Hey guys! So my plant just recently took a turn for the worst about a week ago. This is a sour diesel autoflowers, week 7 and in a 5 gal pit with happy frog soil, under a Mars hydro TS1000, also running reduced techno flora nutrients because I originally thought it the problem was a calcium deficiency! Since supplementing they have gotten worse! Any answers would help!
Why are my plants dying?!?
- Thread starter Rudolph1
- Start date
3rdcoastislanderz
Member
Nutrient burn/buildup and possible insect issue maybe
3rdcoastislanderz
Member
Like subu said flush with water then re pH everything and half dose on nutrients till you get a healthy rebound
maranibbana
Well-Known Member
First person to suggest it’s the light and or to feed more gets banned
maranibbana
Well-Known Member
get a microbe flush like rootwise (highly recommend) and or recharge (eh)
adopt a watering schedule and stick to it, 3 days a week, every other day, with sat and sun off, giving them 5-10% of the volume of your pot. Ie 15gal gets 1gal every watering
give them a week of this treatment and you’ll see them rebound, check the bud growth and new leaf growth to track success, the effected leaves won’t get better
adopt a watering schedule and stick to it, 3 days a week, every other day, with sat and sun off, giving them 5-10% of the volume of your pot. Ie 15gal gets 1gal every watering
give them a week of this treatment and you’ll see them rebound, check the bud growth and new leaf growth to track success, the effected leaves won’t get better
VincenzioVonHook
Well-Known Member
Check your runoff ppm...if it's higher than what's going in significantly, flush it until it's coming out steady. It's also handy to have the equipment to check medium pH regularly as well. I've had a similar issue a few times, but don't stress too much, it won't just die out of nowhere.
Most of the time it's not a deficiency, it's usually lock out due to low medium pH. There is usually heaps of built up salts in the soil that the roots just can't absorbs at a low pH. As maranibbana said, a microbe or enzyme additive will help a lot. Something like Cannazym is great (an enzymatic cleaner). It will help microbial and enzymatic digestion in the soil, and help turn the dead or rotting roots into a usable form of organic material to feed the plant. Definately the best option after a flush if there is suspected root damage from pests or acidic medium. There are better prices alternatives to Cannazym, it's just what I use ATM.
Most of the time it's not a deficiency, it's usually lock out due to low medium pH. There is usually heaps of built up salts in the soil that the roots just can't absorbs at a low pH. As maranibbana said, a microbe or enzyme additive will help a lot. Something like Cannazym is great (an enzymatic cleaner). It will help microbial and enzymatic digestion in the soil, and help turn the dead or rotting roots into a usable form of organic material to feed the plant. Definately the best option after a flush if there is suspected root damage from pests or acidic medium. There are better prices alternatives to Cannazym, it's just what I use ATM.
VincenzioVonHook
Well-Known Member
I'd say, the practise that takes the most guesswork out is to measure the runoff ppm every time you water, and make sure you runoff 15-20% once a week when you water to get a good idea on how the plant is uptaking the macronutrients available, and to give the soil chance to remove the macros that weren't used in the last feeding if you are adding any nutes via liquid...if it is steadily rising, there is a lockout issue due to pH, or the plant has slowed down on feeding. I find my plants slow down their uptake around week 7 or 8 of flower and focus on ripening, but yours doesn't look that far along that is should be cutting down on feed.
By the time deficiency, lockout or toxicity has set in, it's usually too late to effectively remedy the situation. You can catch it fairly early if you monitor your runoff and tailor you feeds by how much the plant is feeding compared to how much general guides run.
By the time deficiency, lockout or toxicity has set in, it's usually too late to effectively remedy the situation. You can catch it fairly early if you monitor your runoff and tailor you feeds by how much the plant is feeding compared to how much general guides run.
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VincenzioVonHook
Well-Known Member
Do you measure the TDS and pH of the solution going in and out? Soil will usually buffer itself, but if it's heavily out if whack microbe or enzyme wise pH can plummet. I had a peat/organic compost mix with dolomite and the medium pH ended up very acidic even though it was pre buffered, and the feed was going in at 6.5.
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