Still cant figure out whats wrong with my girls..

smokersdream5618

smokersdream5618

Active Member
duudical said:
I use Heavy 16 Foliar for CalMag. No ph'ing needed, and the plants visually respond positively to their feeding every 5 days. I don't veg under HID, so I believe the consensus is that you should hit them right at or before lights out. I veg under T5/LED so I just spray them whenever. Really makes a big difference and fills in those micronutrient holes in a convenient delivery system. There are cheaper ways for sure - but I struggled with CalMag deficiencies until I started using it and I always have it in the lineup now. Epsom salts for sure, or some inexpensive CalMag nutrients could give you some results you are looking for.
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c0ldsm0ke

c0ldsm0ke

Active Member
duudical said:
I use Heavy 16 Foliar for CalMag. No ph'ing needed, and the plants visually respond positively to their feeding every 5 days. I don't veg under HID, so I believe the consensus is that you should hit them right at or before lights out. I veg under T5/LED so I just spray them whenever. Really makes a big difference and fills in those micronutrient holes in a convenient delivery system. There are cheaper ways for sure - but I struggled with CalMag deficiencies until I started using it and I always have it in the lineup now. Epsom salts for sure, or some inexpensive CalMag nutrients could give you some results you are looking for.
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I've also never veg'ed under HID before, but half of my t5 ballast is fucked or somethin and was in a rush to get em under somethin more than my CFLS. Will have to do some research on the heavy 16, as I said before, have grown for years before this and NEVER struggled with any deficiencies/toxicity, so this is a new problem for me lol. Hit em with an epsom concoction, will be sure to post some pics in a few days when they look perfect again. Positive thinking!!! ;)

Thanks for all the input guys, I'm certain that they'll show improvement the next few days. Much Love!
 
duudical

duudical

Well-Known Member
c0ldsm0ke said:
duudical! noticed the ASD grow of yours, how's the experience with em been??
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Still vegging, but so far she is looking good and producing some great leaves. Have her trained down so waiting for her to get some size before flowering her. I have three RP Sour Diesels in flower though and they are doing awesome.
 
duudical

duudical

Well-Known Member
c0ldsm0ke said:
duudical! noticed the ASD grow of yours, how's the experience with em been??
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Here is what she looks like though :) I am mainlining her so she is still in the process. But she is nice and thick. I really focus on strong root development in veg and I can tell she definitely has a good ball going down there as she puts on an inch or two with each feeding and is taking about a gallon and a half every 4-5 days.

IMG_7740.jpg IMG_7742.jpg IMG_7737.jpg

I truthfully hadn't grown, or even smoked, any sour or diesel strains. I did grow out Chemdawg and you could tell where the diesel name came from with that one! However now I have 3 Sour Diesels from Reserva Privada flowering, a Sage n Sour from THSeeds getting ready to flower, a Desert Diesel getting ready to flower and the Amherst Sour Diesel. If they perform anything like the RP SourD is, I will be very pleased. Just a monster.
 
duudical

duudical

Well-Known Member
DonAlejandroVega said:
ph of water, when growing in soil is almost meaningless. unless you are watering with lemon juice, or baking soda soup.............
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I would tend to agree. As long as you aren't wildly acidic or alkaline, the soil has so much in it that buffers and impacts the water's pH that almost all tap and well water is going to be okay as is (not so for hydro/soiless).

Also, the chlorine gas (and chloramines) aren't really harmful to your plants - they have no mechanisms to take in any of that stuff - but they are toxic to the microbial life you should be introducing and sustaining in the root zone. Bubbling the water will get the chlorine gas out of the water, but not the chloramines, which are still harmful to beneficials depending on the levels in your water. I use city water so I can easily get a breakdown online. You would probably need someone to come take a sample and do the analysis for you. But my water has chlorine and chloramines in it, but I still want to utilize inoculants like mychorrizae, beneficials via compost tea, etc....so I use a dechlorinator that essentially breaks the bonds of these molecules. It destroys very large amounts of chlorine - and also the chloramines that bubbling-only leaves behind. So I do both. I fill a 20 gallon trash can with water, add 10ml of the dechlorinator and let a couple of air stones go to work on it overnight. I brew compost tea once a week and add it to all of my waterfarm hydro buckets and coco hempy buckets.

You should give this a try. There are kits you can get from progress earth or all-in-one's like extreme tea, probably a lot of options at your local grow store. Super easy to make (just bubble for 24 hours) and I have seen incredible results. Deficiencies and little issues like that don't even really bother them because the roots are so developed and healthy the plant is able to fend off any disease or issue easily and the microbes are freeing up so much more of the available nutrients that there are plenty of what the plant needs. I went from struggling with all kinds of root rot issues, nutrient lockout/deficiencies, and just general weakness to plants that are stronger and healthier than every.

With your set up, you could probably alternate feeding them tea and water (or just straight tea all the way) without ever needing nutrients - depending on the contents of your soil of course. The tea isn't food so you can't burn or overfeed them. They are little organisms that break down dead roots and other organic material as well as the nutrients themselves into forms that the plant can absorb easier. The plants actually manufacture sugar in order to attract them. The plants can't use sugar themselves, but the microbes love it, so the plants excrete it to lure them in so they will take up residence and go to work around their roots.

