Thanks guys, I got home to a friennnnnndly email regarding my comment about driving the XPEs and I want to clear the air (eyeroll), he had said someone emailed them worried/wondering why they drive their emitters so heavy. Good god.... sensitive susies out there I swear.
"We have NEVER said we were going to drive our red LEDs harder instead of
> upping the diode count.
>
> The SGS has 24 red LEDs, the rw has 36 and they ARE being driven softer
> than they were in the sgs. LED count is 100% visible in the website pics
> of each lamp.
>
> And you should not swap the drivers, the voltage will not line up, and
> you'd be over driving the reds by an extra 125mA. There's a reason each
> string of LEDs has the driver it does, if it was better the other way,
> we would have done it like that."
SO. I knew I had heard it from the birds mouth at some point or another, and decided to do some digging....
"The 750mA would be optional for people upgrading their 2013 Cree lamps. Right now the Cree XPE1 uses 550mA, their max is 700mA. The new Cree XPE2 can handle 1000mA, and will be giving them 750mA as standard for all 2014 Cree lamps. It's up to the owners of the 2013's if they want 750's, or keep the 550's, which are totally compatible with the XPE2's. The 750's are good for an extra 20w when used with the XPE2's.
Both the XPE2 and XTE are binned at 85c, with identical specs as the XPG1 and XPE1 binned at 25c. If you operate the XPE2 and XTE at 25c, they are much more efficient. My new lamps run at pretty close to 25c."
This is where the confusion arose, keep in mind this was back in early August, still in concept mode, Im assuming, since he mentions the XPE2s. Again, SORRY for hte confusion. He was implying he was going to offer the XPE2s as upgrade parts and driving THEM harder. Not the original XPE1s.
also, he suggested I dont fuck with the drivers, says if it was better he would have done it.... erhem. So.
I thought it'd be worth it, if I personally wanted more red in my spectrum to drive it closer to 650mA, but he did bring a point to the flex in voltage, theres always a range, not a set point for the string, and frankly, I don't know enough about that to guarantee i wouldnt fuck something up- I thought it was just making sure you had a driver that could handle the MAXIMUM voltage of the string and making sure the minimum voltage of the driver was met by the emitters.
Spinosad you say eh G?! gonna have to check that out my friend, hope all is well over there homie! You salvaging those monster heatsinks for your projects? I could see you using the cases too, COB per square? actually thinking about bidding on one of those AT120s on ebay without losing an arm. One RB and one all white...
Puff, Ill still get you that breakdown