Ditch the glass/aircool

TexasHank

TexasHank

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone said:
Running cooled lighting in a room with co2 and air conditioning requires getting your air for venting hoods from another area. If your getting unconditioned air from outdoors then there are times your hoods will be cooled with air that is too hot or too cool (condensation).

If you condition this air you may as well just remove the heat from the lighting, loose the complex blower ductwork.

In short, if youe scale is large and thieving conditioned air from another area of your home simply conditioning the air to remove the heat is more efficient. Add to this the fact your still not pulling all the humidity so will need dehumidification.
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While your condensation bit makes a tiny bit of sense.. I have never run into that problem before.. Pulling outdoor air as low as 10 degrees and as high as 110 degrees... never seen that problem..

There is an extremely simple explanation why condensation has never been an issue.. The fact that you don't know it and you are a "cannabis growing consultant" is pretty hilarious.

Anyone who hires a cannabis growing consultant though... serves them right... haha. funny.
 
TexasHank

TexasHank

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
OK, lets see here. Quality light meter. 2 of the exact same hoods (Blockbuster 6"s). One with no glass. 1K watt bulbs, both changed to new. The actual measured difference in lumins comes out to only 4% +/- .5% at 18" from glass (bottom of the hood). Borosilicate glass is the glass used in the hoods we use, due to it's heat tolerance. BTW the glass will reduce UV lighting below the 400nm range a lot! But the spectrum seen by the eye is not by any real meaningful amount overall.
Learn about it here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass
Now then, as I take readings at differing distance's from the glass. The usable light drops at almost a exponential rate! So then. One MUST deduct that;
A: The difference between glass in and glass out is not worth the exchange in cooling needs in an enclosed environment.
B: That increasing the distance between the plant canopy and the lighting will reduce the OVERALL effectiveness of the lighting. Thus you would require more lighting to obtain the same result closer in.
The picture of the large grow is NOT done the way I do mine.....I run cooled lighting for the ease in temp control. I run side lighting on TALL (10-12ft) plants to have them reach their true potential (these are not cooled and DO effect temps control) ! The average plant height is 6 ft and are topped, Super cropped and lolly popped for overall light yield and light effectiveness. The farther you get your lights from your canopy. The taller more lanky and longer internodal spacing problems you get!!!!

Tex, it may have had a minimal effect on your grow....BUT, like was said earlier. You did not do it side by side with the same age clones from a single mother/strain. Therefor, you can not compare one grow to another with any science to back up your claim.

How many posts did you put in this thread anyway? Are you simply padding your post #'s?
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Once again.. you assume that less is always more..

Again.. a common misconception amongst MJ growers..
 
linky

linky

Well-Known Member
I think the problem you had before was you were not getting a good enough spread of light because you were trying to put your lights to close because you could with a glass air cooled hood. You were getting intense light in a small area instead of getting a more even spread of light over all your plants. Now you have raised your light and the light will have a much better foot print/spread. So based on what you are saying, if you were to swap out your high up in the air 600's with high up in the air 1000's, you would not increase yield, density or crystal on your buds? All that is really important is light is all over the place now? I disagree completely. Your results improved because of other factors, possibly because of what I had already mentioned. I started my grow with 8 600 watts in adjust a wings... I dealt with the heat using a 24k mini split.. but I eventually switched to 6 1k's in raptor air cooled hoods, I keep the glass about 24" above the canopy. Under the 1ks the density improved and the trichs increased significantly as well as yield.
 
TexasHank

TexasHank

Well-Known Member
Do yourself a favor.. go ask an old lady in your neighborhood a thing or two about growing plants.. forget everything you know.. then listen to what the old lady has to say.

good luck.
 
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TexasHank

TexasHank

Well-Known Member
linky said:
I think the problem you had before was you were not getting a good enough spread of light because you were trying to put your lights to close because you could with a glass air cooled hood. You were getting intense light in a small area instead of getting a more even spread of light over all your plants. Now you have raised your light and the light will have a much better foot print/spread. So based on what you are saying, if you were to swap out your high up in the air 600's with high up in the air 1000's, you would not increase yield, density or crystal on your buds? All that is really important is light is all over the place now? I disagree completely. Your results improved because of other factors, possibly because of what I had already mentioned. I started my grow with 8 600 watts in adjust a wings... I dealt with the heat using a 24k mini split.. but I eventually switched to 6 1k's in raptor air cooled hoods, I keep the glass about 24" above the canopy. Under the 1ks the density improved and the trichs increased significantly as well as yield.
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most of what you are saying here is what I am saying as well..

