what do you think about the purple?

The purple edges seem different than any pics I have found online.
It's not due to cold temps, I know that.

anyone out there? Comments?? I would like your input please.

Beginning of a P deficiency I would venture to guess.......they look hungry overall actually.

cowboylogic said:

Beginning of a P deficiency I would venture to guess.......they look hungry overall actually.

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Thanks, I think I had nute lock about 2 weeks ago. I flushed and foliar fed with 4-10-7 (has .5 Mg) and FF Big Bloom plus Molasses in the regular watering. It is drinking very slow. The last feed was 5 days ago (4-10-7 & BB) ph 6.5 run off 5.8, temps 77 lights on 70 lights off and humidity 35% to 45% 600w HPS. Have you ever seen the purple edges like that before?

If your sure it`s not cold than it is a lack of potassium (potash).
All you need to do is treat your soil with a high potash fert (tomato food is ideal). It wont bring the affected leaves back to their original green state but it WILL stop the problem spreading to the rest of your plant.

I will look into the P and K thanks for the advice.

still would like more peeps to chime in. The purple edges are only on the leaves around the buds, the rest of the leaves are green to light green and most of the big fan leaves have dropped off in the last week.

countrygirl said:

Thanks, I think I had nute lock about 2 weeks ago. I flushed and foliar fed with 4-10-7 (has .5 Mg) and FF Big Bloom plus Molasses in the regular watering. It is drinking very slow. The last feed was 5 days ago (4-10-7 & BB) ph 6.5 run off 5.8, (not good) temps 77 lights on 70 lights off and humidity 35% to 45% 600w HPS. Have you ever seen the purple edges like that before? Yes It has happened to me a few times.

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Your run-off being at 5.8 is low you are still in a lock out on some elements. Run-off should be in the high 6.5+ to 7.0.

In soil you want to try to keep it at 7 as that is where the elements are 100% available to your plants. At 5.8 your plants are not using 20 to 30% of your food.

woodsmaneh! said:

Your run-off being at 5.8 is low you are still in a lock out on some elements. Run-off should be in the high 6.5+ to 7.0.

In soil you want to try to keep it at 7 as that is where the elements are 100% available to your plants. At 5.8 your plants are not using 20 to 30% of your food.

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hmmmm, everything I have read says use 6.5 to water, before I got my PH pen I was watering with 7 or a little higher and I had all kinds of problems. I have dolomite in my soil.

I tried to rep you but it says I have to spread it around lol. I'll catch you later on with the rep.

I always believed 6.5 was the best also, till I started looking at the mobility of the elements that plants use. This is a little deeper than 97% of the people here look so I am not surprised by everyone saying 6.5 because a long time ago that's what someone said. I like learning new info so am always doing research to see what is True vs False or old school vs new school.

I am not sure why you had issues at 7.0, but 6.5 is not to far off and if it works for you than it's all good. Here is some info for you...

[FONT=&quot]essential element[/FONT][FONT=&quot] - an element required by plants for normal growth, development and completion[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] of its life cycle, and which cannot be substituted for by other chemical[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] compounds.[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]17 ELEMENTS ARE REQUIRED BY PLANTS[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] 3 supplied naturally by air and water - comprise the bulk of the plant [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] C, H, 0 [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] 6 macronutrients[/FONT][FONT=&quot] - required at 0.1 to 6% of the dry weight of plants [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] N, P, K, S, Ca, Mg [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] 8 micronutrients[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]- required at 1 to 300 ppm of the dry weight of plants [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Fe, Zn, Cu, Mo, B, Mn, Cl, Ni [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Cl and Ni are ubiquitous - hence, will not be addressed in detail [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The essential elements can be easily remembered by a catch phrase such as [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]C[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. HOPKiNS CaFe, CuB, Mn, C.l. MoNiZnsky, Mgr[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]NUTRIENT MOBILITY[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Two directions of movement in plants[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]1)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] acropetal[/FONT][FONT=&quot] - means towards the apex; transport up the in xylem [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]2)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] basipetal [/FONT][FONT=&quot]- means towards the base; transport down in the phloem [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Two classifications of nutrient mobility [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]1)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] mobile [/FONT][FONT=&quot]- moves both up and down the plant by both acropetal and basipetal transport (in both [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] the xylem and the phloem). [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Deficiency appears on older leaves first. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] N, P, K, Mg, S [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]2)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] immobile[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]- moves up the plant by only acropetal (in the xylem) transport [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Deficiency appears on new leaves first. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]EFFECT OF pH[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]The pH determines solubility in the soil[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]1)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] more available at low pH (below 5.5), and less available at high pH. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Fe, Zn, Cu, Mn, B [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]2) more available at high pH (above 6.5), and less available at low pH.[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] N, K, Mg, Ca, S, Mo [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]3)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] more available at intermediate pH (6-7) [/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot] P [/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

