KY~GROW1
Well-Known Member
ok, I don't overwater. I have holes in the bottom of the pot and I wait till the pot is light before feeding/watering.... so im not sure if you know what you r talking about, sorry n PEACE.
grow room is @ 89º can I add extra inline fan???
- Thread starter corbin5754
- Start date
woody333333
Well-Known Member
that's what you all say...... good luck newbie....
Nizza
Well-Known Member
want the op to know there are differences between "inline" fans. I would have one inline 6" booster fan where you pointed to, if possible 5 feet away from any bends in ducting, then where your "inline " is , have a 6" centrifugal inline fan , again 5' away from any bends if possible.
89F would be okay for growing with co2, but definitely not without co2, your yield will be effected.
invest in either an inline fan, or put the lights with just a booster fan on its own loop, then use a centrifugal inline to scrub the air with the charcoal filter, pumping co2 and keeping temps 80-90 optimal
oh yeah i bet you anything if you take the filter off, the room will cool down a ton
89F would be okay for growing with co2, but definitely not without co2, your yield will be effected.
invest in either an inline fan, or put the lights with just a booster fan on its own loop, then use a centrifugal inline to scrub the air with the charcoal filter, pumping co2 and keeping temps 80-90 optimal
oh yeah i bet you anything if you take the filter off, the room will cool down a ton
Nizza
Well-Known Member
also wanted to add instead of doing that extra bend to get to the lights from the charcoal filter, why not put the charcoal filter in-line with the lights, to make it so you have less restriction
the total sq area for the passive intake should be 3x the area of the exhaust, so 6 x 3.14 = 18.84 sq " x 3= ~56.52sq ft total passive intake
the total sq area for the passive intake should be 3x the area of the exhaust, so 6 x 3.14 = 18.84 sq " x 3= ~56.52sq ft total passive intake
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BenFranklin
Well-Known Member
@Nizza I've never used ducting myself, however when installing fireplaces and wood stoves they say every 90 degree bend reduces air by 50%, I assume this holds true with ANY ducting and air flow situation?
This is where it always got confusing for me as well, because, 2 x 90 degree bends is a reduction of airflow by 100%.. so your air is being trapped, inside the ducting?
This is where it always got confusing for me as well, because, 2 x 90 degree bends is a reduction of airflow by 100%.. so your air is being trapped, inside the ducting?
Nizza
Well-Known Member
draft is a lot different, the draft number may be really screwed up by more than one 90 degree bend. draft is much different than a duct that either has static or negative pressure, but there are charts and guides that will tell you the exact cfm restrictions you will get with what type of fan.
a good rule i learned when doing flue pipe was if possible, use 2 45's instead of a 90, which apply's to ventilation also. only down side is , in order to make things lightproof , you want 2 90 degree bends after the lights. the inside of the vent should be black/non-reflective also.
of course a plugged up charcoal filter will restrict your flow ~take the charcoal out and bake it~ is what i've read. I hear humidity can plug them up but have never had reason to scrub my air so i've never used active charcoal filters .
i do however, use an intake rewashable filter. This keeps the plants, the ducts, and everything clean. Build or buy a filter box/rack and duct it into the system! (( i just shove a piece of it into the intake duct hole, but if you cut squares out i'd make a rack system and just buy the pre-sized filters)
a good rule i learned when doing flue pipe was if possible, use 2 45's instead of a 90, which apply's to ventilation also. only down side is , in order to make things lightproof , you want 2 90 degree bends after the lights. the inside of the vent should be black/non-reflective also.
of course a plugged up charcoal filter will restrict your flow ~take the charcoal out and bake it~ is what i've read. I hear humidity can plug them up but have never had reason to scrub my air so i've never used active charcoal filters .
i do however, use an intake rewashable filter. This keeps the plants, the ducts, and everything clean. Build or buy a filter box/rack and duct it into the system! (( i just shove a piece of it into the intake duct hole, but if you cut squares out i'd make a rack system and just buy the pre-sized filters)
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BenFranklin
Well-Known Member
Thankfully I've always lived in a place where I've never needed to worry about all that.. Which is why I am not to savvy on it, but, still want to learn about it. Someday, I might need to know, or help someone else from this information.
