Yellowing leaves and hotdog-style folding

Bulbadose

Member
aight so I got this plant in my closet, 3 weeks into flowering, and I have noticed that the whole plant is turning yellowish green.

Also, some of the leaves are folding downward hotdog-style, as opposed to hamburger-style

plants details:
soil, indoor,
1 45w led, and a bunch of cfls.
ak47
fed with 15-30-15 every week

what to doooo?


thanksIMG_2465.jpgIMG_2467.jpgIMG_2466.jpg
 

DuMpSteRLoVe216

Active Member
you could be overfeeding and locking out nitrogen from getting to the plants,they shouldnt yellow that much in the first three weeks
 

Bulbadose

Member
I thought so cuz i saw some burnt edges. I flushed a few days ago. checked the ph, its at 7.1. should i feed it the nutes i gave it during veg? some 18-18-21
 

DuMpSteRLoVe216

Active Member
are you flushing with tap water? when you use it do only 1/4 strength and work your way up to see how much the plant can handle without burning
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
Are you feeding at full strength, doesn't look overfed to me but rather underfed or your nutrients are getting locked out. Usually the main cause of lockout is ph is outta whack or a salt build up
 

dirtysnowball

Well-Known Member
K deficiency; early stage = singed tips. mid stage yellowing tips. late stage = rust spots stating at the tip and travel inwards.
N deficiency; lower leaves yellow and die, yellowing climbs up the plant.

the wilting deceptivley looks like salt build up. but its really P deficiency; mid leaf area turns dark and dies, the leaf will curl down kinda tooView attachment 1775716

you need to feed
 

dirtysnowball

Well-Known Member
feed with your 15-30-15 at 2/3 strength every other watering, your plant should perk up and begin to get greener visually within 6hrs
 

Jonus

Well-Known Member
There is an assumption that plants do not need much nitrogen after switching to flowering. In actual fact in the first 3 weeks after switching, some plants can consume almost all the nitrogen they have in stores. In particular plants that put on growth spurts that can result in them almost doubling in size after switching. That 'doubling' in size is done via the macro nitrogen.

You should try to find a balanced nutrient that has the full range of macros (NPK) and micros something like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 and feed them with that until week 4 at which point you can start on the 10-15-10 type formulas because plants generally do not start to demand P and K until after week 4. Prior to that they need a more balanced NPK ratio.

Your plants are in need of nitrogen, so my guess is two things, one is a little bit of over watering and that the bloom forumula you're using is probably promoting phosphorous to dominate the rootzone too early thus not allowing any nitrogen in there is to get into the plants systems. That will cause the nutrient burn you are seeing, a buildup of phosphorous due to the plants not really needing a lot of it at this stage in their dev.

So they simply just leave most of it behind in the pot.
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
There is an assumption that plants do not need much nitrogen after switching to flowering. In actual fact in the first 3 weeks after switching, some plants can consume almost all the nitrogen they have in stores. In particular plants that put on growth spurts that can result in them almost doubling in size after switching. That 'doubling' in size is done via the macro nitrogen.

You should try to find a balanced nutrient that has the full range of macros (NPK) and micros something like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 and feed them with that until week 4 at which point you can start on the 10-15-10 type formulas because plants generally do not start to demand P and K until after week 4. Prior to that they need a more balanced NPK ratio.

Your plants are in need of nitrogen, so my guess is two things, one is a little bit of over watering and that the bloom forumula you're using is probably promoting phosphorous to dominate the rootzone too early thus not allowing any nitrogen in there is to get into the plants systems. That will cause the nutrient burn you are seeing, a buildup of phosphorous due to the plants not really needing a lot of it at this stage in their dev.

So they simply just leave most of it behind in the pot.
I totally agree about the nitrogen but in this case it just doesn't look like that.
 

Bulbadose

Member
Thanks for all the help guys, i retested my ph and found that it was around 6.4. I added a small amount of dolomite lime and gave it some water, that should help ya?
 

Bulbadose

Member
Plant looks worse today :( yellowing is reaching higher up plant and lower yellows are turning brown.
If ph is where it should be, what is to explain the lockout?
 

thegreensurfer

Well-Known Member
Flush & feed her already,
Your plant shows classic signs of Sulfur deficiency. As well as Calcium deficiency; the leafs are cupped down because with Ca def. the leaf margin cells divide at a slower rate than the middle of the leaf, causing it to protrude in the middle. Ca is a tricky def. to spot as it manifests itself in a couple different ways.
I suspect the over-application of P, aggravated by your initial high soil pH of 7.1 has locked out Ca, & Fe.
And since Ca has been chemically bound in the soil it has in turn locked out S.
 

thegreensurfer

Well-Known Member
Get it some Cal-Mag or dolomite/epsom salt combo.
I suggest the use of House & Garden nutrients, very precise formula, seldom any problems.
Update us on the progression.
 

Bulbadose

Member
yellowing is continuing to worsen.

I was definitely worried about overwaterring, so I put it outside so the soil would dry better, but its been pretty overcast :(

I fed it at 1/4 strength yesterday of 18-18-21.

ph reads 6.7

Is there any way I could add more nutrients without watering?
 

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DrFever

New Member
let the plant dry out a bit and give the dam thing some full strength food i can here it from here screaming its hungry and not veg food flowering food with 1/4 teaspoon of epsom salt and feed every watering
 
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