cutting problems

john0i0

Member
so i got four rainbow kush clones and one purple urkle clone. they were brought from oklahoma to colorado after taking root. i have them in DWC pots with dewey misters. they under an 1000 watt OG hood, about two feet between plants and light. i am using the mills nute line. ppm is 300 ph is 6.0. i have never had this problem before. could my problem be due to stress from transporting or could it be underfeeding. to me, all the signs point to underfeeding because the roots still have not popped out of the rockwool, and the dewey misters spurt water at the base. so i think that the plant is not absorbing adequate amounts of water and nutes. pla help!!!! i have looked all through my diagnoses guide and have found nothing similiar.
 

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Cascadian

Well-Known Member
I have no experience with DWC but plenty with clones. I would trim off the really nasty looking leaves and trim back the yellowing ones. The plant is working hard trying to support them. Looks like they are not under a humidity dome, try to raise the humidity. Keep temps above 75, a warm root zone help them root but being in DWC, I can't give advice on that one.
 

john0i0

Member
cascadian, thank you so much for replying! yeah im struggling with humidity. it is at 32 percent, an that is with two humidifiers. these plants are use to the humid OK air, and now there in CO, which is a drastic change in RH. i considered that as one of the problems. can u give me any advice on a way to build a humidity done over 2 gallon DWC buckets? if u need more pixs to make a goid decesion let me know! and again thank you so much for your input
 

garden11

Active Member
I've been quite succsessfull with cutting latly, and my techniqe is for soil and quite simple. 1. It needs 3 nodes 2. Cut it at 45 degree angle and straigth into a shotglass so water covers from the last node down. 3. After 2 days, put it in a small soil container, and keep that soil waterd once a day.

I trim the yellow and dieing off the clones, as it progresses. These dieing leaves are getting their juice sucked up by the plant, and shouldnt be cut too early. I wait until its completly yellow.

I never give the clones any foilage feed. (spraying with water) Spraying them with water, does you no favors. It must get all its water needs from the stem. It tells the plant to make roots. My expirience shows me that foilar feeding slows down the rooting process, and lets the plant drink from its leaves instead of stem.

Usually i get a 90% survival rate. I have a humidity of 35-45 % in my vegetive/cloning area. I wanted to let you know how i do it, so you can have an idea for your self on how you should go about fixxing your issues. Not all advice given on this forums are helpful.


Your clones looks too wet btw..
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
Been away for the weekend, sorry man. I think the only good way would be to build a simple frame over them and cover it with clear plastic. They might do ok by just misting them 2-3 times a day too. Trimming the leaves back will help them focus on root growth.

Good luck
 

john0i0

Member
so is it normal for old growth to die off in the first stsges after cloning? btw thanks for the replies guys! hey cascadian , garden 11 said misting the leaves is bad during the time where roots need to be established, do u agree? i have been misting because my humidity is at 30 percent and i feel like getting that moistire to the leaves will help. garden 11 have you seen your clones suffer from root production because foliar spraying. btw im not using nutes in my foliar spray.
 

john0i0

Member
annnd!! cascadian, will cutting off the yellow leaves stunt the growth an root production considering there so young?? im probably wrong but i would like to know what you think
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
What you are trying to do is keep them healthy while they root. If they are wilting consistently then they need hydration, either high humidity or spray them to raise humidity. They need to be "forced" to search for water but they also need to be hydrated enough to survive the process... There is some intuition involved IMO.

NO, cutting off the yellow and/or decaying leaves will not stunt them relative to how fast they would grow/root if you don't trim the leaves... They do not need much light while rooting and they do not need a lot of vegetative mass either. If you want to risk them dieing and have the upside of more leaf mass when they root that is your call, if you want to ensure that they root and you keep the genetics, then you should trim the leaves and make sure the humidity is higher. Once they root they will put any "lost" trimmed leaf mass back on very quickly. If it was me I would trim them back and make sure they root properly...
 

john0i0

Member
awsome thanks man!! yeah there rooting great. they have massive beautiful tap roots coming out of the net pots. there looking like they should as far as roots, but the vegetative growth is just shitty looking. i did trim the dead leaves so ill see how things turn out. and there not wilting at all, but the humidity is still maxing out at 35 percent, so i guess ill get another humidifier. thank you so much for your help. ill let you know how it turns out. these rainbow kushes are a beautiful strain with a super couch lock high. so i have to keep the genetics
 

john0i0

Member
hey cascadian, wanted to let you know i cut those dead leaves off, flushed for three days and because of that, realized they were suffering from a magnesium deffeciency and also from stress from transporting. there blowing up know. roots are two feet long at least . thank you so much for the help bro.
 

