Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Steelheader3430

Steelheader3430

Well-Known Member
Dankswag do you have mycelium in your soil? There is a video on you tube of mycelium lassoing nitrogen carrying nematodes and killing them then eating the nutrients they carry. I got my amendments today, finally. Just need more glacial rock dust, another cu. foot of volcano rock and a long talk with my local organic gurus about an inoculated tea. I can't wait to mix this stuff. I'm more excited about the soil than picking a strain to be honest.
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
Steelheader3430 said:
Dankswag do you have mycelium in your soil? There is a video on you tube of mycelium lassoing nitrogen carrying nematodes and killing them then eating the nutrients they carry. I got my amendments today, finally. Just need more glacial rock dust, another cu. foot of volcano rock and a long talk with my local organic gurus about an inoculated tea. I can't wait to mix this stuff. I'm more excited about the soil than picking a strain to be honest.
Click to expand...
Steelheader,

Actually I add mycorrhizal mycelium fungi to all my plants roots on transplant from clone (solo cup) to their air pot.
My understanding of the symbiotic relationship between my plants and mycorrhizal is that the fungi attach themselves to the plants roots and extend the ability to uptake nutrients. So seeing a mycelium loop a neamotode is cool by me for that fungi will take the N in that little worm and send it right up to the plant roots it is attached to. So instead of waiting on that worm to digest the organic N in the soil to make it available it seems to me my fungi friends speed up the process by tying up these free wheeling nematodes and squeezing the shit of them to get the N quicker to my plants roots.

I think what happened to me is simply I put too much carbon (molasses) when feeding my microbeast, essentially I expotentially grew more beast then there was N in the soil to keep everyone happy including my plants.

Again I am happy to report all is well now and I did not have to take any major course of action expect not to feed with molasses for awhile till I get a good supply of organic N back into the soil then I will attempt to grow my microbeast again!

Speaking of educational mushroom video this is one is great..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ed71Wqb98vo

DankSwag
 
foreverflyhi

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
Hey just wanted to show these 3 diffrent tea foams. Yes im aware foam doesnt mean anything. Just thought it was cool how they all have there own look/texture/color/smell. Al have been brewing 24hrs+

First sst2 alfalfa seed


Wormcasting/kelp/mollasses (nevemind the bottles! Dont know what to fuckin do with them!)


botanical tea stinging nettle/horsetail/mollasses 48hrs


i like going to the trouble of brewing teas days ahead. It kinda gives meaning to my life because i have something to look forward to :)
 
Steelheader3430

Steelheader3430

Well-Known Member
Stepping on lava rocks a million times with bare feet sucks. Wheres my hippie friends? I needed a minion to do my bidding. My job has officially trashed my body cause I'm hurtin. An extra vertebrae at the base of my spine doesn't help. Oh well it felt good and soil is mixed. Thanks for the recipe Cann.
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
DANKSWAG said:
Steelheader,

Actually I add mycorrhizal mycelium fungi to all my plants roots on transplant from clone (solo cup) to their air pot.
My understanding of the symbiotic relationship between my plants and mycorrhizal is that the fungi attach themselves to the plants roots and extend the ability to uptake nutrients. So seeing a mycelium loop a neamotode is cool by me for that fungi will take the N in that little worm and send it right up to the plant roots it is attached to. So instead of waiting on that worm to digest the organic N in the soil to make it available it seems to me my fungi friends speed up the process by tying up these free wheeling nematodes and squeezing the shit of them to get the N quicker to my plants roots.

I think what happened to me is simply I put too much carbon (molasses) when feeding my microbeast, essentially I expotentially grew more beast then there was N in the soil to keep everyone happy including my plants.

Again I am happy to report all is well now and I did not have to take any major course of action expect not to feed with molasses for awhile till I get a good supply of organic N back into the soil then I will attempt to grow my microbeast again!

Speaking of educational mushroom video this is one is great..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ed71Wqb98vo

DankSwag
Click to expand...
Been going back through my notes and came across another possible situation when it comes to Nitrogen uptake. Calcium in this ROLS I know I did not add back any calcium before reusing the existing soil\root web from previously harvested plants.