Nizza
Well-Known Member
here's a good link i found, it will give you all the numbers you're looking for
http://www.cdicurbs.com/ductcal
also wanted to add http://cannaversity.com/calculators/lighting.php
http://www.cdicurbs.com/ductcal
also wanted to add http://cannaversity.com/calculators/lighting.php
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^what this guy said... i saw that pic of the fan your using on the first page and immeditately saw the problem.
those booster fans wont do diddly after hooked up to a filter and more than a few feet of flex duct.
but I stand by my mixed flow can max fans till the end, ~20-30% less power consumption than most centrifugals w/ similar CFM ratings. inline centrifugal would solve your problem for sure over that duct booster but IMO you should pick up a 6" max fan, the 6" has got a built in 3 speed control and its pretty silent (well, not really but its not as loud as others)... also those new S-line fans from vortex are nice too, alot lighter, built in backdraft damper and worm clamps, gotta love that... 8" worm clamps are hard to find.
but yeah, id say bigger (better) fan before additional fan. and if you feel like get rigid metal ducting, helps alot over flex duct.
BenFranklin
Well-Known Member
That's funny, for anyone who is curious, look up Mohican's 2014 season. He just posted some pics of some VERY healthy plants in 103 degree temps...
Plants aren't even phased by it. In fact they look VERY healthy.
Plants aren't even phased by it. In fact they look VERY healthy.
weed nerd113
Member
while be know that plants can handle temps above 90 and below 50 without instant death. if left in those conditions for too long you will see negative affects. plants do best between 70 and 78 degrees unless co2 enrichment is utilized in which case mid 80s are acceptable. but would i freak out if the temps got above 90 for a few days no i wouldn't. of course i never have that problem to begin with unless its the outdoor garden.
DOMSWOOZ
Well-Known Member
this thread is quite funny. heres my 2 cents, i run co2 but i keep the temps no higher than 85 degrees. i have found that anything higher your fighting against humidity and keeping the moister out of your room ( if running an A/C). and using a dehumidifier makes the plants suffer from slight necrosis on the fan leaves. depending on how sensitive the strain you can run into all types of problems… PM, Spider-Mites, mold in your room etc.
recommend reading Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Growers Guide...
recommend reading Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Growers Guide...
Warriorbuds
Well-Known Member
Above 85 F your Co2 is useless.......period....get temps lower, if Co2 is involved.
Pretty sure you have that backwards. Higher temps (with more light) is exactly where CO2 belongs.Above 85 F your Co2 is useless.......period....get temps lower, if Co2 is involved.
BenFranklin
Well-Known Member
Does a higher humidity level carry more c02?
I've never used it myself, but it made me curious as I am not a chemist, damn it, I'm a.. well, whatever it is I am, it's probably banned in 50 countries and not even heard of in the rest....
As far as I know humidity and CO2 are unrelated when it comes to growing. Sure they matter individually, but they do not affect one another at all. CO2 generators that burn a fuel will add some humidity. Water vapor is a byproduct of combustion.
CO2 can be amazing when properly applied. If not done well though, you are wasting both time and money.
BenFranklin
Well-Known Member
Ahhhh, ok, I didn't know if cO2 attached itself to water....
I suppose if it did that then it H20 + cO2 would become something else. Ch2O2? LOL!
I suppose if it did that then it H20 + cO2 would become something else. Ch2O2? LOL!
Herb Man
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it wouldn't occur to me to do it any other way to be honest.
Your filter is slowing down the air flow past the hot bulbs.
Herb Man
Well-Known Member
Vegging plants can handle higher temps than plants with flowers/bud.
So that's a poor comparison.
If your plants only occupied the 73 to 78 temp range, they would be a lot better.
So the wise gardener will strive for those figures.