Give it a try, you might see the issues you are encountering clear up pretty quick.
 
c0ldsm0ke

c0ldsm0ke

Active Member
duudical said:
I would tend to agree. As long as you aren't wildly acidic or alkaline, the soil has so much in it that buffers and impacts the water's pH that almost all tap and well water is going to be okay as is (not so for hydro/soiless).

Also, the chlorine gas (and chloramines) aren't really harmful to your plants - they have no mechanisms to take in any of that stuff - but they are toxic to the microbial life you should be introducing and sustaining in the root zone. Bubbling the water will get the chlorine gas out of the water, but not the chloramines, which are still harmful to beneficials depending on the levels in your water. I use city water so I can easily get a breakdown online. You would probably need someone to come take a sample and do the analysis for you. But my water has chlorine and chloramines in it, but I still want to utilize inoculants like mychorrizae, beneficials via compost tea, etc....so I use a dechlorinator that essentially breaks the bonds of these molecules. It destroys very large amounts of chlorine - and also the chloramines that bubbling-only leaves behind. So I do both. I fill a 20 gallon trash can with water, add 10ml of the dechlorinator and let a couple of air stones go to work on it overnight. I brew compost tea once a week and add it to all of my waterfarm hydro buckets and coco hempy buckets.

You should give this a try. There are kits you can get from progress earth or all-in-one's like extreme tea, probably a lot of options at your local grow store. Super easy to make (just bubble for 24 hours) and I have seen incredible results. Deficiencies and little issues like that don't even really bother them because the roots are so developed and healthy the plant is able to fend off any disease or issue easily and the microbes are freeing up so much more of the available nutrients that there are plenty of what the plant needs. I went from struggling with all kinds of root rot issues, nutrient lockout/deficiencies, and just general weakness to plants that are stronger and healthier than every.

With your set up, you could probably alternate feeding them tea and water (or just straight tea all the way) without ever needing nutrients - depending on the contents of your soil of course. The tea isn't food so you can't burn or overfeed them. They are little organisms that break down dead roots and other organic material as well as the nutrients themselves into forms that the plant can absorb easier. The plants actually manufacture sugar in order to attract them. The plants can't use sugar themselves, but the microbes love it, so the plants excrete it to lure them in so they will take up residence and go to work around their roots.

Give it a try, you might see the issues you are encountering clear up pretty quick.
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Awesome, thanks for the great advice! And hoorah for mychorrizae!! I use a product called "oregonism" from roots organics, it's supposed to have several types of mycorrizae that stimulate the root zone, and has provided awesome results in the past. I haven't looked into teas a whole lot, but that sounds right up my alley... with this grow I've tried to keep the nutrients to a minimum, so I'll have to take a visit to the store tomorrow =)
 
smokersdream5618

smokersdream5618

Active Member
I would answer that but im hoping you are on this thread to aggravate people or are a cop. Ill say this though if you you use peat moss it is acidic and say your nutrients are also acidic. With the the media and nutrients both being acidic and lets say it brings overall oh to 5.8 if you do not raise your Oh to around 6.8 it will have a variety of negative effects on your lady's. Sorry to tell you but someone has mis informed you. Not all potting soil is neutralized at a oh of 7 either. Some isbut not all. If it is and your water is at say 7.8 which is alalkaline base you have two bring the PH down. I know ph down is expensive but distilled vinegar has the same exact effect on water as PH down. Not trying to be rude but the information you provided is actually pretty crucial and the your PH being wrong is then diagnosed as a different problem. One more thing, never use Schultz potting soil it has some sort of chemical that usually kills your plants or if the survive they stay tiny and are not worth the time.
 
duudical

duudical

Well-Known Member
smokersdream5618 said:
I would answer that but im hoping you are on this thread to aggravate people or are a cop. Ill say this though if you you use peat moss it is acidic and say your nutrients are also acidic. With the the media and nutrients both being acidic and lets say it brings overall oh to 5.8 if you do not raise your Oh to around 6.8 it will have a variety of negative effects on your lady's. Sorry to tell you but someone has mis informed you. Not all potting soil is neutralized at a oh of 7 either. Some isbut not all. If it is and your water is at say 7.8 which is alalkaline base you have two bring the PH down. I know ph down is expensive but distilled vinegar has the same exact effect on water as PH down. Not trying to be rude but the information you provided is actually pretty crucial and the your PH being wrong is then diagnosed as a different problem. One more thing, never use Schultz potting soil it has some sort of chemical that usually kills your plants or if the survive they stay tiny and are not worth the time.
Click to expand...
All the tap water I have used comes out at about 7.2 and after mixing the nutrients I use it usually comes to around 6.8 or so. I haven't experienced any water issues that would produce an enormous amount of acidity or alkalinity growing in soil. For sure I have to adjust my pH for hydro and soilless and keep it around 5.8-6.2 or so.

You clearly have understanding of soil growing then my very limited experience. pH is certainly something to check. But unless it is running off at a pH seriously out of the 5.5-7.2 range, I wouldn't think that is playing any significant role in what he is seeing.
 
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