AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.

[JoeN]

Just mixed up a Fungal dominant brew.

I use the method of cultivating fungi in a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Add 2 tblspoons/cup of oat bran. Innoculate the mix with spores and put in 80 degree temp for 3-5 days to grow mycellium. Stuff the fungi compost in some pantyhose and brew for 18-24 hours. Try to avoid longer times because this can make your brew go bacterial. (not necessarily bad)

Fulvic Acid 2 ml/gl
Soft Rock Phosphate
Liquid Kelp 4ml/gl
Molasses .5ml/gl (very little dont want bacteria)
Humic Acid 1 ml/gl
Liquid Fish Hydrolysate 4ml/gl

This is great for flowering to increase your phosphorus solubulizing fungi. These microbes mineralize phosphorus for your plant. Guaranteed chunkier girls if you brew this!

What spores do you use to inoculate and how much Soft rock Phosphate do you use Thanks

 

[CarpeNocturnum]

Rising moon, where are you getting your herbal astrological correspondences? I'd really be able to utilize them magickally! Thanks!

 

[anzohaze]

Whats up all i been organic for a year or so no and I do my normal ewc and mollasses tes and every other I add about a 1/3 cup of neptunes harvest fish fertilizer to 4 gallons. I have not really ever made a fungi only type tea. Whats the best way to get huge fungi growth or adequate fungi growth to put in soil thanks all

 

[Julius Caesar]

Whats up all i been organic for a year or so no and I do my normal ewc and mollasses tes and every other I add about a 1/3 cup of neptunes harvest fish fertilizer to 4 gallons. I have not really ever made a fungi only type tea. Whats the best way to get huge fungi growth or adequate fungi growth to put in soil thanks all

I'm just now getting my own feet wet with organics, but from what I have reading so far cannabis prefers a slightly more bacterial balance, just like vegetables and grasses which marijuana seems to be comparable. I believe adding a small amount of alfalfa will help boost fungi to a point without being overwhelming.

My AACT is pretty simple - water, EWC, kelp, molasses

I try to put all of the goodies in the soil beforehand and let the microbes do the work for me.

 

[Julius Caesar]

The thick, slimy rings that form in the bucket daily - should I be mixing that back into the tea or scooping it out and dispose?

 

[anzohaze]

I apply the ewc and ring material stuff to my outside compost or flower bed garden

 

[cannakis]

If making a purly Bacterial then yes. But nutrient teas need nutrients to be added as well.

Never use Fungal spores (Such as Myco's) with Humic or Fulvic acid. it will kill the fungus.. use the acid one watering, then the fungus the next. feed the fungus directly into the soil... other than that your good to go

wait so what about the teas with humic and fungi? and what about soil? should i only add the mycho and water with humic? or can i add humic and then add fungi after?

 

[Pattahabi]

wait so what about the teas with humic and fungi? and what about soil? should i only add the mycho and water with humic? or can i add humic and then add fungi after?

Add mycos at transplant - not in a tea of any kind. Dust the roots if possible. Anything else is like throwing spaghetti at the wall. Remember there are humic acids in vermicompost. Imo Leonardite is a waste of time and money. If you want humics, look up BioAg.

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[cannakis]

Add mycos at transplant - not in a tea of any kind. Dust the roots if possible. Anything else is like throwing spaghetti at the wall. Remember there are humic acids in vermicompost. Imo Leonardite is a waste of time and money. If you want humics, look up BioAg.

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thanks. what about on this site the exerpt from that mycho book, they say make your Own mycho and add it tea. and bmos super plant tonic has mycho in it.

 

[Pattahabi]

thanks. what about on this site the exerpt from that mycho book, they say make your Own mycho and add it tea. and bmos super plant tonic has mycho in it.

Mycos become food stock in a tea. They need contact with roots to survive. What is that myco book? Go to scholar.google.com and type in mycorrhiza.

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[cannakis]

Mycos become food stock in a tea. They need contact with roots to survive. What is that myco book? Go to scholar.google.com and type in mycorrhiza.

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haha looks like someone needs to read the thread they suggested...! haha just kidding,but it is tje Fourth quote box on This thred entitled Fungal Compost Tea. at the bottom tip three is given by Jeff or whoever wrote the Book "Teaming With Microbes." and says to make the Fungal Compost you make your own mychos and add it to a tea with Humic acid.

 

[cannakis]

Just mixed up a Fungal dominant brew.

I use the method of cultivating fungi in a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Add 2 tblspoons/cup of oat bran. Innoculate the mix with spores and put in 80 degree temp for 3-5 days to grow mycellium. Stuff the fungi compost in some pantyhose and brew for 18-24 hours. Try to avoid longer times because this can make your brew go bacterial. (not necessarily bad)

Fulvic Acid 2 ml/gl
Soft Rock Phosphate
Liquid Kelp 4ml/gl
Molasses .5ml/gl (very little dont want bacteria)
Humic Acid 1 ml/gl
Liquid Fish Hydrolysate 4ml/gl

This is great for flowering to increase your phosphorus solubulizing fungi. These microbes mineralize phosphorus for your plant. Guaranteed chunkier girls if you brew this!

do you use a fungal tea for veg and then aforesaid receipt for flowering? or do you add your mychorrizihal

 

[Pattahabi]

haha looks like someone needs to read the thread they suggested...! haha just kidding,but it is tje Fourth quote box on This thred entitled Fungal Compost Tea. at the bottom tip three is given by Jeff or whoever wrote the Book "Teaming With Microbes." and says to make the Fungal Compost you make your own mychos and add it to a tea with Humic acid.

