LED choices

[SupraSPL]

Yep, the A51 (RW150) is where its at. Cree XPE reds are tough to beat for flowering. Solar flare uses mystery LEDs...that is not a good sign in this business. No disrespect to those who love it, but I don't believe any watts should be spent on fluoro tubes, UVB, induction or otherwise because of their poor efficiency, poor ability to reach, and poor lumen maintenance. Those watts and $$ should be spent on more LEDs (IMO).

The Solar Flare claims that it exceeds the ppf of a 600 HPS which is a flat out lie. 600 HPS has more than twice the ppf of the solarflare. It calls itself a 440 because it uses 88 "5W" LEDs. Actual LED dissipation is about 270W so that is $3.33/W. A51 is a no-nonsense approach and is what it says it is. RW150 dissipates 135W so it cost $3.5/W for quality LEDs. Another option worth looking at, the RapidLED Onyx Bloom. Uses XML2 3000K. Dissipates 210W and cost $2.15/W.

 

[Commander Strax]

 

[408BayShark]

Yep, the A51 (RW150) is where its at. Cree XPE reds are tough to beat for flowering. Solar flare uses mystery LEDs...that is not a good sign in this business. No disrespect to those who love it, but I don't believe any watts should be spent on fluoro tubes, UVB, induction or otherwise because of their poor efficiency, poor ability to reach, and poor lumen maintenance. Those watts and $$ should be spent on more LEDs (IMO).

The Solar Flare claims that it exceeds the ppf of a 600 HPS which is a flat out lie. 600 HPS has more than twice the ppf of the solarflare. It calls itself a 440 because it uses 88 "5W" LEDs. Actual LED dissipation is about 270W so that is $3.33/W. A51 is a no-nonsense approach and is what it says it is. RW150 dissipates 135W so it cost $3.5/W for quality LEDs. Another option worth looking at, the RapidLED Onyx Bloom. Uses XML2 3000K. Dissipates 210W and cost $2.15/W.

So two A51 150's in a 3x3 Gorilla for roughly 4 girls would be ok? One is not enough correct?

 

[keysareme]

Yep, the A51 (RW150) is where its at. Cree XPE reds are tough to beat for flowering. Solar flare uses mystery LEDs...that is not a good sign in this business. No disrespect to those who love it, but I don't believe any watts should be spent on fluoro tubes, UVB, induction or otherwise because of their poor efficiency, poor ability to reach, and poor lumen maintenance. Those watts and $$ should be spent on more LEDs (IMO).

The Solar Flare claims that it exceeds the ppf of a 600 HPS which is a flat out lie. 600 HPS has more than twice the ppf of the solarflare. It calls itself a 440 because it uses 88 "5W" LEDs. Actual LED dissipation is about 270W so that is $3.33/W. A51 is a no-nonsense approach and is what it says it is. RW150 dissipates 135W so it cost $3.5/W for quality LEDs. Another option worth looking at, the RapidLED Onyx Bloom. Uses XML2 3000K. Dissipates 210W and cost $2.15/W.

+1 for Rapid LED. I will be picking up one each of the Veg and Bloom lights, and be running them both continuously side by side for my entire grows. So all plants will get both light spectrum's the entire time

 

[spazatak]

Yep, the A51 (RW150) is where its at. Cree XPE reds are tough to beat for flowering. Solar flare uses mystery LEDs...that is not a good sign in this business. No disrespect to those who love it, but I don't believe any watts should be spent on fluoro tubes, UVB, induction or otherwise because of their poor efficiency, poor ability to reach, and poor lumen maintenance. Those watts and $$ should be spent on more LEDs (IMO).

The Solar Flare claims that it exceeds the ppf of a 600 HPS which is a flat out lie. 600 HPS has more than twice the ppf of the solarflare. It calls itself a 440 because it uses 88 "5W" LEDs. Actual LED dissipation is about 270W so that is $3.33/W. A51 is a no-nonsense approach and is what it says it is. RW150 dissipates 135W so it cost $3.5/W for quality LEDs. Another option worth looking at, the RapidLED Onyx Bloom. Uses XML2 3000K. Dissipates 210W and cost $2.15/W.

