What are you using for integrated pest management?

I haven't had bugs in years, but this summer has changed all that. I discovered I have spider mites in a small isolated area in my flower room of 19 plants. I'm 27 days into flower, so nuclear options are out the window. I went with a product called Venerate last night which is described as a bioinsecticide. It's an organic strain of bacteria that mixed with water that makes the bugs central nervous system go all haywire so they stop eating. I used it at full strength 5tbsp/gallon with RO water. I had to use 4 gallons to cover the entire garden. I separated each plant one by one and sprayed it down including the under sides of the leaves. It was a through and through nightmare and took 6 hours to complete. I had to stake a bunch more branches because after spraying them they flopped down to the sides. I consumed every single garden stake available by the time it was said and done. I did this with lights on and all lights dialed down to minimum power as I waited for the liquid to evaporate from the plants due to mold concerns spraying with lights off.

This issue happened in my garden because I was not incorporating any form of integrated pest management in my garden. I was complacent, and this is the result. I plan to use Forbid 4F by Bayer before my plants enter the flower room moving forward. It has a 6 week half life (if I remember correctly) before the plant fully metabolizes the pesticide out of it's tissue. It is systemic. It cannot be used in flower though, so it was not an option for me with the present infestation. As the value of my harvests is growing, so are my concerns with maintaining a smooth running operation. When you're paying $450-550/month for electric consumption to run the garden a substantial loss due to preventable operator error is just not acceptable.

I have some questions for other gardeners with larger grow rooms.
What do you use for IPM?
Do you spray at lights on with reduced power or at lights off?
Is mold only a concern with limited air movement coupled with high humidity or can it occur with high humidity only?
Do you think there is any other product that would work more effectively than Forbid 4F?

I've heard of people (mostly dispensaries) using Azamax, even in late flower and stopping use 2 weeks before harvest. It can even be added to your reservoir or used as a soil drench if you are worried about leaf burn or the residue some people claim it leaves behind. It is labeled as organic and claims that it does not harm beneficials. Growers combine this method with another for max effectiveness. I can say it is effective, but I can't provide guidance on it's use and safety.