Possible start of spider mites?

[Dr. Who]

of course DDT has been banned for many years, my point was simply chemicals aren't created equal, and I never have claimed to be a purist, I've resorted to chemicals many a-times for mites, in my opinion NOTHING can combat mites that is totally organic, minimize? maybe. Slow down? maybe in cold weather but actually somewhat eliminate? Not in my luck of using. I didn't think I was coming off as a purist, but it seems like frequently i'm mis-interpreted on this site. If I get a bad explosion of mites, (which I grow in a shed in the redwood forest where LITERALLY the ground is crawling with bugs) i'll use azamax if it's bad, but only if it's bad, and that's not exactly safe stuff.
I also have somwewhat good luck with not crowding plants too closely, and having a layer of sand/DM on the top to slow down any migrations.

Coolbeans,,,,DM, good idea.

Hmm Redwoods,,, Red 2 spotted mite city.....Best of luck.....Azamax is a concentrated extraction from the Neem tree!. I shoot Pyrethrin first and follow on with Forbid if need be......Neem trees,,,,Chrysanthemum plants,,,,still kills suckers.....Forbid is not a central Nervous system disruptor/destroyer so it poses low cross over problems to humans. It also kills mites at ALL stages of their cursed lives....It also is not a systemic (moves through out the plants vascular system),,,it is translaminar (lightly sprayed on the leaf surface where it will move to the bottom where the mites feed.) The MOA of Forbid is 6. So Forbid will not make insects (mites) tolerant to it.

And ,, no you were not the one coming off as a purist......

Peace on man.

 

[jessica d]

you guys ever use predators?

 

[ghgou812]

you guys ever use predators?

Not to jack his thread.... but.... I have a hunting camp and it has a TON of lady bugs in that area. I just started bringing back some from there and throw them my rooms after I did some reading up. Wont hurt and could only help right?

 

[greasemonkeymann]

Not to jack his thread.... but.... I have a hunting camp and it has a TON of lady bugs in that area. I just started bringing back some from there and throw them my rooms after I did some reading up. Wont hurt and could only help right?

I don't want to rain on anything, but I've tried predatory insects for mites before, and it's just simply not effective, the damn things procreate SO FAST, they just outnumber anything. Sadly. It also seems like the ladybugs don't prefer the mites, I think they like aphids and look for those, mine never stayed in the damn room, always took off looking for different food.
I highly recommend NOT using predatory insects/mites. Just not effective, in my experience, I've only tried three times, but it never even slowed them down.

 

[Below66]

Azamax is crap(there 2 types, your looking for cold extraction,), pyrethrin is effective but should not be used unless your in a bad area or have a bad battle on your hands, most effective used right before or around the kick into 12/12, it's strong stuff and plants don't like it too much(and again, there are 2 types of pyrethrin bombs, do research and get the cleaner version). Don't know about forbid but it seems like strong stuff too, stay away from the strong shit unless your about to lose the battle completely.


http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-growing/1299960-foliars.html/page-2

http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-growing/335656-natural-insecticides-fungicides.html

http://rollitup.org/t/organic-efficient-awesome-bug-repellent.827544/#post-10474823

https://www.rollitup.org/t/how-to-kill-spider-mites-100-naturally-no-chemicals.475307/

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7466.html

http://www.amazon.com/Monterey-Spin..._1_11_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1(everyone could use some spinosad in their lineup.)(also Dr bronners peppermint and lavender soaps are a must have)

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=258619

http://www.planetnatural.com/product-category/organic-gardening/natural-pest-control/(awesome site for info!)

One of the first things you need to do if you haven't is go to neemresource.com... it's the top vendor with the purest neem and lowest wholesale prices, pick up neem/karanja cake/oils, these are the building blocks for pest prevention so you don't have to deal with the strong solutions, most guys seem to be having success with weekly preventative sprays of neem or karanja mixed with different versions of silica, aloe, soap, herb concoctions, spinosad, ect..

Here is a recent good one I got from a pak from grass: http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-...lolos-organics-win.html/page-19#entry20012742, he goes on to explain the order in which is goes at it and everything, very informative!