So I grabbed some oyster shell powder for I have used dolomite lime before and unsure of its Cal\Mg ratio for a I know there is a concern in locking up or leaching out nutrients when there is too much Mg (magnesium) in the soil.

Anywise looking for some experience with application rate? Translating 4-6 pound per 100sq ft what does that look like in container gardening? Can I mix with water and water soil with? Or add top dress and water? Should I be concerned with too much Mg using Dolomite?

Are Oyster Shells an equal to calcite limestone for calcium and other trace minerals or can calcite limestone provide those as the Oyster Shell does?

DankSwag
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
Speaking of rocks hmm specifically crushed shell oyster shell that would be calcium carbonate... supposed to have good Cal to Mg? ratio as to not lock up soil with extra magnesium? Anywise who has used powered Oyster shell that dissolves in water with container gardening? I understand some type of debate with dolomite lime verses a calcite lime?

DankSwag
 
foreverflyhi

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
DANKSWAG said:
Speaking of rocks hmm specifically crushed shell oyster shell that would be calcium carbonate... supposed to have good Cal to Mg? ratio as to not lock up soil with extra magnesium? Anywise who has used powered Oyster shell that dissolves in water with container gardening? I understand some type of debate with dolomite lime verses a calcite lime?

DankSwag
Click to expand...

Im sure some one else will bring more scientific researhc to the table, but from my understanding, dolmite takes much longer then oyster to actually start doing its magic,
On the other hand oystershell and other rich organics in cal mag works quicker and works in cunjuction with all the other goodies we put in our soil, not to mention ph adjusting.

my soil is about 1 year old and i used a little dolmite because thats what i had at the time, i also used oystershell and i havent had a problem, i say since ive been using this ROLS soil, i top dress with oyster/egg about once a month, some what lightly, probley less the half cup. And when i do a "heavy tea" about once every other month, ill add some oystershell, seems to dissolve well.
 
RedCarpetMatches

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
DANKSWAG said:
Speaking of rocks hmm specifically crushed shell oyster shell that would be calcium carbonate... supposed to have good Cal to Mg? ratio as to not lock up soil with extra magnesium? Anywise who has used powered Oyster shell that dissolves in water with container gardening? I understand some type of debate with dolomite lime verses a calcite lime?

DankSwag
Click to expand...
Here's a great recipe from CC:
The problem with Dolomite Lime (specifically) is manifested on several levels - not the least of which is the time required for this mineral compound to degrade which has to happen for the Calcium (Ca) to become available for CE (cation exchange). Then there's the issue with the ratio of Magnesium (Mg) to Calcium (Ca) - it's completely out of whack, i.e. the Mg levels are way too high.


Here's a mix you can put together at Home Depot for chump-change: Lily Miller Super Sweet (Limestone - Calcium Carbonate) and Gypsum and you want to buy the Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) in the garden department and NOT in the home repair department - two different forms of Gypsum.


Here's the recipe:


2x Limestone
1x Gypsum


Mix thoroughly and apply at the same rate you do/did with Dolomite Lime. Now you have elemental Calcium (Ca), Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) and Sulfur which will partially be converted to Sulfuric Acid which is necessary to deconstruct these mineral compounds making them available to the plant's roots.


Note: You could replace the Limestone with either Oyster Shell Powder (pure Calcium Carbonate) or Agricultural Lime (aka Calcite Lime) which is also a pure form of Calcium Carbonate. But the above recipe will get you the benefits you're looking for in a liming agent.
 
foreverflyhi

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
GreenSanta said:
I have calmag def, can I just mix gypsum with water and at what rate? Thanks
Click to expand...
Whats the best way too solve greensantas problem? Sucks to here u have this problem, how long has it been happening? Strange, ive never teally seen a calmag problem in ROLS..

if adding thru water doesnt work, can he recycle or compost the soil with gypsum and lime?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top