nute def.? or what? please help!
- Thread starter Greensea
- Start date
reddiamond
Well-Known Member
After reading what Doer said why would you want to?
I asked the question and he answered it, i questioned his answer and he gave me a way to find out for myself ..... i will be buying hydroton and doing 50/50 with coco when i set it up
reddiamond
Well-Known Member
If you want to feed multple times a day then yes but if you only want to feed once a day or every other day then use perlite, vermiculite mix or just straight coco.
Doer
Well-Known Member
Well, almost. Just straight coco has to be watered. It is inert.
And what is the very best? Can you grow anything?
Doer
Well-Known Member
Go slow, get roots in a solo cup first, just wet cal/mag coir for a week. No extra water unless falling over.Thnx guys!
Cant wait new growJust started a mother plant (Medical strain Royal Higness) i will take clones from her to put in new grow.
Think im gonna try coco/hydroton mix with timed drip system with 3 clones.
And remember, you are also flushing, each time, so I let it run for a while after, it begins to come out the bottom.
It's all there in my journal.
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
I thought they quite making hydroton?
reddiamond
Well-Known Member
Did you mean has to be fed, just water in an inert medium will not grow healthy plants
When i said every other day i meant if the coco was still very moist the next day then it can be left for 2 days until next feeding.I have no idea what the very best is as i'm still a newbie but yes i can grow, look at my avatar
reddiamond
Well-Known Member
Sort of but there are replacements available
However, we have 5 alternatives to present to our customers today:
[h=3]#1 Hydropebbles:[/h]Item # 714120. Of the qualifying alternatives Hydropebbles, our new trademarked brand name, is the most similar to the traditional Hydroton we are all used to. Its overall size, shape, consistency and feel are very similar to Hydroton. However, while Hydroton had a rusty red color to it, Hydropebbles are more brownish in color appearance. It will be available in all warehouse locations in 1-2 weeks. We are using the same product item number as Hydroton. Pricing is identical to Hydroton by location. The bag size is 50L (please be aware our competitors bag size is 45L), the bags are clear. The weight per bag is 55lbs and the bags per pallet is 50 (Hydroton was 30).
[HR][/HR][h=3]#2 Gold Label Brand Hydrocorn[/h]Formerly called Gold Label Hydro Korrels. Item # 713750. These clay pebbles come from Holland and have the very similar rusty red color appearance as Hydroton. This media has a more varied shape than Hydroton which some have reported as favorable due to its ability to interlock.
[HR][/HR][h=3]#3 Gold Label Brand Custom 80/20 Mix[/h]
[HR][/HR][h=3]#4 Hydrolite By Botanicare[/h]This new media comes in 2 sizes as indicated below and can be used successfully as a stand alone media as well as to amend other soil and hydroponic mediums. Made in the USA.
- Improves aeration and is highly porous.
- 70% silicate and does not float.
- Retains nutrients and is reusable.
- Nutrient charged to balance CEC.
Greensea
Well-Known Member
OK ... can i start clones (mother is now 3 day old seedling in soil) till rooting in a Root riot under dome than when rooted put in a coco small cup and than change it (when need) to a bigger pot coco / hydroton mix ending with aprox 4 gal pot?
I intendet to feed them by dripping ring with Canna coco A+B with atm unknow scheduler , I'll keep checking how the moisture is to correct situation...
Doer
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I just bought big bag of hydrocorn. Same thing, but better really. Hydroton was round and smooth like marbles. These are more irregular shaped.
Transplant is the art of growing roots. And I was surprised to find that over grown root circling is not good. And we know in general, that roots given too much water, get lazy and don't work well, can easily drown, etc.
So, the idea is about the available water vs size of the plant. If a tiny plant is in a big pot, the medium has too much water available to interest the roots in going anywhere.
What I find is that it is about 10 days, in 8oz of coir, in a cup. But that is after you get some rooting in your plugs. Then I put the 8 oz size root ball in a 6 inch azalea cup. These cups have very slanted sides, designed for transplant. Don't make the mistake I did, drown this new root cup.
In fact, I have a spray, with BI and rooting hormone. I spray the Crumble well but not heavy, and some light spray on the root ball, and into the cup.
This part seems fast. They will need one balanced feeding the day after transplant at 140 ppm. This is also when I apply 2 shots of UAN-28, lawn food, spray I make up @ 150 PPM, 3 days apart. (Remember, I have been at this for 2 years of experiments)
It is only a week max in the azalea cup, for me. I have a schedule to keep. I did one experiment where I left a pair in the azalea cups for 3 weeks and postponed the daily feeding, for 2 weeks. Oh they are fine. But, the ones I began feeding after only 2 weeks of rooting and not 4, are 50% larger.