Induction is poor? care to explain...Im not disputing I'm just curious as know little about it and am still considering it

 

[guod]

 

[Commander Strax]

RW-150

Minimum: 24"x24" Maximum: 36"x36" Optimal: 24"x30"

 

[SupraSPL]

Induction is poor? care to explain...Im not disputing I'm just curious as know little about it and am still considering it

With all due to respect to those who already own and use them, I say keep on growin bud, but if you are in the market for a new light here are my concerns about induction/indagrow vs LED or even HPS:

-efficiency - not surprisingly, induction's radiometric efficiency is similar to fluorescent tubes. Indagrow claims 60 lumens/watt even on their most efficient lamp and they are short on deep red so spectrum is no excuse for low lumen numbers. That translates to roughly 20% efficiency. Diy LED can be up to 48.5% (using Cree's minimum figures), top notch prefab LED is in the low 30s and HPS is 35%. So that means induction would be one of the hottest ways to flower and the most expensive electrically.
-directionality - induction outputs in 360 degrees versus LED 115 degrees. Despite their claims, Indagrow suffers a very significant reflector penalty. Only a small proportion of its photons are heading in the right direction, and they are not that cooperative when trying to redirect them to the canopy. The large bulb itself blocks a significant portion of its own reflected photons.
-lumen depreciation - Indagrow claims 7% loss in first 2 years VS 1-2% for properly cooled LED.

So I am no fan of induction on paper, but I have not tried growing with it and I am open to all possibilities. Hyroot pointed out that the newest versions do have more deep red but that the website was not up to date.

 

[SupraSPL]

View attachment 3166400

Guod this thing looks awesome for spread, but on the other hand dissipating 300W, it seems like it must be running those LEDs smokin hot Tj?

 

[NyQuilkush318]

I supercrop my plant today can I put her in flowering tomorrow

 

[MarCus M.D]

Yep, the A51 (RW150) is where its at. Cree XPE reds are tough to beat for flowering. Solar flare uses mystery LEDs...that is not a good sign in this business. No disrespect to those who love it, but I don't believe any watts should be spent on fluoro tubes, UVB, induction or otherwise because of their poor efficiency, poor ability to reach, and poor lumen maintenance. Those watts and $$ should be spent on more LEDs (IMO).

The Solar Flare claims that it exceeds the ppf of a 600 HPS which is a flat out lie. 600 HPS has more than twice the ppf of the solarflare. It calls itself a 440 because it uses 88 "5W" LEDs. Actual LED dissipation is about 270W so that is $3.33/W. A51 is a no-nonsense approach and is what it says it is. RW150 dissipates 135W so it cost $3.5/W for quality LEDs. Another option worth looking at, the RapidLED Onyx Bloom. Uses XML2 3000K. Dissipates 210W and cost $2.15/W.

What are the real consumption of XGS 190 ? Anyone have that information ?

2 x XGS -190 will serve to 4x4 ? or more for 3x3 ?

 

[SupraSPL]

It should draw about 195W so I estimate actual LED dissipation to be about 165W.

 

[gk skunky]

What are the real consumption of XGS 190 ? Anyone have that information ?

2 x XGS -190 will serve to 4x4 ? or more for 3x3 ?

Should be able to cover 4x4 with 2 fine no issues with plenty of light. For sure could do 3x4 or 3x3 no prob. Or you could Just go over kill like me, I run a 190 and 150 in a 2x3 lol, and say Fuck it throw 3 in a 4x4. LOL Should probably note I ran the xgs fine in the 2x3 itself with results on par with an average 400w hps grow. Got 6.5oz.

 

[SupraSPL]

Wow awesome results GK! 1.1 g/W by my measure.

 

[408BayShark]

Just ordered my gorilla 3x3 and debating if I should get all the fans, ducting, etc before I pick up my Area 51 RW150.. Also swooped up a drop cam HD to monitor my girls on my patio (for now) since my neighbors moved out and a lil paranoid my complex manager may try and peek around the balcony wall (even though I am prop 215 compliant) Me no want eviction, 20 months out from buying my own place..

 

[408BayShark]

So two A51 150's in a 3x3 Gorilla for roughly 4 girls would be ok? One is not enough correct?

Hey BK an

So two A51 150's in a 3x3 Gorilla for roughly 4 girls would be ok? One is not enough correct?

So I just ordered my 3x3 gorilla.. Cant figure out if i should pick up all the small stuff, fans, etc or if I should pick up my Area 51 150 or 190 first.. First timer problems...

 

[hyroot]

With all due to respect to those who already own and use them, I say keep on growin bud, but if you are in the market for a new light here are my concerns about induction/indagrow vs LED or even HPS:

-efficiency - not surprisingly, induction's radiometric efficiency is similar to fluorescent tubes. Indagrow claims 60 lumens/watt even on their most efficient lamp and they are short on deep red so spectrum is no excuse for low lumen numbers. That translates to roughly 20% efficiency. Diy LED can be up to 48.5% (using Cree's minimum figures), top notch prefab LED is in the low 30s and HPS is 35%. So that means induction would be one of the hottest ways to flower and the most expensive electrically.
-directionality - induction outputs in 360 degrees versus LED 115 degrees. Despite their claims, Indagrow suffers a very significant reflector penalty. Only a small proportion of its photons are heading in the right direction, and they are not that cooperative when trying to redirect them to the canopy. The large bulb itself blocks a significant portion of its own reflected photons.
-lumen depreciation - Indagrow claims 7% loss in first 2 years VS 1-2% for properly cooled LED.

