RDWC 1000 watt Gorilla Tent, T5 Mother Area, T5 pre-veg tent, Cloning Station

jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
jijiandfarmgang said:
Most manufacturers don't recommend running their fans that low. It can cause overheating.

- Jiji
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Luckily, Hyperfans are designed to run as low as 30%. They have built in speed controllers. Mine is running nice and cool while allowing more odor contact time with the carbon in the filter.
 
jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
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My first attempt at a scrog. Learned a lot and will make adjustments next round. I didn't take into account how, as the plant grew, it would push the lower net upward, into a dome shape. This limited the distance for my upper, bud support net. Next time I will keep the bottom net even lower and spread the tops out even more. All this being said, I'm not ashamed of my canopy and the nugs are incredibly dense at Day 38. Vanilla Ice Cream kids.
 
jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
^^Glad it has helped. Please share anything you're utilizing from my list, I'd like to see variants of this system and how they're working.

I've been absent for a while and, unfortunately, haven't been shooting too many vids, but it's a well oiled machine in there at this point. On the last flower run, I had two phenos and, now, I've narrowed it down to one...my "orange" pheno (just because I had orange labels in the mother's netpot). I almost tossed this mother because I was sure 2 or 3 of my other phenos would out produce her. Not the case at all. Her offspring are strong and produce big, dense, rock hard flowers. I also had an infestation of fucking fungus gnats that was just ridiculous...had to take all of my houseplants outside and hang sticky traps by all the lights in my house. On my last run, the gnats got into the roots (even though in RDWC) and killed one "purple" pheno and heavily affected the two purple phenos on either side of her. The orange phenos had no gnats. Therefore, purple was out, and orange was the final, grand prize winner. I now have the seed mother and four F1s growing (in two separate bins in case something happens).

A couple pics attached: A couple hours of trimming from last batch, Red Hairs and keif collected from drying racks, some nice purple hues in there, An early clone I pitched outside and neglected...gave me a nice little quad of grape Ice Cream, A quarter+ nug after about 2 weeks of dry/cure, Some Ice Cream "melting" in the Sun, Eye candy (not my photo...I just really like it)

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HempletonState

HempletonState

Well-Known Member
jcommerce said:
I didn't, but I can. I ended up breaking out my 1/10 HP chiller and have it running. They are horribly counterproductive as they require a pump in your reservoir (heat source) and they need to exhaust the heat dissipation (another heat source). I've considered running a satellite plumbing rig off of my existing RDWC pump, so as not to have a heat generating pump in my rez but, wow, just another job with cutting, gluing, plumbing, snake wrestling, etc...not to mention the down time on my plants while the PVC glue cures.

My chiller has brought the temps down from 78F to 73F. I know that dissolved oxygen is greatly lessened the closer you get to 80F, but with all of my reefing experience and growing high end SPS corals, along with the fact that the most healthy reefs (at least for now) in the world in Papua New Guinea and other parts of the coral triangle, all thrive in high 70s to mid 80s. This lets me know that there's still plenty of oxygen in the water at these temps (from tides, winds, etc). I, for one, believe that this can be applied to hydroponics with the right tools and methods in place. Products like Aquashield, Hydroguard, and Hygrozyme have been developed exactly for these conditions. Knock on wood, but I've never had a root rot problem, even with higher than optimal water temps using these products. With the incredible amount of circulation via the main rez pump, the jet heads (or air stones), and the introduction of fresh, external air with an airstone in the main rez, it's not too far fetched to think that the plants will do well and thrive. I've seen it many times before. Just consider that some outdoor, black smartpots hit 140 - 150F, or higher, when getting hit with direct, mid-summer sunlight and air temps in the 100s. Those roots, while maybe not ideal, still produce 6 - 10 LB plants.

All this being said, I added some Hydroguard today and hooked up the chiller. I normally wouldn't have taken these steps, but the foam kind of freaked me out because I've never seen it in my many years of DWC hydro. The optimist in me wants to say that it's the bennies in the organic Botanicare line I'm using (just like a tea foams), but who knows? I'm hoping I can eliminate the chiller....they suck (both power and figuratively).

Luckily, it's getting hot in my neck of the woods and I've specially ducted the AC into this room and it will be running more and more regularly in the coming days and weeks. I ran it today and it dropped the room temps drastically which, obviously, causes the water temp to drop with the ambient room temps being lower. And in the winter, it's very cool in this basement room. I like the challenge of tackling curve balls along the way in room setups.
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Just and idea here , but I run my chiller in a separate bucket with a closed loop system connected to stainless steel coil at the bottom of my buckets , controller , and res. it makes a bunch more holes in your buckets but eliminates a heat causing pump inside the system and also allows the chiller to not have to run as much because the coil inside the buckets really keeps the water cool
 
jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
HempletonState said:
Just and idea here , but I run my chiller in a separate bucket with a closed loop system connected to stainless steel coil at the bottom of my buckets , controller , and res. it makes a bunch more holes in your buckets but eliminates a heat causing pump inside the system and also allows the chiller to not have to run as much because the coil inside the buckets really keeps the water cool
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Cool. I've looked into chillers with coils before. Got any pics so I can get a better idea of your rig?

Luckily, once I flip to 12/12 and the canopy completely shades the totes and plumbing, my chiller rarely turns on. The ten drops into the mid 60s during dark cycle so the water really cools off. By the time the water reaches the low 70s, it's back to dark again. It's the 18/6 cycle with smaller, vegging plants when it actually runs on and off during the last 6 - 8 hours of daylight.
 
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