HPS, MH, Floros, Phillips Cermamic Metal Halide has 'em all beat.

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
UVB can't penetrate glass, therefore it's lost....
But it makes through the glass of the bulb? Help me understand that.

I've seen both independant opinions as well as real tests on footprint and focused light from different reflectors, I've never seen a Cool Tube come out on top or close to it. I understand that there are set ups that people build that they may need one because of size, ventilation, ease of use, lack of engineering ability, or something, but, I've never seen any commericial growers using them in a large set up. I'm just guessing, I don't grow at that level, but, Im pretty sure it's because a large hood has always been shown to be better. Cool Tubes are cheaper then large reflectors, so why don't the pro's use them? I know the reasons I've read but, I'm certainly open to hearing how they maybe wrong.

For those of you that don't remember, I'm the one that started this thread. I've been through veg and flower with a 400 watt CMH bulb. I don't flower under the CMH anymore, for no other reason than I have a flowering room running 1000 watt bulbs. I do still use it for veging in the cabinet. MH doesn't compare for vegging, I saw it for myself. As for flowering, I can't give a true opinion, I have not flowered under 400 watts HPS at any point to be able to compare the differance.
A cool tube is curved glass, so the optic index is skewed. You have the natural index (usually about 1.52) then adding in the curve.
With a flat glass (air cooled hood) all you have is the 1.52 index and any coating that might (probably not) are on the glass.
 

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
But it makes through the glass of the bulb? Help me understand that.



A cool tube is curved glass, so the optic index is skewed. You have the natural index (usually about 1.52) then adding in the curve.
With a flat glass (air cooled hood) all you have is the 1.52 index and any coating that might (probably not) are on the glass.
Yeah, I don't believe the UVB argument unless the bulb material is quartz. Otherwise, it's filtered to begin with by the bulb glass.

A cool tube would actually do better than the flat piece of glass, as the light is always going through it perpendicular, whereas with a flat plate, it goes through more glass at the wider angles. It's not the index of refraction, but the absorption, which is proportional to path length. This is of course assuming that the glass is of similar quality and thickness.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I don't believe the UVB argument unless the bulb material is quartz. Otherwise, it's filtered to begin with by the bulb glass.

Actually it is quartz, one of the main reasons you aren't supposed to touch them.

Footnote we did coatings for sub periscopes. they were like 2 inches thick. Had to warm it up and cool it down overnight; prior/post coating. Big piece of quartz.
 

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
Actually it is quartz, one of the main reasons you aren't supposed to touch them.

Footnote we did coatings for sub periscopes. they were like 2 inches thick. Had to warm it up and cool it down overnight; prior/post coating. Big piece of quartz.
If it's quartz and the pane is tempered glass, the UVB argument def makes sense. Normal glass absorbs below 300nm or so.
 

ThatOneDude

Well-Known Member
A cool tube is curved glass, so the optic index is skewed. You have the natural index (usually about 1.52) then adding in the curve.
With a flat glass (air cooled hood) all you have is the 1.52 index and any coating that might (probably not) are on the glass.
Yeah....you're talking way over my head with that brother. I thought about the bent glass and that has to bend and distort light spectrums but I'm not that knowledgable about the specifics to speak on what it effects. The testing that I have seen all said the same thing about cool tubes, unless it's what best suited for your application, go with a larger hood and skip the cool tube. I guess the real question would be, what difference would it make to yeild, I'm guessing, unless you're a real pro with everything else dialed in with pin point accuracy, you might see some small difference in weight but nothing to write about. For 90% of the growers out there, I bet they wouldn't see any difference at all. I say do whatever you have to do to get the bulb as close to the canopy as you can, after that, worry more about neuts, ph and keeping everything else in check and you'll be better off.

As for the UVB part, let me give you my personal experience, take from it what you will. Ever put you hand under a HPS or MH bulb and have your skin start itching? You will when you put any exposed skin under a CMH bulb. Within a few minutes your exposed skin will start with the same feeling as sunburn or the itch after a bee sting. I didn't realize it at first and no one had mentioned it at the time, when I posted it on another forum, people started chiming in, everything from a sun burn feeling to OPEN LESIONS. Some itched so badly, they scratched until they bled. How does the UVB penetrate the glass bulb.....I don't know but, I am 100% sure that it does. This also ties into the famous comment I see on lighting thread where someone throws up a comment about outside and clouds blocking light, clouds don't block uv light. Ever seen someone wearing glasses that tint in uv light, clouds don't cut UV light but they do cut lumens....but that gets us back to the "cmh doesn't have the lumen output that HPS does".....right but lumens are the measurment of brightness to the EYE....plants don't have eyes, but there's no denying that they use UV light! Late into flower the plant produce trichs to protect itself from the UV burn.