If you don't have time for all this purist approach hippie stuff ... your best bet is weekly preventative sprays of neem/karanja oil mixed with whatever else you like to combo it with, and then you switch every other week with pyrethrin and spinsosad bombs. The good pyrethrin products are pretty much the median compromise between clean and soft approach and a dirty and hard approach. Remember, you're smoking this stuff, try to hustle a bit to make it as clean as possible and you will unlock the true potential medicinal benefits of what you're growing.

 

[ghgou812]

I don't want to rain on anything, but I've tried predatory insects for mites before, and it's just simply not effective, the damn things procreate SO FAST, they just outnumber anything. Sadly. It also seems like the ladybugs don't prefer the mites, I think they like aphids and look for those, mine never stayed in the damn room, always took off looking for different food.
I highly recommend NOT using predatory insects/mites. Just not effective, in my experience, I've only tried three times, but it never even slowed them down.

Interesting, thanks for the info.... will be hard to disagree as I put them in without any insect issue.

 

[greasemonkeymann]

Coolbeans,,,,DM, good idea.

Hmm Redwoods,,, Red 2 spotted mite city.....Best of luck.....Azamax is a concentrated extraction from the Neem tree!. I shoot Pyrethrin first and follow on with Forbid if need be......Neem trees,,,,Chrysanthemum plants,,,,still kills suckers.....Forbid is not a central Nervous system disruptor/destroyer so it poses low cross over problems to humans. It also kills mites at ALL stages of their cursed lives....It also is not a systemic (moves through out the plants vascular system),,,it is translaminar (lightly sprayed on the leaf surface where it will move to the bottom where the mites feed.) The MOA of Forbid is 6. So Forbid will not make insects (mites) tolerant to it.

And ,, no you were not the one coming off as a purist......

Peace on man.

hmm didn't know that about azamax, thanks for the info, I wonder why they have such an extensive precautionary measures (gloves, mask, skin protection)? Not that natural things can't be toxic, just thought that neem was relatively safe.

 

[greasemonkeymann]

I don't think azamax is crap, works well for me. Better than pyrethrin bombs do, but the redwood mites may have different attributes than the reg two-spotted ones. they seem smaller, but JUST as gnarly.

 

[Dr. Who]

Azamax is crap(there 2 types, your looking for cold extraction,), pyrethrin is effective but should not be used unless your in a bad area or have a bad battle on your hands, most effective used right before or around the kick into 12/12, it's strong stuff and plants don't like it too much(and again, there are 2 types of pyrethrin bombs, do research and get the cleaner version). Don't know about forbid but it seems like strong stuff too, stay away from the strong shit unless your about to lose the battle completely.
http://www.amazon.com/Monterey-Spin..._1_11_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1(everyone could use some spinosad in their lineup.)(also Dr bronners peppermint and lavender soaps are a must have)

Yup Pyth is hard on plants if you use TO MUCH.

Forbid 4F, and its active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils.

EXCEPT that your NOT left with a soap or oil residue on your plant.....Same reason I don't like herb cures....I want to taste WEED, not thyme or rosemary or cinn.....BLAH. And you sure will get that with weekly prevents! Why is the weekly use of neem needed? If your area is that bad MOVE.

I have not battled Mites in over 3 years....keep the grow CLEAN and don't stress the plants so they don't attract them!

Bugs can SLOW the progression of mites down so you can get them under control and then kill them off. IF you have a BAD infestation...I have never seen them "cure" a problem!!!

 

[Below66]

Agreed with most of what you said, but some people still battle them like crazy and telling them to move is dumb, most of the legal states are infested with bugs(CA, CO), and they have learned to deal with them even with mites all over the yard. That is why there is so much info on the subjects. I think the whole humbolt region perfected the craft.

I've never had to use something that late to effect taste, but I rather taste a bit of herbs, spices, and neem before I put harsher stuff in my shit.

 

[Dr. Who]

Yeah,,,move,,,bad idea.......sorry......

