What do I need?
- Thread starter tk9119
- Start date
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
And keep in mind that :
Open Frame Psu (Power Supply Units ) ,are always used enclosed/ inside a case of a device .
They possess superior heat convection than the enclosed ones ,but are not meant to be used
'light-hearted ' as even their heatsinks ,most of times carry electricity .
( Experience talk .From getting a nice shock ! ).
So they need electric shielding/Isolation .
Closed frame / Encased psu are far more safer .Better suited to the unexperienced DIYer .
Not preferred though,by the more experienced .
Closed Frame are also used when psu is remote/outside from the rest of the device.
(Like on Han's Panels. ).This is done for high-performance.
You'll never see a closed frame psu ,inside the case of a high-performance (aka hi-end ) electronic device of some sort .Power Factor Correction derates with heat.
(Power Factor Correction capacitors/inductors/circuits heat up and PF derates.)
...............................................
Only 'exception' are the linear power supplies used in high-end Audio equip,
where usually their toroidal transformer is 'encased ' ,in order to limit /restrict the magnetic field ,as much as possible ,inside the toroidal solenoid ,for maximal performance of the transformer.
Linear power supplies though ,are not used nowdays .
(Only in Audio and Scientific applications .
I.e. in Benchtop Power Supplies as a source
of 'clean' ,noise -free DC . )
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Mellodrama
Well-Known Member
Mr. Flux, could you provide a link or two? Also, for those of us who might get mixed up, we need to make note whether we're talking about a driver for the COBs or a PS for the fans. Both have been discussed in this thread and it's getting a little confusing.
You're right, of course, it doesn't make much sense to spend a bunch of money on a COB & driver, then treat the cooling like an afterthought. I'd be interested in replacing the scrounged PC PSU with something new.
Sooner or later everything fails. If you're gonna try to bomb-proof your cooling, the best way to make that part of the system significantly more disaster-proof would be to provide redundancy. Two fans per heatsink, powered by separate power supplies.
Or devise some method of turning off the COB if cooling fails? Something triggered by temperature, current or a photo-eye?
EDIT: I'll risk being the doofus here. Someone will correct me, I'm sure
Posts recommending power supplies for FANS:
Post #9
Post #10
Post #17
Post #18
Post #19
Post #20
Posts making recommendations for COB DRIVERS:
Post #16
Mr. Flux's post #22 has me confused, because he mentions three different electrical devices, but two of them (APV-16 series and LPV-20 series) appear to be FAN recommendations, and one of them (PLN-20) appears to be a COB recommendation???
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MrFlux
Well-Known Member
Mello that is a good catch, the PLN is not suitable as a fan driver. There must be another adjustable constant voltage meanwell driver but I can't find it.
MrFlux
Well-Known Member
Adding redundancy is one way, another way is to make the system intrinsically meltdown-proof by overdimensioning the heatsinks.
Mellodrama
Well-Known Member
Yes, absolutely, I shoulda mentioned that. That might be the most expensive upfront, but most reliable in the long run, eh?
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Where's that stupid "rep" thing ?
Exactly MrFlux.
Oversized heatsinks.
" Mass and surface"
Nothing's beating this .
Same 'rules' discussed ,
apply for both Constant Voltage or Constant Current Switching Power Supplies.
It can be a plug voltage regulator,a led driver,an ATX power supply ,or whatever else whatever that fits the descriptionof a "Switching Power Supply Unit " .
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Mellodrama
Well-Known Member
OK, yes, they're all switching supplies, but I'm just trying to keep it simple. For those of us who aren't as well versed as you and Mr. Flux and Supra and etc.
Constant Voltage (or adjustable voltage would be even better) for providing power to fans, and Constant Current for LED drivers, yes?
BTW, I have no idea what that silvery "Plinius" thing in your pictures above does, but it looks really cool and I want one
Positivity
Well-Known Member
The fan power supply's I've been using are from my old lights I bought. All the same..small cheaply built looking...plastic encased from china. So far they have been running for years with no problem.
What's funny is I never see anything like it for sale anywhere!? Seems to be missing from the market for some odd reason. They are nice since so small..
As far as cob protection. I'm going to copy the setup from the gehl light. When I first bought the light brand new it would shutdown after 15 minutes. Then restart after it cooled. Then shutdown again. It was overheating...brand new.
The thermostat in it was shutting it down. Was very effective at saving the leds. I harvested the thermostat...put it in the light I'm using now. Safe to say I'll be putting it in all future builds until I find a better way.
They go on the ac side of the drivers though. Would be hard to implement in a remote driver setup.
What's funny is I never see anything like it for sale anywhere!? Seems to be missing from the market for some odd reason. They are nice since so small..
As far as cob protection. I'm going to copy the setup from the gehl light. When I first bought the light brand new it would shutdown after 15 minutes. Then restart after it cooled. Then shutdown again. It was overheating...brand new.
The thermostat in it was shutting it down. Was very effective at saving the leds. I harvested the thermostat...put it in the light I'm using now. Safe to say I'll be putting it in all future builds until I find a better way.
They go on the ac side of the drivers though. Would be hard to implement in a remote driver setup.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
A) Well roughly yes ....
CV 'psu' for powering fans ,microcontrollers (
) or any other devices utilised ...CC 'drivers' for powering leds
B ) Plinius Audio SA-103 Power Amplifier.
Sound's really great,though .....
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stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Arduino ($30 ) + Thermistors( Nx $1)` + Solid State Relay ($30 )
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Got a photo of your fan power supply(s)?
I use 12v 'laptop' power supplies....2, 3, 5a....they have been working well for 1 and 1/2 yearz (November 2012... ever since i built my cabinets)
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Sorry, stuck a wire clip on the label. Put a lighter next to it for size. Need to finish my wiring..it's challenging keeping a bunch of wires organized
Took a quick look at what's available, this one seems a comparable size. http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Single-output-12W-12v-1a-dc_613942459.html
Took a quick look at what's available, this one seems a comparable size. http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Single-output-12W-12v-1a-dc_613942459.html
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Getting there slowly sds. After I finish this light I'm working on, I'll have basically one on standby. I'll try implementing that in the next project..will need to read your arduino thread a few more times..lol
Positivity
Well-Known Member
That looks perfect. Just needs a plug or connected to an ac inlet.
Exactly what I was looking for..thanks
medicinehuman
Well-Known Member
Hey tk these guy's giving you advice are LED Gurus. They helped me and if I can doit, almost anyone can. Good luck
Mellodrama
Well-Known Member
That little APV-16-12 would have enough power to spin at least 6 or 7 120mm PC fans. That'd be my guess anyway. Since it's 12V the fans will spin at full crank. If you just can't stand the howling you could install some sort of fan speed controller.
I don't have time to look back right now, but I think Gaius wired his power into a multi-fan speed controller, the type that fits into a bay on the front of a PC, then wired the fans to the controller?
I don't have time to look back right now, but I think Gaius wired his power into a multi-fan speed controller, the type that fits into a bay on the front of a PC, then wired the fans to the controller?