My final container is 2.5 gal rose bucket. And they are in that for 14 weeks, til harvest. I don't need a big pot, I am only vegging for 8 weeks.
So, in the first part of the first month, I get roots. The next I feed, 240, the next month I have worked to 340 ppm. That's 8 weeks. Time to move them under the HPS, and increase feed gradually to 400 - 420 ppm.
Transplant is the art of growing roots. And I was surprised to find that over grown root circling is not good. And we know in general, that roots given too much water, get lazy and don't work well, can easily drown, etc.
So, the idea is about the available water vs size of the plant. If a tiny plant is in a big pot, the medium has too much water available to interest the roots in going anywhere.
What I find is that it is about 10 days, in 8oz of coir, in a cup. But that is after you get some rooting in your plugs. Then I put the 8 oz size root ball in a 6 inch azalea cup. These cups have very slanted sides, designed for transplant. Don't make the mistake I did, drown this new root cup.
In fact, I have a spray, with BI and rooting hormone. I spray the Crumble well but not heavy, and some light spray on the root ball, and into the cup.
This part seems fast. They will need one balanced feeding the day after transplant at 140 ppm. This is also when I apply 2 shots of UAN-28, lawn food, spray I make up @ 150 PPM, 3 days apart. (Remember, I have been at this for 2 years of experiments)
It is only a week max in the azalea cup, for me. I have a schedule to keep. I did one experiment where I left a pair in the azalea cups for 3 weeks and postponed the daily feeding, for 2 weeks. Oh they are fine. But, the ones I began feeding after only 2 weeks of rooting and not 4, are 50% larger.
My final container is 2.5 gal rose bucket. And they are in that for 14 weeks, til harvest. I don't need a big pot, I am only vegging for 8 weeks.
So, in the first part of the first month, I get roots. The next I feed, 240, the next month I have worked to 340 ppm. That's 8 weeks. Time to move them under the HPS, and increase feed gradually to 400 - 420 ppm.
reddiamond
Well-Known Member
Is that on the .5 or .7 scale?
I know with multiple waterings per day i would have to drop the nute strength as i run around 950ppm @ .7 (1.3EC) in flowering when fed once per day.
Doer
Well-Known Member
I always use .5 to make it easy. I think that is the RIU standard.
And hey, I hear of guys really feeding heavy, so I ask. How tall? 6 ft? I see. All a matter of biomass, and how soon you can begin a regular feeding.
The way I do this in inert medium is with a turkey baster. It is a little trick I pickup up from somewhere.
You know what went in. You want to compare that to what is coming out. But when? After it has run though for a couple of minutes? No. I expect that to be the same. When it first begins to flow? No. There can be some salt concentrations. When?
I sample as soon as the flow has been established. That is maybe 3-4 seconds after the beginning. And that tells me if I am over or under feeding.
Output is higher ppm = overfeeding. plant is taking water and leaving feed
Output is lower ppm = underfeeding. plant is sucking up the feed out of the water
So, under the doctrine of constant, lighter feeding There is only one thing to adjust.
Underfed = add another feed time
Overfed = subtract a feed time (from once a day, back to every other day, etc)
And hey, I hear of guys really feeding heavy, so I ask. How tall? 6 ft? I see. All a matter of biomass, and how soon you can begin a regular feeding.
The way I do this in inert medium is with a turkey baster.
It is a little trick I pickup up from somewhere.You know what went in. You want to compare that to what is coming out. But when? After it has run though for a couple of minutes? No. I expect that to be the same. When it first begins to flow? No. There can be some salt concentrations. When?
I sample as soon as the flow has been established. That is maybe 3-4 seconds after the beginning. And that tells me if I am over or under feeding.
Output is higher ppm = overfeeding. plant is taking water and leaving feed
Output is lower ppm = underfeeding. plant is sucking up the feed out of the water
So, under the doctrine of constant, lighter feeding There is only one thing to adjust.
Underfed = add another feed time
Overfed = subtract a feed time (from once a day, back to every other day, etc)
Greensea
Well-Known Member
Ok thnx all!
Think i learned alot this round Seems all fine at this point. Cant wait to try in coco/hydroton mix
Harvested 3 of my ladies @ day 50 from seed. They are drying atm...
Still 5 in soil rdy in about 1 week...
I continue here:
https://www.rollitup.org/auto-flowering-strains/775850-2x300wchinese-led-400w-hps-dwc.html
Think i learned alot this round
Seems all fine at this point. Cant wait to try in coco/hydroton mix Harvested 3 of my ladies @ day 50 from seed. They are drying atm...
Still 5 in soil rdy in about 1 week...
I continue here:
https://www.rollitup.org/auto-flowering-strains/775850-2x300wchinese-led-400w-hps-dwc.html