Only if ambient fresh air intake temps are low enough.Once you attach ducting,carbon ,and make bends in ducting the fan will suffer pressure losses,so a 4" 170cfm inline will not move 170cfm once ductin and carbon filter and bends in ducting are attached.
Carbon filters usuall account for up to a 25% pressure loss,90° bends in ducting can also add up to a 25% pressure loss.
6" 440cfm inline centrifugal with a can33 or can50 sized carbon filter will do the trick depending on ambient/fresh intake air temp.
This graph will tell you tge effective airflow (after all pressure losses) that you'll need to keep the temp in tent during lights on so many degrees above ambient temp...
Nite the line that denotes a 400w HID.Then figure out how many degrees above ambient temp you want your tent to be during lights on by looking at the tdiff at the bottom of the graph.Follow the tdiff line up to the axis it meets the line for the 400w HID.Follow that axis to the side that will tell you the effective airflow rating (after pressure losses) that you'll need in order to have a lights on tdiff in the tent.
In example my 400w HPS with 4" 170cfm inline centrifugal with 6 feet of 4" ducting and no bend in the ducting,no carbon filter gives me about 150cfm effective airflow after pressure losses so I see a 10° to 12°F tdiff lights on in tent above ambient.So in order to keep my lights on temp in the tent between 75 and 80°F my ambient/fresh air intake temps neef to be kept between 64°F and 68°F
Here's a great thread to read up on...
Ventilation 101
