Open Show & Tell , Outdoors 2014

a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking about growing some autos once the kush is harvested in mid september. Apparently we'll have a dry end of year here in the tropic, so the weather might be ideal for some autos outside :eyesmoke::eyesmoke:
Thinking about strains, what would ya'll recommend?

Think Different is a personal fave, but there's a couple different phenos for it :-\

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a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
Dutch Passion? Their catalogue looks great.
Yup.

I've tried a couple of theirs, I believe it was Afghan Kush Ryder and White Widow Auto and Think Different.

TD would be great outdoors, and will probably yield big too.

Its one of them fancy autos. I don't think its that fancy I just think they did a great job of isolating genetics and back crossing. Breeding FTW!

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a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
Also, regarding flushing.

Quoted from qwizoking
let me help...




I use the "worst" nutes you can buy,
but I know how nutes effect the plant and burn qualities so I only look at types of nutes and ratios.no crackling here and black ash is a bad cure

When wood is heated anaerobically, it turns black as the water is driven off, leaving charcoal, or carbon, behind. When charcoal burns in air, the carbon combines with oxygen, producing carbon dioxide gas. But if you have ever used a charcoal grill,you will noticed that charcoal turns white as it burns. This white ash is what remains of the non-flammable minerals which were present in the wood to begin with. You don't really notice them until the carbon has burned away. These ashes have a composition which varies according to the kind of wood and the soil in which it grew, and it is this variable composition which marks ash as a mixture rather than apure substance.
Ash is literally the nutes.
that anaerobic burning is what causes butane lighters to produce soot or that black stuff if you put the flame under something, propane burns wonderfully clean but as you add carbon it needs more oxygen, as you go up it won't burn properly unless you add an oxidizer.. this is also why BIC lighters are only about 500 degrees instead of 3500 or whatever butane likes to burn at..(bics design limits oxygen,if you have a torch for dabbing with an adjuster you know what I'm talking about)

...flushing is debated alot around here but its proven that it doesn't lower nutes in your bud it causes the plant to form an abscission layer in the fan leaves(Google it) to preserve nutes in the bud, you'll notice the bud is last to yellow...
The white ash is literally the nutes and nutes are actually good and improve the burn qualities,yes my ash burns to white..potassium for example expands when hot and helps it burn much more efficiently.. calcium adds weight and mass to the ash while making it whiter but too much makes it flakey.. sulphur ,ammonical n and chlorinated nutes negatively impact burn qualities etc etc I mean the tobacco industry laid it all out for us already, we just have to modify how we cure as we are dealing with volatile compounds and understanding what we are after isn't anitrate but phosphate(terpenes come from phosphates). No other crop is flushed including tobacco so that you get the best burn, yield and quality..the cure is very important But fresh herb barely dry enough to smoke with no cure doesn't crackle much except for the moisture and resin but leaves it black Flushing is counterproductive imo and only serves to foxtail my landrace Sativas

the cure is important and the fowl taste associated with not flushing is simply a poor cure..a harsh hot acrid taste is from burning starches and chlorophyll....also associated with newbs overfeeding making the cure that much harder..keeping the plant moist enough to stay alive and still maintain gas transfer..through this natural process of hydrolysis and respiration the components are broken down and becomes smooth..this process is known as the cure

Night and day difference in curing ..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner tasting/cleaner feeling high
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a higher ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and consistent moisture content, even slow burn and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn
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treemansbuds

Well-Known Member
Am I supposed to flush my plants before harvesting?
TIA :-)
Meh.. If you are pumping it full of nutes then yes but otherwise I do not flush.
It's a preference. Some people swear by it but I haven't done it in the last 2 seasons outdoors. Indoors I do as I push them towards the end.
I only flush one thing. TOILET
Hey Sam do as you wish, but I always flush, especially if using heavy fertilizers, like Maxsea! I guess it's technically it's not a flush, but my last 3-4 feedings are teas and not the Maxsea. I find it gives my flowers a better taste. My partner pushes the Maxsea until the end and I can taste the difference.
I guess my theory is; Push the Maxsea to get the plants/buds big and healthy, then push the teas to flush the Maxsea and increase the flavor of the buds at the end.
My 2 cents....
TMB-
 

S'Manta

Well-Known Member
Hey Sam do as you wish, but I always flush, especially if using heavy fertilizers, like Maxsea! I guess it's technically it's not a flush, but my last 3-4 feedings are teas and not the Maxsea. I find it gives my flowers a better taste. My partner pushes the Maxsea until the end and I can taste the difference.
I guess my theory is; Push the Maxsea to get the plants/buds big and healthy, then push the teas to flush the Maxsea and increase the flavor of the buds at the end.
My 2 cents....
TMB-
Thanks, TMB, I think your answer and reasons and your taste test add valuable information to my final decision, whatever that is. I make an alfalfa tea concoction in a garbage can and I give everybody varying amounts every few days. Blue Dream will be harvested next so she's on a tea and water diet until her execution. :-)
 

treemansbuds

Well-Known Member
Thanks, TMB, I think your answer and reasons and your taste test add valuable information to my final decision, whatever that is. I make an alfalfa tea concoction in a garbage can and I give everybody varying amounts every few days. Blue Dream will be harvested next so she's on a tea and water diet until her execution. :-)
My teas get tweeked all the time, but
Forest Humus
Mushroom compost
Earth worm castings
Molasses
Alfalfas meal (flowering)
seaweed extract
Bat Guano (low or no nitrogen 0-10-2 or there abouts)
Dr Earths Bloom booster.
All goes into a 5 gallon paint strainer, then that giant tea bag goes into a 33 gallon trash can with air pumps for aeration. Brew for 24-36 hours at about 75-85 degrees (in my insulated shed). Then I feed about 3-4 gallons each, then I water on top on the feeding.
Of course you don't need 30 gallons of tea at a time, just adjust to your needs.
TMB-
 

S'Manta

Well-Known Member
I flush the last 2 weeks and only give molasses and worm casting water.

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Wooten, when you say flush the last two weeks, what do you mean by that? Do you flood them with copious amounts of water or just water and your molasses and WC tea at regular amounts?
:-)
 
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