As for the CMH bulb, it's a discussion that remains split on other forums as well as here. Some people say this, and what about that and hey, look at all this tech jargon 95% of the people don't understand anyway......whatever. The bulb is a great all around bulb. If you have heat issues within reason, it will lower temps. It's agreed to be better then MH in veg and flower. From what I've seen most people like it that use it, I have seen a few, that said they were going back to HPS but they are far and few inbetween.
:peace:
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
I don't have any reason to disbelieve the heat argument, I just didn't see any data to show it. That's why I'm trying to get people to compare their HPS, MH, and CMH bulbs at certain distances from the bulb. If it is that much cooler, it is absolutely a benefit for cab growers. You can't argue that.

The cooltube is somewhat more expensive, but I don't have to add as much other circulation ventilation, as the blower does that for me. The can-fan and ducting I got were dirt cheap - thrown in with my light - so i'm unsure they cost new. I don't think they're expensive at all at HD, but again I don't know. Maybe 30-40 bucks

Still don't undersand the UVB thing.

So do you have a MH to compare the CMH with in terms of heat? I imagine that a lot of the heat from the HPS comes from the fact that it is so heavy in the red/IR.
Hey man why are you always spouting about data this and poof that... But where is your proof that an HPS is better than a CMH for flowering. Have you done a side by side run with scientific equipment, keeping records, and accounting for all variables? I think you are one of those guy that I always see on one of my PC forums I am a member of. You know one of those trolls that likes to ster thing up, and doubt EVERYTHING. I bet I could come to your house with hard evidence and proof and you would still be like yo where the proof I can only see incunclusive data and crap. As far as heat goes... well I know what heat feels like, I don't need any equipment to prove that the CMH is a bit cooler, and does not throw it's heat all around. It like this do you need a thermometer to tell the your freezer is colder than your fridge? Probably not the ice and just the plain feel of the freezer should let you know it cooler right? Well apply that to the CMH, when I open my small little cabinet and it FEELS cooler and the temps are lower on the digi termometer. I would have to say that yes it is definately cooler. I really can't say if it is a better bulb, but I can say that I like it a hell of a lot more than my Horti bulb. It's cooler a better color IMO, and I never have to change out my bulb lol. Nobody here is trying to sell you anything so just move along to another thread, and go look for proof on your own... report back when you find something interesting. Those of us that already have these bulbs going love them and those that don't may or may not be interested. In any event If you don't care then just happily move along.

For the record my tone is NOT angry or offensive. It is very subtle so please DO NOT COME BACK AND BASH ME.
 

chronic123

Active Member
I like that I can spend half as much on a bulbs and ballasts and get nearly the same and maybe more yield from one ballast and one bulb. It may not be better than an HPS but the CMH beats the HPS in vegging hands down. I can get nearly the same yield as a HPS as I can with a CMH. I will admit that the HPS has a slightly higher yield and is also slightly higher heat.

I think it is stupid to have a debate about which is better because they are all good bulbs, and do the job very well. For me there is not enough difference to make it an issue. For me it was an easy decision... one bulb, one ballast, all grow long, and a slight amount of less heat (not much trust me).

can u buy the ballasts with the CMH on the site?
 

HydroChron

Well-Known Member
just go with any S51 400w Mettalic coil ballast. Make sure you have the ignightor and the cap. They should come with a wiring diagram or you could find one on-line
 

lukaszqaz

Active Member
Do you really think that HPS Retro-White 400W bulb is better for flowering than normal HPS like GIB Flower Spectre DELUXE hps? Better spectrum is very well for VEG time, but don’t forget that 600-700nm spectrum is more used to produce bigger, tasty buds and too much veg spectrum and other, is waste power for FLOW.