There is a whole lot of bullshit to dig through here.. so... im not surprised that you missed it.

As far as your quality and yield upgrade with the light change..
It is FAR more likely that your improvements were due to a more balanced difference between your intake air and flowering room temp. It makes a huge difference and is something you don't really hear about around here.

You achieved a better balance between your intake air and flower room temp when you went aircool.. there are other ways to achieve this.. but aircool is one of them.

Im not running your room, so, im not going to try and tell you i know better than you.. but.. i would bet the farm this was the cause of your increase.

cold temp air blowing over plants in a warm room is not something that makes happy plants.. they want an even temp blown over them and surrounding them.
 
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Royal Blue

Royal Blue

Active Member
TexasHank said:
While your condensation bit makes a tiny bit of sense.. I have never run into that problem before.. Pulling outdoor air as low as 10 degrees and as high as 110 degrees... never seen that problem..

There is an extremely simple explanation why condensation has never been an issue.. The fact that you don't know it and you are a "cannabis growing consultant" is pretty hilarious.

Anyone who hires a cannabis growing consultant though... serves them right... haha. funny.
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When you pull cold air through your warm hood your going to get condensation
unless there is no moisture in your grow room which I think is highly unlikely
so quit spreading bs.
 
TexasHank

TexasHank

Well-Known Member
Blue isn't so good with words, so, he likes to use pictures.. haha. poor guy

This was fun for a minute but now it's just getting stupid.
 
TexasHank

TexasHank

Well-Known Member
I repeated the results..

The light that was up higher had a more consistent space full of buds..

The lower buds are not any less dense, less numbered, or smaller in size..

The whole "not enough lights on the lower buds" thing.. it is a misconception.. I get it.. it is a simple way to explain a problem in a garden.. but it is not correct.

That said.. having the lights down lower did not necessarily have a huge negative impact.. it just did not offer any benefits.. The only real benefit I saw to higher lights was no bleached tips.. lower canopy temps.. top buds were more uniformly nug shaped.. with the lights closer, the buds have more foxtail and a less round full bud shape. Also, with the lights spreading over a larger footprint, the growth was more full on the perimeter of the garden..

The tops on the perimeter of the garden were noticeably smaller under the lights that hung lower..

The perimeter tops under the higher lights are the same fat buds that are directly under the bulb..

Just an update on what I found..

I'm not AS sold on removing the glass as I was before.. I still lean towards NO GLASS as being the best way.. I need to experiment more and with different genetics to see if there are any unintended consequences of removing the glass.

However, with the height that lights are hung.. I am still ABSOLUTELY sold on the idea that bringing your lights in as close as possible to the tops of the plants is not advantageous.. In fact, it is a little bit harmful.. A common misconception in the mj growing community. 99.8% sure on that one..

It's just hard to do it.. It takes balls. haha. It is just like taking cuts with plain water..

You can root cuttings nearly just as fast and well dipping in plain water (not rooting compound) than you can using the best rooting compounds.. It took me a while to get the nerve to try it out.. but sure enough.. water works just as well.

Light height is the same, imo.. You worry you will miss out on buds if you raise those lights, but, if you actually do it.. you'll see.. there was nothing to be afraid of.
 
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killemsoftly

killemsoftly

Well-Known Member
TexasHank said:
I don't log in enough to be hated by everyone.. but, I'm getting closer. haha.
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don't mistake hatred for intense passion. or vice versa. specially with broads. Shit, now I'm confused>If what i said actually makes any sense don't tell me. I enjoy life's mysteries.
Need sleep. Brain bust bert.

cheers TH. They broke the mold. I stole mine back when no one was looking. Hoping to clone myself someday. That way i run 2 shifts. 'kill 'em' 24/7. Fuckin' a....:leaf::spew::evil:
 
skunkd0c

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
TexasHank said:
I suspect that a 250w hps, no glass, up high WILL beat out a 400w air cool down low.

Same for a 400w no glass up high will beat a 600w air cool down low.

So, if your reason for using aircool is heat build up.. I would recommend getting a smaller light.
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Thanks mate , just moved my light up from 12 inches its now 4ft (48 inch) above my plant

Think i can notice a difference already and its only been 10 minutes
woah1.gif

This be some spooky Twilight Zone shit
 
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