which have plenty of lime already and my soil ph always stays relatively in range. But I was talking about my indoor coco/perlite plants at the end there, and I typically always ph to 5.8 and water twice a day. But recently on one test plant iv been not ph'ing an aact tea and just feeding it too it, no deficiencys and no I'll effects so far, and only requires one watering per day now.
I like coco/perlite a lot and I know I could essentially just add lime , humus and their amendments and make it into a soil pretty much, but will it still preform like it did when I treated it like hydro?
 
keepitcoastal

keepitcoastal

Well-Known Member
elduece said:
You want fungi to dominate? If anything, fungal tea would let that happen and I don't think it's not in your best interest considering that fungi thrives in ph <5.9 environments but the flowering cannabis would starve. It's useful for like trees and blueberries etc though.
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I feel like iv read multiple places that you indeed want fungi to dominate in flowering to achieve maximum hydro like yields
 
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