What Do We Have Here….

D

drewusmaximus

Member
Hi all, I was hoping some of y’all can tell me what’s going on here. I flipped to flower back on June 23rd. My water is PH to 6.3-6.6. I use Dr. Earth 3-9-4 and unsulfured molasses. I just flushed the plants yesterday with ph 6.6. I’m wondering why they got to this point. I feel like they’re experiencing nute burn, but I could be wrong because I’m a new grower.
thanks in advance.
 

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HydoDan said:
What soil? Did you add any amendments? That much yellow is usually underfeeding..
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Underfeeding? never thought of it that way. I started with Fox Farm Ocean Forest. On the 5th week, I flipped to flower and started using Dr. Earth, water and unsulfured molasses. At the third feeding, I checked the run off and the PPMs were at 2000. My tap water is at 450 PPMs. minus the water, the nutes were at 1550.
 
Stop with the molasses!t It's building up in your soil and causing lockout issues for you. So even though you're providing food, it's not getting absorbed by your plant.

Think about getting some earth worm castings or compost to top dress your plants with to restore your microbes and get nutrients available for your plants. Or you could use some commercial microbe product if you're into that style.
 
Stop pHing down your water and for god sake stop using molasses mixed straight in water. It's one of the oldest and most persistent garden myths there is. It doesn't work the way you think it does.

Your pH is low in the medium causing a whole range of lockouts. You grow in peat based soil? Hope everything's getting sorted out, good luck!
 
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Wastei said:
Stop pHing down your water and for god sake stop using molasses mixed straight in water. It's one of the oldest and most persistent garden myths there is. It doesn't work the way you think it does.

Your pH is low in the medium causing a whole range of lockouts. You grow in peat based soil? Hope everything's getting sorted out, good luck!
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From what I researched, the molasses feeds the microbial life in the soil, which then aids the roots Iup taking the nutrients. My tap watering roughly 7ish PH and the PPMs are around 450. Do I not touch the Water’s PH? I thought a PH above 6.8 is a bit too alkaline. I have the Fox Farm nutes, but I didn’t want to go the synthetic route this round. My question is, what do I do to recover the plants? Are they recoverable? Can they bounce back? I think I have a few weeks left before harvest and I want to do whatever it takes to get them up to par before harvesting.
thanks in advance!
 
drewusmaximus said:
From what I researched, the molasses feeds the microbial life in the soil, which then aids the roots Iup taking the nutrients. My tap watering roughly 7ish PH and the PPMs are around 450. Do I not touch the Water’s PH? I thought a PH above 6.8 is a bit too alkaline. I have the Fox Farm nutes, but I didn’t want to go the synthetic route this round. My question is, what do I do to recover the plants? Are they recoverable? Can they bounce back? I think I have a few weeks left before harvest and I want to do whatever it takes to get them up to par before harvesting.
thanks in advance!
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I'm afraid your thoughts are plain wrong. If you want to multiply microbes I suggest you do this in a controlled manner with EWC/microbial teas.

Using molasses straight will only suffocate roots if overused, crash pH to LOW and destroy the structural integrity of the soil.

pHing with organics is pointless, the catalyst and nutrient transporter is the microbes and they should decide and control pH for you.
 
Wastei said:
I'm afraid your thoughts are plain wrong. If you want to multiply microbes I suggest you do this in a controlled manner with EWC/microbial teas.

Using molasses straight will only suffocate roots if overused, crash pH to LOW and destroy the structural integrity of the soil.

pHing with organics is pointless, the catalyst and nutrient transporter is the microbes and they should decide and control pH for you.
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I appreciate the insight. I’m still not sure how to approach these plants. Are they recoverable? Do I just feed them water from this point on? Do I continue to use tap water? Do I pickup some spring water and use that? Do I give it tiger bloom? I don’t know which direction to take.
 
drewusmaximus said:
I appreciate the insight. I’m still not sure how to approach these plants. Are they recoverable? Do I just feed them water from this point on? Do I continue to use tap water? Do I pickup some spring water and use that? Do I give it tiger bloom? I don’t know which direction to take.
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I would personally look into brewing EWC/microbial teas. The immense multiplication and amounts of microbes in teas will probably fix the problems caused by molasses. I would not add any more nutrients before plants fully recovered.
 
I'm growing in FFOF and planning to just top feed with more OF once a week after week 5. First time grower but that seems more simple to me than amending. I know I'd screw that up. Plus I'm running autos so there's only 5-6 weeks left after.
 
ClosetAutos said:
I'm growing in FFOF and planning to just top feed with more OF once a week after week 5. First time grower but that seems more simple to me than amending. I know I'd screw that up. Plus I'm running autos so there's only 5-6 weeks left after.
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I thought FFOF has nutrients for the veg cycle, not the flowering cycle. If that’s the case, I should be able to do that throughout the entire run.
 
I did some more research and I was indeed wrong. You will need something more substantive than more OF soil to top feed with from what I'm reading. My mistake. Again, I'm a first time grower myself so just wanted to make sure I corrected myself before you took my bad advice and starved your girls. Hopefully someone way more knowledgable will come through and set us both straight.
 
This is how they look since the last time I uploaded the pictures. All I did was flush it with a gallon of spring water, until the PPMs were at 1100. I’m going to still hang in there and hope for the best I think I have a couple more weeks to go they popped on Mother’s Day, flipped to flower on June 20th it’ll be two month in flower on the 20th should I go 9 or 10 weeks?View attachment 4963883View attachment 4963884View attachment 4963885View attachment 4963886View attachment 4963883View attachment 4963884View attachment 4963885View attachment 4963886View attachment 4963884View attachment 4963885View attachment 4963886View attachment 4963883
ClosetAutos said:
I did some more research and I was indeed wrong. You will need something more substantive than more OF soil to top feed with from what I'm reading. My mistake. Again, I'm a first time grower myself so just wanted to make sure I corrected myself before you took my bad advice and starved your girls. Hopefully someone way more knowledgable will come through and set us both straight.
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no worries. I just ordered some cal mag in hopes it will help my plants. I have a few, if not a couple weeks left for harvest. I’m going to spray the leaves with cal mag and water and add cal mag to a gallon of water and run it through the soil with a teaspoon of tiger bloom and maybe a half teaspoon of big bloom for a little nitrogen. I’m going to pause on the dry amendments for now. I’ll take one plant in the next round and test with the Dr. EArth to see how the plant reacts. I have a little female plant in the blue Dixie cup on one of my pictures that I posted. It was looking great until I sprinkled a little Dr. Earth on the top soil. A few days later, I noticed the lower leaves yellowing and slight change of color on the stems. I flushed the cup with water to see if the plant will recover and so far no change on the yellow leaves. Tomorrow is due for some water and I’ll give it some calmag with tiger bloom as check a few days later.
 
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