Newbie DWC plants seem like they Stopped growing!!

I am new to this and really didn't think it would be this difficult to grow hydroponically. I have a 6 gal res with a variety of strains 9 total in a closet setup, they are under 3 9spectrum LED lights w side lighting, top drip feed system, using spring water, ppms about 940ish, plants are in week 4 veg started from seed. I have so many questions...
Is this really a DWC setup since my roots aren't in the water yet?
Being a newbie I made so many changes close together so hard to narrow my mistakes down...
Been checking temp of air and water in box, humidity levels, etc.
Using flora duo nuts A and B plus cal-mag (thought I had a nutrient deficiency of calcium), snowstorm ultra, vitamino, roots excellurator and today added superthrive as a foliar spray.
Seem to have so many deficiencies but can't fix them, what do I do?

Please any experienced growers info would be greatly appreciated. I've went too far to sit back and lose entire crop.
 

nameno

Well-Known Member
There is a thread on here "Rosemans Bubbleponics" read it it will go dayxday makes it easy.
GL


edit:How's your PH?
 
Will post pics of my best and worst plants and roots. Ph seems to be running high bc I'm using a lot of down lately, auto ph system says ph is 6.24 right now. Heard 6.2 ph in hydro was optimal oxygen intake level....
 
Upon recheck to take pics my ppms are abt 860 and water temp is 69.8, can't seem to get my water temp to the recommended 68 even with a chiller/ water cooler.
 

SableZen

Well-Known Member
Got pics but cant post, tell me how and I am on it. I NEED HELP, PLEASE!! QUICK!!
If you do a quick reply, there is an icon on the toolbar (3rd from the right) to insert a picture. It's kind of quirky but worked the last time I tried. Where/how are you having an issue with posting images?
 

Moishe

Active Member
68*F is ideal? you'll be fine if you hit 80 even. As long as it doesn't stay at 80*. I'd say 66-75*F is your safe zone. If it goes above that you'll be fine as long as it's not sitting around 80*F constantly. Have you used that nutrient setup before? Stick to something simple. Save yourself headache/heartbreak and buy 1 product line as opposed to mixing a bunch. You probably have too much of one nutrient while lacking in others. Just get a simple A&B and follow the manufacturer's recommended feed chart. Also, slowly adjust the pH to 6.0 (you can probably do this drop by drop with get-down in a 6-gal res., then slowly bring it down to 5.8 over the next day. Your pH is a little too high for proper phosphorous uptake, but dropping your pH too rapidly could shock the plants. Also, get those pictures up, some people on here will be able to tell you pretty accurately what is wrong with your plant just from what's going on with your leaves.
Are your stems purpling at all? If they are then it could be the fact that you're lacking phosphorous or your root zone temps are a bit too low.
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
1) ph is too high. I would try to keep @ 5.8. Vegging plants appreciate some acidity. Bump the ph up a point or two after pre flower.

2) check your roots for algae. If there is algae growing and choking your roots it can look like a ph/nute deficiency. (Usually causes yellowing in the tops and stunts growth. If this is the case put 15ml of regular hydrogen peroxide PER gallon of water. It will only remain effective for an hour or two so id suggest dosing once in the morning and once in the evening. If your fertilizer has organics in it the hydrogen peroxide will kill it as well so you may want to change out nutrients.

3) PPM too high. I've grown many plants and unless you've grown a strain before and know it likes heavy feeding, try lowering your dose to around 600'sh. 900 is what I usually feed my girls late flower. Also keep in mind plants get food immediately from foliar feeding so if you have a high ppm, and your foliar feeding, the plant may just want water to hydrate. If the poems are too high it will drink less water than it needs to keep from over feeding.

4) have you recently changed type of lighting? Light distance from canopy? Etc? Especially going from blue to red, or say moving from a t5 to hos, it can shock your plants for a week or two.

5) remember with hydro it takes 3-4 days to see problems in the growth, so try and remember what you did the week previous.


Post some pics and I will try figure it out for ya.


Ps. Mixing different nutrient lines can be tricky. Rule of thumb for me is when adding a new supplement, keep everything at half strength first res change and see how things react.
 

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
68 is too warm for res temp, . I usually keep mine in the 50's . It keeps out the nasties and helps to keep ph stable.
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
Here is a basic rundown of my hydro levels. Unless the plant is picky this should be a good guideline.

Ph: 5.6-5.8 (veg)
5.8-6.0 (flower)

Temps: 76-81°F @ canopy
68-75°F in shade
58-72° H2O TEMP

Nutrients: 1.0-1.5 ec for veg (600-900ppm)
1.4-1.8 ec for flower (850-1200ppm)




Ps. If u do have algae, use some panda film or black trash bags or anything to block light from your nutrients!

Hooe some of this will help. Feel free to PM me anytime
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
Upon recheck to take pics my ppms are abt 860 and water temp is 69.8, can't seem to get my water temp to the recommended 68 even with a chiller/ water cooler.
If you have an inline fan you can put your air pump in front of it. The fast air flow will cool your electric motor that runs it and drop your water temp 5-10 degrees
 

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
You can add abottle of frozen water to res to keep temp down.
I ended up co.nverting a cooler into a res for the same reason. I use a cooler for both my flood n drain system and my dwc. Works great.
 
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