SomeGuy
Well-Known Member
No offence. But I have been growing Hempy for a bit, I think I got it down.
DIY LED Grow Light Vero 18 (Economy light)
- Thread starter SomeGuy
- Start date
indianajones
Well-Known Member
looks like you have pH problems, not extreme, but slightly.
indianajones
Well-Known Member
a plant's use of calmag doesn't cause leaf curl on new growth
the way your photos exhibit. pH problems cause that leaf curl.
the first nutrient a plant locks out from a pH problem is calcium,
that might be why you're interpreting it as a calcium problem.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
You have a lot to learn.
The lights are too close or there's overkill in lights. Thats whats causing the leaf curl. If it was a ph issue there would be several deficiencies and possibly nute lock out.. They look healthy as can be. The first nute to lock out is not calcium. There so many variables to cause a lock out. Too much potassium or magnesium could cause calcium lock out and vice versa. How much ph is off determines the defs and lock out. The first sign of calcium lock out will show a calcium deficiency. Which would show by several rust spots appearing erratically. I don't see a single rust spot nor any discoloration on the edge of the leaves. A lot of people misdiagnose cal / mag defs that are actually molybdenum defs. Which is cause by lack of potassium and / or light bleaching. Full nute lock out leaves would be in the shape of talons. Now if the tips of the leaves start to hook. Thats an early sign of nitrogen toxicity
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SomeGuy
Well-Known Member
I know its not pH.... Lol. I'm been doing things a certain way for a long while.
It is from heat. Lights off temps being higher than lights on actually. No buggy but the heat does do it.
....the other thing I was going to say.... Fuck... Too high. Lol.
Oh. Cal mag... All led grows require more from what I understand.
Regardless... Gonna be a full tent.to chop in about 6 weeks.
It is from heat. Lights off temps being higher than lights on actually. No buggy but the heat does do it.
....the other thing I was going to say.... Fuck... Too high. Lol.
Oh. Cal mag... All led grows require more from what I understand.
Regardless... Gonna be a full tent.to chop in about 6 weeks.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Were the optics the only reason you decided to not go with the cxm18? Im looking at the luminus 18 and 27.Thank You Guod.
Very interested in this thread now since I'm on the verge of getting 6 Vero 18s. Was going with the Luminus 18 but had some problems and I think I'm better off with the Vero 18s now especially since I want to use some kind of secondary optics which there are little for the CXM-18 atm. Great show btw SomeGuy.
FranJan
Well-Known Member
^^^Not the only. Yes there are more accessories and such for the Vero line and since these COBs are not the primary light source for me I do feel I need to use some optics but also because the drivers I want to use will work better with the Vero 18 line.
But in actuallity if a certain company didn't drop the ball I would of already have some CXM18s so mixed blessings. Should have my Veros by Mon or Tues btw. Yaaaa I get to polish heatsinks all weekend . Weeeeeeee , not
.
But in actuallity if a certain company didn't drop the ball I would of already have some CXM18s so mixed blessings. Should have my Veros by Mon or Tues btw. Yaaaa I get to polish heatsinks all weekend . Weeeeeeee , not
.
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DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Can you elaborate? I'm trying to order from mouser but having a hard time matching a driver to the cxm1830.^^^Not the only. Yes there are more accessories and such for the Vero line and since these COBs are not the primary light source for me I do feel I need to use some optics but also because the drivers I want to use will work better with the Vero 18 line.
But in actuallity if a certain company didn't drop the ball I would of already have some CXM18s so mixed blessings. Should have my Veros by Mon or Tues btw. Yaaaa I get to polish heatsinks all weekend . Weeeeeeee , not
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
If you want to use cxm-18 series, you should probably run them somewhere between 600-800mA, which means voltage requirements between somewhere between 33-36V.
This will power one of them:
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/APC-25-700/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvV8Y9YugmIguuQ%2bUe7cpZU4J6ABzM/mGY=
This will power one of them:
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/APC-25-700/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvV8Y9YugmIguuQ%2bUe7cpZU4J6ABzM/mGY=
FranJan
Well-Known Member
Yeah DonP I gotta bunch of 900mA CC drivers that put out 24 to 38 volts just sitting around so I'd figure it's time for me to play with these COBs and I'd put them to work. I'm looking for a more Supra like higher efficiency type setup so I'd rather run under spec'd than over which favors the Vero more than the CXMs and looking not to create a lot of heat so running the CXM would put a bit of stress on the drivers I'm using, XC-PF30As for the record, and create more heat in my grow area. So to me it's the driver's dictating my choice in COBs which is OK for now.
I'm not a big fan of Mouser.com. Have you tried Digi-Key? They're pains in the asses too but have a better selection than Mouser IMO.
Have you tried TCRElectronics? Ask them for some advice.
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/power-supply-led.shtml
I'm not a big fan of Mouser.com. Have you tried Digi-Key? They're pains in the asses too but have a better selection than Mouser IMO.
Have you tried TCRElectronics? Ask them for some advice.
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/power-supply-led.shtml
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I like mouser's search/filter system.
Then you can use octopart to find the best price.
A lot of these electronics stores have very weird shipping policies where the figure out shipping on the spot. It always seems like i'm going to get scammed, but then costs what i'd expect.
Then you can use octopart to find the best price.
A lot of these electronics stores have very weird shipping policies where the figure out shipping on the spot. It always seems like i'm going to get scammed, but then costs what i'd expect.
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
I must be learning something cuz thats the one i had selected. Thanks man. Decisions decisions.
Actually now im considering the vero18 now after checking out someguy's link. I like the smaller size of the driver church linked as i want to mount it on the heatsink but i can work with either one. The vero is cheaper too and im a cheap bastard. Maybe do a side by side eventually.
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Vero18 with http://m.ebay.ca/itm/111252011567?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
??
??
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
He's just driving each vero 18 relatively hard. If you got 1400mA drivers, I think cxm-18 would be more analgous to someguy's vero18 setup.
I actually use vero 29 at 1050mA, which is very underdriven. I've heard from the gurus here vero 29 likes to be driven hard, but my driver situation currently doesn't allow it, and then I'd need to make my flower box taller because I'd have to keep them farther from the canopy. These things put off enough light to burn.
I actually use vero 29 at 1050mA, which is very underdriven. I've heard from the gurus here vero 29 likes to be driven hard, but my driver situation currently doesn't allow it, and then I'd need to make my flower box taller because I'd have to keep them farther from the canopy. These things put off enough light to burn.
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AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
I just ordered a few BridgeLUX V18's from Digikey.com and plan on hooking them up to two different generic 50Watt drivers, similar to SomeGuy's DIY setup. I considered 35W but I found a few cheaper 50W's. They should each drive those V18's just around 35~40W a piece.
Now to come up with some sort of housing design; one that hasn't been showcased before.
