http://forum.grasscity.com/photopost/data/500/19753Zinc-Manganese.jpg
Yea i was looking at this for reference.
I flushed res today, cleaned it with some chlorine and pumped fresh nutes, im gonna let them sit for a little while before readjusting ph.
Added some epson again to help in case its mag def.
Roots look healthy new growth is white.
Lifted the net to let them perk up a little and de-stress them a little bit ill bring it back down in a few days.
Should I spray the roots with some h202 just in case it could be salt buildup?
From what you said about 300ppm tap, and the looks of those leaves, I'd say you have calcium toxicity.
Ca++ antagonizes Mg++ and K+. You need to get calcium down, or somehow get potassium and magnesium up.
How could i bring Ca down?
Hmm,,, lots of differing dump times....good overviews of the nutrient use by the plant in hydro.
Starting with water that's 300ppm out of the tap is BAD!!! 150 is the limit! I mean whats IN that 300ppm water?
In Recirculating/Ebb/ DWC hydro the easiest way I've ever come across is the 33% add back method. You can use any nutrient schedule.
You run it like this.
Make the required amount of 100% nutrient solution to fill the res to the required level.
Now as you have to add back to the res to keep it at running level. You add back a 33% nutrient solution ( make 1 gallon of 100% solution and add 2 gallons of straight water and you now have 33% solution.
Now you add this back until the TOTAL amount of the add back would equal the amount you needed to fill the res. DUMP res and refill with 100% solution and repeat the process.
I've had DWC's in 5 gallon pails with a 3 gallon fill level have to be dumped and refilled in as little as 6 days in bloom at the peak of growth.
I don't run but a few DWC's in the winter months any more and that's just for fun. I tend to stick to my Organic soil grows.
Anyway I still use the 33% rule when I do.
Had been using this formula previously but your method sounds a lot simpler
but this is more specific to hydro, the purpose is to let water sit in the res through all veg cycle allowing you to save on nutes, since you waste a lot while flushing, and you just flush once to change nutes for flower.
In my case however it seems that this method isnt viable, since im using very hard water.
So mineral buildup is expected.
http://www.asklucas.com/LucasFormula.html
I change mine every couple weeks, once the plants take off and are established I change every week. You don't have to, it just prevents a lot of issues that can result from poor res conditions. If your plants eat a bunch of "x" nute but very little of "y" nute then every time you add more nutes without changing the res you are giving your plant a lot more of "y" nute that it can use which will eventually lead to "y" nute toxicity or will just cause lockout of other nutrients because it is so improperly balanced.
Whenever you have have issues like this and aren't able to get assistance I would suggest first checking ph, if it seems to be in the clear then I would advise emptying out your res and refilling it with a clean nute solution. Within 24 hours you should be able to tell if that fixed or exacerbated the issue. More often than not it will completely fix everything.
Yea this makes sense, not sure how people make it work but i heard this formula works good, but in theory what ur saying seems right. Would depend on what the plant feels like eating at diff cycles.