So I am no fan of induction on paper, but I have not tried growing with it and I am open to all possibilities. Hyroot pointed out that the newest versions do have more deep red but that the website was not up to date.

the inda gro's peak drops off at 640nm - 650nm. 10% 730, 3% uv-b 5% uv-a. - improves trichome production. With added led pontoons 660nm , 730nm add more deep red. With the 730's at lights out, I can run 13/11 and get larger yields / buds. With 24% more light over the grow. It also has cri around 90 and 800 umole/s at 18 inches. only par distance I know of. I keep mine at 14-15 inches away from the canopy. I do like it more than the a51. But I only have 1 sgs 160 panel going so its not really a fair comparison. I'm hesitant on getting more a51. I'm split between a51 and DIY and more inda gro's. With led you want to supplement uv-a , uv-b, and IR so ups the cost. Inda gro's run the least watts for 4x4-5x5. I have 2 covering an 8x5. 920watts

right now my largest bud is 3/4 the width of a party cup. At day 37 13/11 , 9 lb hammer.

I've ran hps, par t5, CMH, led, induction. The densest buds have been under inda gro. The most trichome production under CMH and inda gro. The largest buds under par t5 (tops the size of a football). Led and CMH tied for bud size. Hps came in last for everything. Digilux and hortilux. the sun of course beats everything lol.


My next round will be a nice test grow. Not vs other lights. But under 3 ig' lst vs main line vs scrog. use the vertical vpar by itself tall ways with 4 tallest plants, 2 on each side.

 

[PetFlora]

Guod this thing looks awesome for spread, but on the other hand dissipating 300W, it seems like it must be running those LEDs smokin hot Tj?

I am using a 600. Today is day 9, but day 30 since first pistils. It replaced a 432w hot5; 4 Zoomed Fluorosuns + 2 6500 + 2 2900 (on the outsides), which was budding rather nicely

I chose the spectrums, sort of mimicking a 3000K COB, but looking to develop a light that could be used for both veg and flower.

Since I did not know the Osram spectral graphs, I mixed ~ 7:3 @ 3000 + 2700 + a few 450s and 625s

Drop by to see recent pics

 

[DANKSWAG]

In this setup DormGrow lights are being used in a 2x2 tent 5 feet high.
The light source consist of one 240W LED (actual draw 140w, cost $300) panel supplemented with a 90W LED UFO (draw 82watt cost $150) and two tertiary 12W Red (Bloom) (draw 12w cost $45 each) LED bulbs.

Total watt draw, 140+82+12+12=246 watts. Total cost in lights $530.

This is what they look like at 57 days into flowering, which is very impressive to me and leads the question to what could be possible with a DormGrow 900 at under 1K cost to own?




DankSwag

 

[Greengenes707]

the inda gro's peak drops off at 640nm - 650nm. 10% 730, 3% uv-b 5% uv-a. - improves trichome production. With added led pontoons 660nm , 730nm add more deep red. With the 730's at lights out, I can run 13/11 and get larger yields / buds. With 24% more light over the grow. It also has cri around 90 and 800 umole/s at 18 inches. only par distance I know of. I keep mine at 14-15 inches away from the canopy. I do like it more than the a51. But I only have 1 sgs 160 panel going so its not really a fair comparison. I'm hesitant on getting more a51. I'm split between a51 and DIY and more inda gro's. With led you want to supplement uv-a , uv-b, and IR so ups the cost. Inda gro's run the least watts for 4x4-5x5. I have 2 covering an 8x5. 920watts

right now my largest bud is 3/4 the width of a party cup. At day 37 13/11 , 9 lb hammer.

I've ran hps, par t5, CMH, led, induction. The densest buds have been under inda gro. The most trichome production under CMH and inda gro. The largest buds under par t5 (tops the size of a football). Led and CMH tied for bud size. Hps came in last for everything. Digilux and hortilux. the sun of course beats everything lol.


My next round will be a nice test grow. Not vs other lights. But under 3 ig' lst vs main line vs scrog. use the vertical vpar by itself tall ways with 4 tallest plants, 2 on each side.

I know your getting good results with your IG, so don't take this as anything other than making sure you have the correct info...
VVVVV

For all the Inda-gro guys out there, I did a par reading @18" with the pontoon since about 16"-18" seems to be the recommended to get coverage and growth. I let it warm up and this is what I got...

Center: 451µmols

N1x1: 420µmols
N2x2: 367µmols
N3x3: 294µmols
N4x4: 193µmols

W1x1: 343µmols
W2x2: 260µmol
W3x3: 198µmol
W4x4: 94µmol

Since it's a rectangular unit...
"W" is for the wide coverage way(has to cover more outside the unit)
"N" is for the narrow coverage way(unit takes up 41" of the 48" tray)