Sometimes Jeff is wrong.

 

[cannakis]

Sometimes Jeff is wrong.

maybe. but what about the equal ratio 1:1 of fungi:bacteria? that is what it is supposed to be for optimal chelating and absorbtion rates.and so do you not use humic or fulvic acid? i think i know what you are saying is about the tons of extra of one substance will destroy/consume the other? i mean humic acid is a natural substance of decomposition, and i am sure they both thrive in forest floors, so how are we supposed to maintain the balance? and if the mychos areaPart of the dirt i add to the tea, how i made them, so then they will be rooted and wont befloating powdered food stock. right? thats why he says the whole mycho dirt. at least this is my opinion from what i have read.

 

[Pattahabi]

maybe. but what about the equal ratio 1:1 of fungi:bacteria? that is what it is supposed to be for optimal chelating and absorbtion rates.and so do you not use humic or fulvic acid? i think i know what you are saying is about the tons of extra of one substance will destroy/consume the other? i mean humic acid is a natural substance of decomposition, and i am sure they both thrive in forest floors, so how are we supposed to maintain the balance? and if the mychos areaPart of the dirt i add to the tea, how i made them, so then they will be rooted and wont befloating powdered food stock. right? thats why he says the whole mycho dirt. at least this is my opinion from what i have read.

I foliar with fulvic acid, I do not add it to my teas. Your vermicompost will have humic acids. Imo leonardite does not count as humic acid. Mycorrhizae need roots to survive. There are many articles to support this.The plant will dictate whether bacteria or fungi survive in the rizosphere. Per Tim Wilson:

By testing some ingredients independently in a liquid I observed;

1/ that humic acid in varying dilutions does not feed any sort of microscopically visible microbe. I observed that it actually suppresses microbial division and growth. This was confirmed by joint testing with Keep It Simple Inc. (KIS) in the Seattle area. We tested two of the most effective and popular brands. I cannot say definitively that all brands of humic acid will have similar suppressive effects in a liquid (ACT) but it is enough for me to discontinue using it or recommending it as an ACT foodstock. Please note that this does not mean that it is not good to use on/in soil….just not ACT.

2/ that kelp meal initially delays all microbial development in a liquid but does feed fungi and bacteria/archaea following 24 hours. If too much is used the effects are suppressive. From this I garnered that it should be used very sparingly and one must be prepared to brew a little longer if using this foodstock. Again, this does not mean that kelp meal is not a good thing to use in/on soil. It definitely is!

3/ black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria. This led to all sorts of misconceptions, even including ones made by USDA and Canada Agriculture scientists who declared that using molasses in ACT could lead to e-coli contamination. It is utter nonsense. Besides the testing I have done and ratifying assays carried out by KIS, it is common knowledge amongst many mycologists like Paul Stamets that BSM grows out fungal hyphae just fine.

4/ fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea again contrary to the story at the time that it is mainly a fungal food. (I’m glad to see that story has now changed)

5/ alfalfa meal is also a decent all round foodstock which sometimes introduces protozoa cysts to the ACT. KIS has done more testing on this than I have.


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[Dank Raptor]

do you use a fungal tea for veg and then aforesaid receipt for flowering? or do you add your mychorrizihal

For veg I use water only and when I brew its usually some EWC, microbes (biozeus or Oregonism) and molasses. I usually use the same recipe for flowering every couple weeks. Mycorrhizae is sprinkled in at xplant and also watered in from time to time. I don't do all the work of cultivating fungi anymore but it is still a great method and it will treat you well if you try the recipe. The idea of cultivating fungi before brewing was taken from the book Teaming with Microbes. Let me know if you have any other questions. For the soft rock phosphate you can use humboldt nutrients natural bloom which is 0-10-0 and is a mix of soft rock phosphate and kelp composted in a bottle. Its a nice shortcut.

 

[cannakis]

For veg I use water only and when I brew its usually some EWC, microbes (biozeus or Oregonism) and molasses. I usually use the same recipe for flowering every couple weeks. Mycorrhizae is sprinkled in at xplant and also watered in from time to time. I don't do all the work of cultivating fungi anymore but it is still a great method and it will treat you well if you try the recipe. The idea of cultivating fungi before brewing was taken from the book Teaming with Microbes. Let me know if you have any other questions. For the soft rock phosphate you can use humboldt nutrients natural bloom which is 0-10-0 and is a mix of soft rock phosphate and kelp composted in a bottle. Its a nice shortcut.

Thanks so, excited to try out the tea.

Can you ever have/add too much fungi?

 

[Dank Raptor]

Thanks so, excited to try out the tea.

Can you ever have/add too much fungi?

No you can't overdue it. Your plants will only associate with the fungi that it wants to.

 

[cannakis]

No you can't overdue it. Your plants will only associate with the fungi that it wants to.

cool thanks so much brother!

 

[SpaaaceCowboy]

If I put kelp in a tea mix does it have to brew longer than 24 hours ? I read that the kelp delays microbial development for 24 hours ?