cooling 5x2 closet

almightyfinesse

almightyfinesse

Active Member
i have a 400 watt hps air cooled hood in a 5x2 closet and i need help with cooling it because temperature are like 100 in there.i was planning to have a 4 inch hole at the bottom of the door with a inline fan and a ducting to take hot air out of the closet,then have a 6 inch inline fan on the side of the air cooled hood and a 6 inch ducting to the other side going to the ceiling so the heat from the light bulb goes to the attic.im also having one or two fans in the closet for the plants to get fresh air,is this a good setup for good air ventilation.

im planning on using these fans http://www.lowes.com/pd_234523-1061-DB204_0__?productId=3089849 http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=185009-1061-DB206&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3089845&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
 
rwbrock

rwbrock

Active Member
IMG_0071.JPGIMG_0070.JPGphoto 1.JPGI would not recommend those fans wont move enough air. You need a "inline" fan those are just duct booster fans. I had 400 in closet with vented hood 180 cfm inline fan and it worked pretty well. I ducted from filter to hood ducted to fan and exhausted in the attic. Just used a passive intake. You should try that first....
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
u want to do this on the cheap

or do u want to do it right


on the cheap
4 inch fan is 100 cfms that is crap with a open HPS or MH ..............the cheapest fan that would have any effect in the way u want would be the 6 inch booster at 240 cfms
as for the passive hole u need to get a extra copy of the door u are about to modifiy (why if u are renting u put that door in take the one u modified and get your deposit back...second if the person that owns comes in and sees what u did they will bitch u can say no no no i took your door off and used my own when i leave yours will be on it)

to modify it get near the bottom of the door move up one inch maybe 2inches now u make a 12x12 hole square .........in any home improvement store they have 12x12 filters ........grade 1 3 5 6 7 9 10 .........u want grade 9 or 10 that will clean the air nicely for the plants including smoke 20 bucks every 90 days
on the inside of the door u need to make a catch/backing so u put the filter in it stops there and then just duct tape it in to seal it (u should feel a nice air flow being sucked in ) make sure u look at the filter there is a air flow directional arrow it does matter


now the 6 inch booster fan this needs to be in the middle of the area as best as u can (the light should be right under it ) this will be the most effective heat removly u can get instead of spreading out when it hits the roof and rolls back down the wall ( smoke acts like hot air) it will drawl the heat strait out as it flows up

last bit for the modify on the cheap u need a clip on fan in the area that moves the air flow pattern .........it should be as close if not directly infront of the intake to get the most effect from it this should also help to increase the intake just little ....................now u have to play with the temps in the house/apartment .........try setting the temp at 67 ...........if i done it correctly it should be 82 85

to do correctly

1 u need a 6 inch air cooled hood .........your ballast should plug right in just match the plug ...bulb is e39 mongel go right in
2 u need a 400cfm inline fan .......yes over kill but this accounts for unseen varibles later
3 u need to order a varible speed controller for the fan .........controls the speed at the fan goes so the cfms to hot turn full power to cool lower power lowering cfms
4 do the door modify from cheap answer
 
almightyfinesse

almightyfinesse

Active Member
rwbrock

rwbrock

Active Member
Good info on the vent 101 Cracker! I believe he is talking about booster fans per the link. Sounds like the hood has a 6" hole so 6" fan and ducting is what he would need. Almighty you have a hydro store? Check online Amazon they will have filter fan combos too. Also might want to look into speed controller. What are the ambient temps in this room where the closet is? That will play a big factor, if your removing hot air from bulb/hood and closet you will be pulling in air from that room to cool. So if it is 80 in that room your closet is going to by however many degrees over that.
 