Although they do indeed look a little starved.....but anyone think purple might be strain related?

I had a couple comments on a dif thread that suggest the strain could be the case. I just gave it a full strength feed of an organic 4-10-7, actually the first time I fed full stregth. PH 6.5 and the run off was also 6.5, I must have logged the last time wrong. I have been going a tad light on nutes because it started in MG soil so I figured it had some nutes left in the old soil and also because I get hermies a lot (it's the seeds) and I read that lighter nutes can help it to not hermie. So I tried it. No balls, but hungry plants LOL

Thanks woodsmaneh for sharing so much of the info you find, I really appreciate it. I will give reps as soon as it will let me

I am a diehard MG soil supporter. Someone who hates MG doesnt understand how to grow. The expensive soild and bottle nutes are designed for begginers. Its true(in my opinion) that MG contains high salts and knat eggs. I had lockout several times because of this. But once you learn how to use MG soil and ferts you will understand why I love it. Its quality(after you learn it) its cheap and does have some nutrients in to. However dont wait three months to feed it. Although the MG organic I use says 3month I start feeding 2-3 weeks into growth.

Keep using MG, its not the soil that makes problems its the user. This reminds me of what we in the computer repair business used to call "User Error"

It's all in the hands of the grower, the more you learn the better you grow. A poor workman blames his tools. and everyone thinks you stick a plant in the dirt and it grows LMAO it's work, but I love it

looks like youll be finishing up in a few weeks ya? im no expert, but that LOOKS like a potassium issue..even N, with the yellowing of the leaves. idk if theres strains that perhaps have a purple hue to the foliage? probably are..

Potassium shows yellow around the edges first with a small brown patch before the green. You will also see darker veining on the leaves.

[FONT=&quot]Element Name[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Potassium [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Symbol[/FONT][FONT=&quot] K [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Atomic Number[/FONT][FONT=&quot] 19 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Atomic Mass[/FONT][FONT=&quot] 39.0983 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Potassium Facts:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Potassium makes up to 3.5% of the earth crust. It is a balanced element and is second only to nitrogen in the quantities required by the plants. K plays a role in photosynthesis, enzyme activation, stomata control and transport of plant sugars. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Practical Stuff:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Potassium is used at all stages of growth. Soils with a high level of potassium increase a plants resistance to bacteria and mould.[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Technical Stuff:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Potassium is essential to the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. It increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium is essential in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. It also encourages strong root growth and is associated with disease resistance and water intake. The potash form of potassium oxide is (K2O). [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Progression of deficiency symptoms at a glance:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]* Plant appear healthy with dark green foliage[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] * Leaves loose lustre[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] * Branching may increase but branches are weak and scrawny[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] * Leaf margins turn gray and progress to a rusty brown, curl up and dry[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] * Yellowing of older leaves accompanied by rust-coloured blotches[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] * Leaves curl up, rot sets in and older leaves drop.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] * Flowering retarded and diminished greatly.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds. Having too little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration. Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg, and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Muriate of Potash (MOP)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Potassium chloride (commonly referred to as Muriate of Potash or MOP is the common potassium source used in agriculture, accounting for about 95% of all potash fertilizers used worldwide. Keep in mind chloride reduces microbiological activity in the soil and at high levels can become toxic. Its nutrient composition is approximately: Potassium: 50% Chloride: 46% [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Sulphate of Potash (SOP)[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Potassium sulphate is used on crops that are sensitive to chloride or fertilizer, or where sulphur is deficient. Its nutrient composition is approximately: Potassium: 41% Sulphur: 18% [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Potassium Magnesium Sulphate K2Mg(SO4)2[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Potassium magnesium sulphate is an excellent source of three of the major nutrients - potassium, magnesium and sulphur. It is used mainly for high value crops, where all three of these nutrients are required. While it is 99.7% water soluble, the rate of solubility is slow and not recommended for application in crop irrigation systems. Its nutrient composition is approximately: Potassium:18% Magnesium: 11% Sulphur: 22% Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) Potassium nitrate, sometimes known as saltpeter, is often used in foliar sprays or fertilization because it is highly and quickly water soluble. Potassium nitrate has application as a potassium source for crops which are highly sensitive to chloride. It is an oxidizing agent though which leads to rusting of metal elements. Its nutrient composition is approximately: Potassium: 38% Nitrogen: [/FONT]

