Superstoner's new 3 rail, 50gal system, 36-40oz every 2 weeks.

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
Thx SS I have raised the nutes to 1.2 ec. Its wierd as they seemed to be starving at the end of the first week. They were very pale and turning white at leaf tips. Looking much better now. The last runs were happy at 1.2-3 for mid flower. Its like starting from scratch lol.
 
No problem,glad I was able to contribute.
ok so My relay arrived....I read the instructions you posted....Also looked at a pic posted by SS in '12...

That being said I need some help with this, the relay I have (one recommended in earlier post) looks too different from what's in the instructions for me to figure it out. Where do the connectors go into?
 

Tone5500

Well-Known Member
ok so My relay arrived....I read the instructions you posted....Also looked at a pic posted by SS in '12...

That being said I need some help with this, the relay I have (one recommended in earlier post) looks too different from what's in the instructions for me to figure it out. Where do the connectors go into?
Just think of the relay as a splitter between your timer and the wired plug or surge protector
 

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
Ok, I'm out of town again but I'll try and help. The relay has 2 arms that click down to make contact this allows current to flow. If using a single power source (say 1 15a outlet) take a 3 prong power cord and cut it in half. There will be a black, white, and green wire, the green wire is ground and will not go through relay. Attach the white and black cables of the cord with the plug on it to the relay posts white on one post black on other but on same side of relay. On other side of relay attach the white and black wires of cord to opposite contacts, so that when coil is energized the arms pull down allowing current to flow white to white and black to black. It's like installing a power outlet or wall switch, power to one side and when switched on the light works when switched off they dont, same with relay but it is switched with electricty. So now you have one side with the cord that plugs into wall attached to contacts and on other side the rest of cord that will go to pumps or provide power. The green wire is just spliced together off of the relay. To energize the coil to engage the relay you need a 2 prong cord like for a toaster or table light. It is attached to the coil contacts in middle of relay so when plugged in or timer kicks on it pulls arms down making contact. If wanting to use 2 power sources use only the white wires and you will need 2 3 prong cords. Just splice black together off relay.
 

Tone5500

Well-Known Member
SS I remember you saying you run dwc buckets as well , how often do you change out ,I'm only adding 50 ppm RO back to the bucket im going on about ten days now how low would you recommend me letting the ppms get before change out i start the buckets at 550 I'm using the plants as mothers there 4 weeks old using your nute recipe thanx
 

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
Ewwww I can see a dead short happening here lol. You guys have to be real careful here :0. There's lots of google stuff with actual pics on how to wire relays and contactors that may help. Try searching "HVAC wiring relays and contactors" lots of pics that may help!
 
Ok, I'm out of town again but I'll try and help. The relay has 2 arms that click down to make contact this allows current to flow. If using a single power source (say 1 15a outlet) take a 3 prong power cord and cut it in half. There will be a black, white, and green wire, the green wire is ground and will not go through relay. Attach the white and black cables of the cord with the plug on it to the relay posts white on one post black on other but on same side of relay. On other side of relay attach the white and black wires of cord to opposite contacts, so that when coil is energized the arms pull down allowing current to flow white to white and black to black. It's like installing a power outlet or wall switch, power to one side and when switched on the light works when switched off they dont, same with relay but it is switched with electricty. So now you have one side with the cord that plugs into wall attached to contacts and on other side the rest of cord that will go to pumps or provide power. The green wire is just spliced together off of the relay. To energize the coil to engage the relay you need a 2 prong cord like for a toaster or table light. It is attached to the coil contacts in middle of relay so when plugged in or timer kicks on it pulls arms down making contact. If wanting to use 2 power sources use only the white wires and you will need 2 3 prong cords. Just splice black together off relay.

Thank you SS and chunky. Waterdawg appreciate the input, just not really familiar with the electrical lingo to quite get what you're sayin
 

chunkylonin

Well-Known Member
From looking at your pics and reading ss instructions,it makes sense to me and I dont know how else to explain it,or for it to make sense to you,sorry man.If you still cant get it,find electrian on craigslist and pay him 30 bucks to build it for you.
 
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chunkylonin

Well-Known Member
Which all in one tool do you guys recommend for building the systems?
What do you mean by all in one tool?Because you need a drill(with different cutting bits),saw saz (or hand saw with pvc blade),measureing tape,etc ,and alot of it is connecting and putting together,which go for alot of these systems.If your following ss instructions to build his system,then use whats comfortable and familiar with other projects you"ve done and apply it to this.
 

chunkylonin

Well-Known Member
You think this is hard,try replacing a despard switch from the 30s,that have 6 wires going to it with 4 hot lines.That damn old switch has 2 single pole and a 3-way switch.I have to cut the old box out of the wall because the old switch is just a 3 toggle switch that just barely fits into the single box in the wall and then replace with a bigger box that holds 2 switches.I wanted to go with something more modern (redoing kitchen),Ill have to replace the old switch with 2 seperate switches (double and a 3-way).I also made the rookie mistake of not taking a picture of it together befor taking it apart,so I have the fun task of figuring out which wires control garage power,out side backdoor light and inside back door light,and basement light.

Sorry for the rant lol.
 

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
You think this is hard,try replacing a despard switch from the 30s,that have 6 wires going to it with 4 hot lines.That damn old switch has 2 single pole and a 3-way switch.I have to cut the old box out of the wall because the old switch is just a 3 toggle switch that just barely fits into the single box in the wall and then replace with a bigger box that holds 2 switches.I wanted to go with something more modern (redoing kitchen),Ill have to replace the old switch with 2 seperate switches (double and a 3-way).I also made the rookie mistake of not taking a picture of it together befor taking it apart,so I have the fun task of figuring out which wires control garage power,out side backdoor light and inside back door light,and basement light.

Sorry for the rant lol.
Good luck with that lol. Two guys and a continuity tester goes along ways. I do complexed control wiring and have a hell if a time figuring out 3-4 way switches lol.
 

chunkylonin

Well-Known Member
Good luck with that lol. Two guys and a continuity tester goes along ways. I do complexed control wiring and have a hell if a time figuring out 3-4 way switches lol.
Tore into it today and it only took about an hour to figure out which wires go where,once I figured out which wires were for the garage and backdoor lights,I knew the 3-way would be for the basement lights.
 
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