almightyfinesse

almightyfinesse

Active Member
justugh said:
u want to do this on the cheap

or do u want to do it right


on the cheap
4 inch fan is 100 cfms that is crap with a open HPS or MH ..............the cheapest fan that would have any effect in the way u want would be the 6 inch booster at 240 cfms
as for the passive hole u need to get a extra copy of the door u are about to modifiy (why if u are renting u put that door in take the one u modified and get your deposit back...second if the person that owns comes in and sees what u did they will bitch u can say no no no i took your door off and used my own when i leave yours will be on it)

to modify it get near the bottom of the door move up one inch maybe 2inches now u make a 12x12 hole square .........in any home improvement store they have 12x12 filters ........grade 1 3 5 6 7 9 10 .........u want grade 9 or 10 that will clean the air nicely for the plants including smoke 20 bucks every 90 days
on the inside of the door u need to make a catch/backing so u put the filter in it stops there and then just duct tape it in to seal it (u should feel a nice air flow being sucked in ) make sure u look at the filter there is a air flow directional arrow it does matter


now the 6 inch booster fan this needs to be in the middle of the area as best as u can (the light should be right under it ) this will be the most effective heat removly u can get instead of spreading out when it hits the roof and rolls back down the wall ( smoke acts like hot air) it will drawl the heat strait out as it flows up

last bit for the modify on the cheap u need a clip on fan in the area that moves the air flow pattern .........it should be as close if not directly infront of the intake to get the most effect from it this should also help to increase the intake just little ....................now u have to play with the temps in the house/apartment .........try setting the temp at 67 ...........if i done it correctly it should be 82 85

to do correctly

1 u need a 6 inch air cooled hood .........your ballast should plug right in just match the plug ...bulb is e39 mongel go right in
2 u need a 400cfm inline fan .......yes over kill but this accounts for unseen varibles later
3 u need to order a varible speed controller for the fan .........controls the speed at the fan goes so the cfms to hot turn full power to cool lower power lowering cfms
4 do the door modify from cheap answer
Click to expand...
should the 6 inch booster fan be hook up to the air cooled hood instead of where you said to have it? and also i think i should make the hole at the bottom of the door and make the fan to blow out so air can be taking out of the closet not blowing in the closet,i will also get a fan to move the air around closet
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
if u have a air cooled hood yes ..........if it is a open reflector then in the center of the area

if your hood is running hot have it infront of the hood pushing the air tho the hood then tho the ducting up to your attic (the fans have a maximum run temp so if they get hotter then that they stop working so pushing the air is the fix to that instead of pulling it )


u want the hole at the bottom of the door for the fresh cool air from outside to be sucked in ...........this will help reduce the temps in your area along with supply the plants with the oxygen and CO2 they need

hot air raises and cold sinks .............with the fan blowing tho the hood it should cause a vacum in the room (negitive pressure) and suck in the cool air tho the filter .........this supplies the air for your area (with out need of a fan blowing it in) the fan inside that moves is just to make sure the air is getting evenly applied to the room so u do not have hot spots .........it also helps control the smell during flowering.........u should not smell anything unless the door is open
 
Ou8aCracker2

Ou8aCracker2

Well-Known Member
Ditch the booster fan and get a proper fan,an inline centrifugal exhaust fan...



or Inline mixed flow fan...



Duct booster fans are inefficient because they cannot withstand pressure losses and therefore their airflow rating is greatly reduced once ducting is connected,and even more so when bends are made in the duct run,and even more so when attaching a carbon filter.

 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
do not look at me ........i gave him both answers

the redneck jerry rigged on the cheap .............and the correct way of doing


as a redneck ........i kind of want to see the results from the jerry rigged the math is all correct
 
almightyfinesse

almightyfinesse

Active Member
justugh said:
do not look at me ........i gave him both answers

the redneck jerry rigged on the cheap .............and the correct way of doing


as a redneck ........i kind of want to see the results from the jerry rigged the math is all correct
Click to expand...
what kind of fans should i use for the hole on the door ?
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
almightyfinesse said:
what kind of fans should i use for the hole on the door ?
Click to expand...
none .........this would be a passive system

if u wanted to make a powered intake i would tell u how to build a filter box attach a anouther 6 inch booster then u can run 6 inch ducting into the grow area and use the moving fan set the ducting so it blows right under it up into the path of the fan or right behide it feeding the fan