jaybray

Member
hey cascadian, wanted to let you know i cut those dead leaves off, flushed for three days and because of that, realized they were suffering from a magnesium deffeciency and also from stress from transporting. there blowing up know. roots are two feet long at least . thank you so much for the help bro.
Im guessing purple stems mag def. edit caused by to much nitrogen. It was the mother you took them from. Easy fix is vitamin B.Thiamine (Vitamin B1):
B1 is produced in the foliage of plants and transported down to the root system where it has an effect on root growth and development. In tissue culture and rooting preparations, B1 helps to stimulate the growth of roots on new plants but this is best used in combination with rooting hormones. B1 can assist at any time in a plant's life with root regeneration where the root system has been damaged or stressed through high salinity, pathogens such as pythium, nutrient deficiencies and toxicities, high fruit loading etc but only if the foliage of the plant is unable to produce sufficient supplies for this purpose. Use of B1 is seen as a 'back up' or 'insurance policy' as it is difficult to determine if a plant which has come under stress is capable of producing sufficient B1 to send down to the root system to assist in cell development. Use of Vitamin B1 in plants is the same as in humans - it is most useful where a deficiency exists for some reason. B1 is best applied as a seed soak to speed up germination (root growth), or as a foliar spray. B1 is an organic compound and as such is rapidly broken down by microbes in the nutrient solution (they love to eat carbon based compounds), adding high amounts of B1 may ensure sufficient thiamine stays in the nutrient for a few hours for some plant uptake, but generally microbes will break this down rapidly as well.http://www.quickgrow.com/gardening_articles/plant_hormones.html
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
Magnesium deficiency cannot result in lockout Jaybray, it is the other way around.

Just for clarification purple stems can be anything from over-fert (causing nute lock-out), to a lack of N, Mg, or P.


John, really glad the clones made it. Happy to help, nice work...
 

Gifted0ne

Member
What you are trying to do is keep them healthy while they root. If they are wilting consistently then they need hydration, either high humidity or spray them to raise humidity. They need to be "forced" to search for water but they also need to be hydrated enough to survive the process... There is some intuition involved IMO.

NO, cutting off the yellow and/or decaying leaves will not stunt them relative to how fast they would grow/root if you don't trim the leaves... They do not need much light while rooting and they do not need a lot of vegetative mass either. If you want to risk them dieing and have the upside of more leaf mass when they root that is your call, if you want to ensure that they root and you keep the genetics, then you should trim the leaves and make sure the humidity is higher. Once they root they will put any "lost" trimmed leaf mass back on very quickly. If it was me I would trim them back and make sure they root properly...
This info is incorrect.. Go to http://www.skunklabshc.com and read through the CloneTek Cloning Tutorial page. I copied this add from their facebook.
View attachment 3033681
 

*BUDS

Well-Known Member


Thanks for that bro, I was about to have a lay down and now Im afraid I will have nightmares after seeing this butt ugly plant.
Anyway the mother was shit and now its a battle for the cutting to shake mums issues. It should grow out of it in time. Next time have a healthier mother plant.
 

Gifted0ne

Member
Thanks for that bro, I was about to have a lay down and now Im afraid I will have nightmares after seeing this butt ugly plant.
Anyway the mother was shit and now its a battle for the cutting to shake mums issues. It should grow out of it in time. Next time have a healthier mother plant.
I've taken cutting from plants in poor health, a super healthy mother isnt going to stop this problem you have. That's caused by the grower the ph is likley way off or your feeding it way too high ppm's and possible really unbalanced nutrient formula. At this stage of grow you can pretty much just use CloneTek and ResClear by skunk labs horticulture ( u can use dutchmaster zone in place of ResClear) with 100-200 ppm of nutrients.. It doesnt matter what the mother looked like with right ph 5.5-5.9 for early growth it will be in perfect health.
 

Cascadian

Well-Known Member
Ok, so we take clones then put in 63 degree room, no misting, and whatever other b.s. was on that commercial you posted and expect good results. My guess is that commercial wasn't even done with MJ. But thanks for the follow up additional product plugs, I will go right out and buy them all!

The info I posted was exactly correct. And btw the OP followed my advice and saved his clones. Go ahead tell me what is incorrect and how to address it otherwise. Did you even catch that these were taken then transported from OK to CO.

Anybody (especially newbies) that reads this should skip any advice "giftedone" gives IMO.
 

Gifted0ne

Member
Ok, so we take clones then put in 63 degree room, no misting, and whatever other b.s. was on that commercial you posted and expect good results. My guess is that commercial wasn't even done with MJ. But thanks for the follow up additional product plugs, I will go right out and buy them all!

The info I posted was exactly correct. And btw the OP followed my advice and saved his clones. Go ahead tell me what is incorrect and how to address it otherwise. Did you even catch that these were taken then transported from OK to CO.

Anybody (especially newbies) that reads this should skip any advice "giftedone" gives IMO.
That was an ad that was an experiment by that company for CloneTek not a how to, if u go to their site the info page has a tutorial on how to clone.. skunklabshc.com .. They actually know what they are doing unlike you.

They sent me a sample of clonetek as the first product ive tried from them, it worked as advertised and better then anything else ive used.

I cut up a few small vegging plants all the way and filled up a clone tray just used the clontek only and put it in the veg room with no dome and didn't mist it. they all rooted super quick and the roots were thick and white and leaves all stayed green. didnt even trim any of the foliage.. so either ur info is incorrect or their product is just more advanced wat ever.
 
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