The point I'm making about the herbs is that the carrier is an oil. Do you think that has gone away magically? Your smoking an oil residue, not to mention that even if neem is organic. It's still a chemical that kills. Your smoking residue from that.....Ok, the amount in the carrier is small. Same for Forbid,,,,,,it's 6 drops per gallon,,,,,of water.....The new Azamax powders are soluble in.......Water.
You mentioned spinosad,,,,Yes it is accepted as Organic. (Side bar; Do you know how things get accepted as organic? You should read up on that....it will make you laugh. And not in a nice way) And it works for mites and thrips AND it is recommended you treat twice. It is also deadly to bees. That is a common problem with many methods. It also develops tolerance levels in the target insects.
Forbid or Spiromesifin is used on Corn and Strawberrys with a PHI (preharvest interval) of 5 and 3 days respectfully.
The toxic ratings for any insecticide are LOW, MODERATE and HIGH.
Forbid is in the LOW rating.
Mammal toxic testing shows that tests in concentrations of > 2000mg/kg the tox level is negative. Lower then soaps!
Is not an eye irritant.
Is negative for PRIMARY dermal sensitization. (irritation)
CAN be a dermal irritant,,,so the label states to ware long pants, long sleeve shirts and use rubber gloves, wear shoes and socks. This is a Federal requirement. NOT a sign of human toxicity! A very common misconception!!!!!

Lastly, in Bee's it is found to be Relatively Non-toxic in contact and consumption
The same for birds and worms.
It is found to be only Slightly toxic to Fish. This is a lower rating then Soaps!
Oils are considered TOXIC to all the above.
In soil run off it has a half life of 4.5 to 6.2 days depending on the College testing it.
Plant half lives vary by plant. It is accepted that the half life in Canna is as low as 7.5 days and as high as 9.6 days...

My point is here that If you research what you can use. You can find out some surprising information.
Any thing that kills has a reason why.
Just because it's organic,,,,, SURE doesn't mean it won't hurt you!
Just because it's a Chemical,,,,,Doesn't mean it will!

Knowledge is POWER!
Ignorance can kill.
Blind belief can be ignorant.

This is intended as educational content. NOT as an insult or as an argument!

Now go forth and investigate what you have available to complete your mission at hand, no matter what it is.

Good luck

 

[docter]

The chances that you kill them all in 1 treatment are very slim!!! Yes I would have to agree that never happens.




The eggs will hatch and the reinfestation begins.......You should always treat about 7 days apart, with what ever method you choose. Be sure to spray the surface of the soil or Coco also!

Every one should keep in mind that incomplete treatments for mites or any other insect WILL contribute to the insect becoming IMMUNE or RESISTANT to the substance used!!!! This is true with all organic compounds and most chemical solutions too! BE COMPLETE!

Can't get rid of them? Go right to Forbid 4F from Bayer Ag. Look on ebay for small amounts as 8oz is around $250. It takes 6 drops to 1 gallon so you can see why.

To the OP,,,,,I do NOT see mite damage!
Take a breath and calm down.....Take it easy and be patient.

 

[BenFranklin]

Anytime I've ever gotten Mites.. I take out the entire grow, turn it all off, start over after waiting a month or two, remove the method of introduction, it could be a plant outdoors that you have growing next to your house, opposite the side of the wall where your room is, or it could be that you brushed up against a plant or introduced a house plant and then visited your grow, I would look around your house, look for plants that are severely fucked up... ... I've not gotten mites in many many many many years.

I've tried Neem oil, it leaves the weed tasting a bit funny IMO. But, I highly recommend it if you do not want to go the route of starting over like I do.

Add a little to your nutrient water. Just a little is all you need. I've heard that even the smallest little dab will do.... However they recommend a teaspoon per gallon?

I think you can go with even an 8th.. or less, but, have not run experiments to see. If they bite into that plant with Neem oil, they die, it's like cyanide to them.. Also, it doesn't harm predatory mites and other bugs that do not suck on plant juices like mites do.

 

[Dr. Who]

I, unfortunately, cannot afford to kill off and start over......

 

[CannaCole]

I would sleep in the tent with tweezers before I succumbed to trashing my whole grow due to mites.

When I thought I had mites I did a few rounds of Mighty Wash and the problem has seemed to gone away. It's safe, I jerked off with it.

 

[SCJedi]

That doesn't look anything like what a 2-spotted mite would do. They leave your leaves with more of a speckled look. If that is caused by a pest it looks more like what thrips would do. Just spray with some neem and spinosad, alternating for a week or two and you should be fine.