if u wanted a power intake (do not cut the 12x12 in the door ) u would need a 6 inch round hole to allow ducting in the rest is like this
1 u get a flatrate mailing box one of the 12x12x7 ones (post office they are free large flat rate box )
2 u make the box and cut off the top 4 flaps
3 u spray the box inside with rubber to seal it (flexie seal anything that is spray rubber)
4 u take the 6 inch fan and place it in the middle of the rubberized box and press down to make a circle in cardbord
5 cut out the circle
6 reseal any areas that were damaged
7 in the hole u have made push the 6 inch booster fan tho the back so it is sucking (go passed the ridge on the metal makes a better seal)
8 duct tape the fan to the outside of the box
9 attach the 6 inch ducting to the other side of the ran
10 put it tho the door and seal that
11 get a 12x12x1 filter grade 9 or 10 and place it in the front (duct tape the edges 1/2 on the box other half on the filter this will hold it place and seal up the box so the air passes tho the filter

12 every 90 days replace the filter (or go by the light u see coming from the tent tho the filter when dust and all covers that and hard to see the light time for a new filter even if it before the 90 days) they will run yah between 20 to 16 bucks so it is 80 to 100 bucks a year for clean air for the plants ..........i use it on mine(tent system) since i am a smoker and smoke is bad for the plants

if u are talking about the moving fan inside
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I2MNBA/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it is white
it moves 180 degrees
it clips on .................my method was to get a strip of pine trimming (98 cents) cut it to 5 feet then i duct taped it to a old paintcan (for a counter weight) and i can move the fan up or down so it matched the canopy

only down side to this fan it has a curly cord so might need a extention cord
 
almightyfinesse

almightyfinesse

Active Member
justugh said:
none .........this would be a passive system

if u wanted to make a powered intake i would tell u how to build a filter box attach a anouther 6 inch booster then u can run 6 inch ducting into the grow area and use the moving fan set the ducting so it blows right under it up into the path of the fan or right behide it feeding the fan

if u wanted a power intake (do not cut the 12x12 in the door ) u would need a 6 inch round hole to allow ducting in the rest is like this
1 u get a flatrate mailing box one of the 12x12x7 ones (post office they are free large flat rate box )
2 u make the box and cut off the top 4 flaps
3 u spray the box inside with rubber to seal it (flexie seal anything that is spray rubber)
4 u take the 6 inch fan and place it in the middle of the rubberized box and press down to make a circle in cardbord
5 cut out the circle
6 reseal any areas that were damaged
7 in the hole u have made push the 6 inch booster fan tho the back so it is sucking (go passed the ridge on the metal makes a better seal)
8 duct tape the fan to the outside of the box
9 attach the 6 inch ducting to the other side of the ran
10 put it tho the door and seal that
11 get a 12x12x1 filter grade 9 or 10 and place it in the front (duct tape the edges 1/2 on the box other half on the filter this will hold it place and seal up the box so the air passes tho the filter

12 every 90 days replace the filter (or go by the light u see coming from the tent tho the filter when dust and all covers that and hard to see the light time for a new filter even if it before the 90 days) they will run yah between 20 to 16 bucks so it is 80 to 100 bucks a year for clean air for the plants ..........i use it on mine(tent system) since i am a smoker and smoke is bad for the plants

if u are talking about the moving fan inside
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I2MNBA/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it is white
it moves 180 degrees
it clips on .................my method was to get a strip of pine trimming (98 cents) cut it to 5 feet then i duct taped it to a old paintcan (for a counter weight) and i can move the fan up or down so it matched the canopy

only down side to this fan it has a curly cord so might need a extention cord
Click to expand...
can a 4 inch line fan fit into a 6 inch air cooled hood ?
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Any size duct can be adapted using reducers. That said, run 6" duct and reduce at blower. 4" duct cfm is weak sauce, the 4" centrifugal inline fan will actually outrun the 4" duct cfm wise. No point restricting things.
 
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