At least we know people can click and drag.

If you were growing a blue something maybe and it is for sure genetics in some plants but did you not say you have grown this before and this is the first time it's happened? So that leads me to think it's imbalance in nutrients as you ruled out cold. By the way if it's to cool at night the stocks will show colour. So a good feed and recheck temperatures should get all things back in order.

TheTokingKing said:

I am a diehard MG soil supporter. Someone who hates MG doesnt understand how to grow. The expensive soild and bottle nutes are designed for begginers. Its true(in my opinion) that MG contains high salts and knat eggs. I had lockout several times because of this. But once you learn how to use MG soil and ferts you will understand why I love it. Its quality(after you learn it) its cheap and does have some nutrients in to. However dont wait three months to feed it. Although the MG organic I use says 3month I start feeding 2-3 weeks into growth.

Keep using MG, its not the soil that makes problems its the user. This reminds me of what we in the computer repair business used to call "User Error"

Click to expand...

I haven't given up on the MG soil, I still believe it's me not the MG but I have gone 5 rounds with it and wanted something to compare it to. I have great success through veg and then lock up during flower. I have looked and looked for experienced MG growers. I love that the nutes are there for veg, I just have to figure out flower. Which I may have found the right flower nutes that I think will work with the MG during flower. I am going to get back to that after this run with organic soil. I HATE playing chemistry lab every time I water and feed. I am old school, it's pot, it shouldn't be this hard. Thanks for the input!

woodsmaneh! said:

It's all in the hands of the grower, the more you learn the better you grow. A poor workman blames his tools. and everyone thinks you stick a plant in the dirt and it grows LMAO it's work, but I love it

Click to expand...

learning learning learning!!! M O O N that spells learning. Thanks again woodsmaneh.

woodsmaneh! said:

If you were growing a blue something maybe and it is for sure genetics in some plants but did you not say you have grown this before and this is the first time it's happened? So that leads me to think it's imbalance in nutrients as you ruled out cold. By the way if it's to cool at night the stocks will show colour. So a good feed and recheck temperatures should get all things back in order.

Click to expand...

First time growing this seed. The plants up to this point have all been from the same bag seed (full of hermies) so you can imagine how excited I am to have something new. Don't get me wrong, I have grown some pretty gnarly buds from my hermies. LOL

i think its pretty...lol

lots of strains do this....many different purple strains out there....cooler temps during night cycle can bring this pheno out in these strains!!!

i have one too!!! Amazing...!!! soon as im off hold ill rep yah!!! peace

lime73 said:

i think its pretty...lol

lots of strains do this....many different purple strains out there....cooler temps during night cycle can bring this pheno out in these strains!!!

i have one too!!! Amazing...!!! soon as im off hold ill rep yah!!! peace

Click to expand...

I have had purple leaves in the past due to low temps. This one hasn't dropped below 70. Do you have a pic of your plant? I would love to compare.