34800lm score is much worst than simply 56000 lumens for normal, good bulb, and better spectrum could be not enough to recompense waste lumens.
Anyway, we have also Hortilux Super Blue Dual Arc Lamp!

Edit:
Horizontal option is available for Phillips bulb Retro White so this isn't problem already.
 
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ThatOneDude

Well-Known Member
Yeah....you're talking way over my head with that brother. I thought about the bent glass and that has to bend and distort light spectrums but I'm not that knowledgable about the specifics to speak on what it effects. The testing that I have seen all said the same thing about cool tubes, unless it's what best suited for your application, go with a larger hood and skip the cool tube. I guess the real question would be, what difference would it make to yeild, I'm guessing, unless you're a real pro with everything else dialed in with pin point accuracy, you might see some small difference in weight but nothing to write about. For 90% of the growers out there, I bet they wouldn't see any difference at all. I say do whatever you have to do to get the bulb as close to the canopy as you can, after that, worry more about neuts, ph and keeping everything else in check and you'll be better off.

As for the UVB part, let me give you my personal experience, take from it what you will. Ever put you hand under a HPS or MH bulb and have your skin start itching? You will when you put any exposed skin under a CMH bulb. Within a few minutes your exposed skin will start with the same feeling as sunburn or the itch after a bee sting. I didn't realize it at first and no one had mentioned it at the time, when I posted it on another forum, people started chiming in, everything from a sun burn feeling to OPEN LESIONS. Some itched so badly, they scratched until they bled. How does the UVB penetrate the glass bulb.....I don't know but, I am 100% sure that it does. This also ties into the famous comment I see on lighting thread where someone throws up a comment about outside and clouds blocking light, clouds don't block uv light. Ever seen someone wearing glasses that tint in uv light, clouds don't cut UV light but they do cut lumens....but that gets us back to the "cmh doesn't have the lumen output that HPS does".....right but lumens are the measurment of brightness to the EYE....plants don't have eyes, but there's no denying that they use UV light! Late into flower the plant produce trichs to protect itself from the UV burn.

As for the CMH bulb, it's a discussion that remains split on other forums as well as here. Some people say this, and what about that and hey, look at all this tech jargon 95% of the people don't understand anyway......whatever. The bulb is a great all around bulb. If you have heat issues within reason, it will lower temps. It's agreed to be better then MH in veg and flower. From what I've seen most people like it that use it, I have seen a few, that said they were going back to HPS but they are far and few inbetween.
:peace:

Hey kids, back again with a simple test to back up what I said about the bulb putting out UV light......if eyeglasses tint in the sun because of the UV light, they should do the same under a CMH bulb. I got a pair of tinting glasses from a friend. Outside they tinted pretty dark, most likely their max took about a minute and a half. I left them under an 1000 watt HPS light, of course, nothing happend. I put them in my clone cab under 105 watts, mixed spectrum CFL bulbs, again, nothing. I was holding them in my hand adjusting something in the clone cab and my arm was hanging in the light from the CMH, YES, they tinted wherever lenses were not covered by my hand. When I put them under the light bulb itself, they tinted at least twice as fast as they when I had them outside and just as dark.

I'm sure there will be someone that wants to chime in and say it's a bunk test but, it was a simple one, and it backs up what I've said about the UV output of the bulb to me. :bigjoint:

As for the comment on Trichs, I'll see that one for myself in about 3 months. Last time it was Grape Krush under the CMH light, this time they veg under it and go under 1000 watts HPS to flower.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Hey kids, back again with a simple test to back up what I said about the bulb putting out UV light......if eyeglasses tint in the sun because of the UV light, they should do the same under a CMH bulb. I got a pair of tinting glasses from a friend. Outside they tinted pretty dark, most likely their max took about a minute and a half. I left them under an 1000 watt HPS light, of course, nothing happend. I put them in my clone cab under 105 watts, mixed spectrum CFL bulbs, again, nothing. I was holding them in my hand adjusting something in the clone cab and my arm was hanging in the light from the CMH, YES, they tinted wherever lenses were not covered by my hand. When I put them under the light bulb itself, they tinted at least twice as fast as they when I had them outside and just as dark.

