120 V vs. 240 V

[mustang519]

I am building 2 new flower rooms. The breaker panel is about 15 feet from the rooms. The panel has plenty of space for more breakers. What are the pros and cons of using 240V for the ballast instead of 120V. 4K of light each room.

thanks in advance.

mustang

 

[chuck estevez]

240 uses all the power, nothing is returned to ground, it is less damaging on the equipment.you can also run 2 smaller wires instead of larger wire for 110v

 

[god1]

I am building 2 new flower rooms. The breaker panel is about 15 feet from the rooms. The panel has plenty of space for more breakers. What are the pros and cons of using 240V for the ballast instead of 120V. 4K of light each room.

thanks in advance.

mustang

240 volt will require half the current. That’s why you can use smaller wire. P = I*V rms. Your main will have a max current carrying capability. In most new homes that’s rated at 200 amps. The available slots only matter if you run out; it’s more about the total current you have available when everything is turned on.

You still need a gnd and return connection. so four wire romex, return and gnd connected at the box. Yes you can make it work with three wire but you need to check local code, or be willing to say "screw it". bad deal if your house has fire damage and the insurance company checks, they'll use any excuse not to pay.

The down side of 240 is that it takes two slots per breaker, one for each line. In my opinion, it's the way to go with the power you're pulling.

I'd hook the circuits in parallel as opposed to series, keeps the wire more manageable. The down side is that's 4 single slots.

 

[superstoner1]

Running 240 fofor the ballasts is best, they run much cooler and last longer.

 

[god1]

Running 240 fofor the ballasts is best, they run much cooler and last longer.

Not really, power is power. 1Kw is 1Kw. Efficiency determines heat dissipation in a device.
Electronic ballasts have internal devices with safe operating points; it's possible that poorly designed units could have reliability issues related to source parameters.

 

[Discoballs]

240 uses all the power, nothing is returned to ground, it is less damaging on the equipment.you can also run 2 smaller wires instead of larger wire for 110v

I would not even bother with it unless you have a giant operation. Is it really worth the effort and risks? Keep it simple. Over complicating stuff only leaves more room for error...

 

[superstoner1]

I'm sorry but i use quality products because i have a quality grow and when I can rest my hands on a ballast that has been plugged in for 10-12hrs running 240v and hardly feel the heat but the same ballast plugged into 120v would burn you. IT is principles of resistance and dissipation.

 

[chuck estevez]

I would not even bother with it unless you have a giant operation. Is it really worth the effort and risks? Keep it simple. Over complicating stuff only leaves more room for error...

220 is safer than 110, why do you think the UK is all 220 volt?

 

[superstoner1]

And actually it is worth it if you can run anything for your grow on 240v do it.

 

[Diabolical666]

Once I got my flower room set up (2-1000w) I switched to 220. If I didnt I would have been throwing breakers. 110 couldnt handle it.

 

[Discoballs]

220 is safer than 110, why do you think the UK is all 220 volt?

I agree it is safer until its improperly wired or someone mistakenly plugs a 110v piece of equipment into it...

 

[chuck estevez]

I agree it is safer until its improperly wired or someone mistakenly plugs a 110v piece of equipment into it...

well, If you don't know what you are doing, then you shouldn't even try and wire a 12 volt battery.

 

[ttystikk]

Not really, power is power. 1Kw is 1Kw. Efficiency determines heat dissipation in a device.
Electronic ballasts have internal devices with safe operating points; it's possible that poorly designed units could have reliability issues related to source parameters.

Magnetic ballasts don't have to work as hard when provided 240V, leading directly to energy efficiency savings and better longevity. I suspect it is similar for digitals.

If you're running 4kW in one space, you really don't have much choice- which is good, because insisting on 120V would be a mistake and a potential fire hazard. Rock proper up to code 240V from the breaker on out. The extra money spent won't matter tomorrow, but peace of mind is priceless.

 

[chuck estevez]

Magnetic ballasts don't have to work as hard when provided 240V, leading directly to energy efficiency savings and better longevity. I suspect it is similar for digitals.

If you're running 4kW in one space, you really don't have much choice- which is good, because insisting on 120V would be a mistake and a potential fire hazard. Rock proper up to code 240V from the breaker on out. The extra money spent won't matter tomorrow, but peace of mind is priceless.

not reallyy any savings on power, a 1000 watts is a 1000 watts, doesn't matter the power you run it on, the cost is the same.

 

[Commander Strax]

well, If you don't know what you are doing, then you shouldn't even try and wire a 12 volt battery.

12v battery can be very dangerous...start with 9v

 

[Glaucoma]

240 volt will require half the current. That’s why you can use smaller wire. P = I*V rms. Your main will have a max current carrying capability. In most new homes that’s rated at 200 amps. The available slots only matter if you run out; it’s more about the total current you have available when everything is turned on.

You still need a gnd and return connection. so four wire romex, return and gnd connected at the box. Yes you can make it work with three wire but you need to check local code, or be willing to say "screw it". bad deal if your house has fire damage and the insurance company checks, they'll use any excuse not to pay.

The down side of 240 is that it takes two slots per breaker, one for each line. In my opinion, it's the way to go with the power you're pulling.

I'd hook the circuits in parallel as opposed to series, keeps the wire more manageable. The down side is that's 4 single slots.

Just wanted to point out that there are double pole/single slot breakers. I can't say that's true for all styles, but it is for mine.

---

I'm a fan of 220 for large draw items. Just make SURE you either clearly label 220 outlets or use the proper plug outlets. Preferably the latter. I have both 220 and 110 in my space. Unfortunately, only my digital ballasts can make use of the 220.

 

[ttystikk]

not reallyy any savings on power, a 1000 watts is a 1000 watts, doesn't matter the power you run it on, the cost is the same.

Like Yogi Berra said, in theory, theory and practice are the same.

In this case, practice produces more friction which- admittedly marginally, unless your ballast is on its last legs- reduces overall efficiency.

Another way to put this is that the actual efficiency factor changes slightly for the better as input voltage gets closer to output voltage.

Splitting hairs here, to be sure. The main reason I want to see this guy pony up for 240V is safety, as you must be well aware that it's a lot tougher to cook a wire in the wall at a given wattage draw at 240V than 120V.

 

[mustang519]

Thanks for the thoughts. This is for a for a WA recreational grow. It will all have to be done with a permit and inspection so all the work will be to code. I have a 200 amp panel and am only using 45 amps now. Now I have some decisions to make.

mustang

 

[SnapsProvolone]

Obviously the pro is that you can pull twice the wattage using a given wire gauge. No brainer for loads supporting 240v.

 

[god1]

Obviously the pro is that you can pull twice the wattage using a given wire gauge. No brainer for loads supporting 240v.

Yeah for big loads 240 is the way to go. In my previous post re heating, I was referring to I^2*R loss. That's where the heat comes from. Didn't mean to create confusion.