I'm sure there will be someone that wants to chime in and say it's a bunk test but, it was a simple one, and it backs up what I've said about the UV output of the bulb to me. :bigjoint:

As for the comment on Trichs, I'll see that one for myself in about 3 months. Last time it was Grape Krush under the CMH light, this time they veg under it and go under 1000 watts HPS to flower.
Actually that ain't a bad test! Not sure if the lenses respond to UVA or UVB, bit a great test nonetheless! (I guess I should since I was in the eyeglass biz for a short spell, cheap ass optics!!!! Single vision polycarb lenses cost the doctor $8 a pair!, the auto-tint or progressive a different story)

Fast forward, I never ran UV on quartz glass. That place really only hung in the visible range, and 'hot mirrors' to reflect the IR back at the source and just let the visible through. (that was a cool coating; 8 hours and 30+ layers)
 

ThatOneDude

Well-Known Member
Actually that ain't a bad test! Not sure if the lenses respond to UVA or UVB, bit a great test nonetheless! (I guess I should since I was in the eyeglass biz for a short spell, cheap ass optics!!!! Single vision polycarb lenses cost the doctor $8 a pair!, the auto-tint or progressive a different story)

Fast forward, I never ran UV on quartz glass. That place really only hung in the visible range, and 'hot mirrors' to reflect the IR back at the source and just let the visible through. (that was a cool coating; 8 hours and 30+ layers)
I actually didn't even think of the idea until after I read what I had posted. It's not much of a test but it showed that the CMH does put out UV light, and it's alteast it's a starting point for you tech guys that talk over most of our heads. If you have any ideas, or simple tests that you want to see, just ask and I'll try to get it done and results posted.
 

ThatOneDude

Well-Known Member
Do you really think that HPS Retro-White 400W bulb is better for flowering than normal HPS like GIB Flower Spectre DELUXE hps? Better spectrum is very well for VEG time, but don’t forget that 600-700nm spectrum is more used to produce bigger, tasty buds and too much veg spectrum and other, is waste power for FLOW.

34800lm score is much worst than simply 56000 lumens for normal, good bulb, and better spectrum could be not enough to recompense waste lumens.
Anyway, we have also Hortilux Super Blue Dual Arc Lamp!

Edit: Horizontal option is available for Phillips bulb Retro White so this isn't problem already.
:o....huh? So you have a Hortilux Super Blue Arc Blub, cool dude. I didn't really get much else, can you define/clarify FLOW?
 

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
Hey kids, back again with a simple test to back up what I said about the bulb putting out UV light......if eyeglasses tint in the sun because of the UV light, they should do the same under a CMH bulb. I got a pair of tinting glasses from a friend. Outside they tinted pretty dark, most likely their max took about a minute and a half. I left them under an 1000 watt HPS light, of course, nothing happend. I put them in my clone cab under 105 watts, mixed spectrum CFL bulbs, again, nothing. I was holding them in my hand adjusting something in the clone cab and my arm was hanging in the light from the CMH, YES, they tinted wherever lenses were not covered by my hand. When I put them under the light bulb itself, they tinted at least twice as fast as they when I had them outside and just as dark.

I'm sure there will be someone that wants to chime in and say it's a bunk test but, it was a simple one, and it backs up what I've said about the UV output of the bulb to me. :bigjoint:

As for the comment on Trichs, I'll see that one for myself in about 3 months. Last time it was Grape Krush under the CMH light, this time they veg under it and go under 1000 watts HPS to flower.
I'd totally buy this anyway, but I use an instrument (a UV-Vis spectrometer) that really couldn't be better designed to test this. Samples run on glass vs. quartz support your results. I'd have to dig into my old spectra to see exactly where the quartz starts to absorb vs. glass as you reduce wavelength toward UV, but this is precisely why quartz is used to test the absorbance of solid-state and solution samples.
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
No. The 150w and smaller CMH lamps run off a pulse start metal halide ballast.



Here is what I understand about the needed ballasts for CMH:

250w and 400w Philips Mastercolor CMH (HPS-Retro White) ------> regular magnetic HPS ballast (ANSI code S50 for 250w, S51 for 400w). Or a digital ballast specifically made for CMH, not the standard digital ballasts we see used in horticulture.

150w and smaller Philips Mastercolor CMH ------> pulse start metal halide magnetic ballast (must be pulse start). Or a digital MH ballast should work but who's got one of those.
 
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