I am doing a 4x8 with 12 plants ideally. I'm thinking now that I will be doing a mix of LED and Philips Elite Agro CMHs
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Bad Karma
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Although the CMH's are getting good results, they put out more heat than they advertise, which could damage any LED's in the same tent. You would need to run a separate A/C unit to keep your tent cooled, because overheated LED's don't last very long. I would recommend going either all CMH, or all LED, but not both at once. Actually, I'd really only recommend going all LED.
What would you recommend for that space? I am planning on having some pretty serious CFMs pushing in there
hyroot
Well-Known Member
i disagree.. The 330 allstart and the 315 elite agro put out very little heat. about the same as a 250 watt hps bulb.GroErr runs multiple cmh and leds in the same room no issues with light or heat.
I used to run 2 330 allstarts. I have a buddy that replace 2 1000's with 3 of them and a mover and algogether they put out very little heat. Remember heat is based on efficiency not watts.
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What kind of yield can you get out of 4 of them? I'm considering trying out the double-ended ones
hyroot
Well-Known Member
there's no answer to that question. Too many variables. Hydro or soil, pot size, veg time, genetics, environment, grow size, nutes, etc...
1 1/2 years ago I ran 2 330's to replace a 1000w hps. Got the Same yield but better quality. Recently a sort of friend replaced 2 1000w's with 3 330's and a light mover.
Bad Karma
Well-Known Member
I think the real issue here is what we each consider "hot". I know you've got more experience with HPS than I do, but even the heat output of a 250w HPS is high by my standards.
I use a passive intake system for my tents thanks to the low temp of LED, I'm not sure that would be possible with CMH. That is one of the biggest draws for me to LED, no need for cooling hoods, or extra A/C units.
keysareme
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I run a mix of cfl and led. I want to add more light from led. The space us 4x2x5. Would you recommend picking up some bulbs, inventing in a premade led unit, or make a custom light? I would like to do this cost effectively. Let me know if you need any other info, and I appreciate any response. Thank you
Section.80
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GroErr
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Running 2 of the 315w Elite Agro fixtures. There's definitely more heat at canopy level, BUT, they only raised the overall room temps by 2F watt for watt exchanging them for LED's. I expect through the winter I'll be able to add another 200-300W of LED COB's, for a total of 800-900w in a 4'x9.5'x7'H flower room, using 4" incoming and exhaust inline fans with variable controllers, both running at the lowest speed. We had a couple of warmer days once I got the 2 units running, just cranked my intake to 1/3rd throttle and it maintained the temps fine with 70F air coming in from the house.
I think they do throw out slightly more overall heat than LED's, but it's minimal, comparing them to hps heat there's no comparison, the heat output is minimal in comparison. You need about 6' minimum room height imo to run these CMH fixtures, a foot less running bare bulb. If you have the room height I think you're good, in a smaller/lower tent you'd need to cool more than running LED's imo, or you'd likely need to modify/increase your cooling equipment/design. I'd recommend LED's in a cramped room or tent, that's where the LED's have the advantage imo. The combo of CMH and LED's if your room can handle it should be awesome, will be trying that as the winter sets in
FranJan
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Custom light is probably best because you can design the light for the space which is playing to one of the strengths of LED. In other words you can select spectrums that accentuate the CFLs and design a panel or strip that fit your grow area. Smaller production panels like an Area 51 or Kessil 150/350 wouldn't be a bad idea but I guess it really depends on your setup. And bulbs are OK but it's so easy to build a COB nowadays it's hard to say buy bulbs but again it's all about your setup. Hope that helps. Good Luck.
Heavy Consumer
Well-Known Member
Just posted this in another thread, but thought that more uninformed people, like myself, are likely to see this here:
I know we should be careful who we listen to and that independent testers/reviewers with less vested interests are more credible, but for noobs like me, I thought this vid' was really interesting..
I know we should be careful who we listen to and that independent testers/reviewers with less vested interests are more credible, but for noobs like me, I thought this vid' was really interesting..
Can someone help me with the illumitex leds . Are they good they are 5w per diode and flat modular type with no lenses or glass on the panel . Is this a good option . The pannel has 16 x5w I believe its the f3 spectrum now the guy who makes the panel is local for me and I can deal with him face to face . Hes giving me 60 days to try it with full money back return if I dont like it . The panel is expensive 600$ . But he gave me one with 3 months use on is fir 400 and still giving me a 2 or 3 year warranty on parts . . Also after the 60 days if I want new or bigger hes willing to take back the used one and sell me a bigger one . My problem is price the 25 led one is over 700 . He has a 64 thats like 2000 and a 100 x5w thats even more $$ . He also gave me the option to buy 2 of his first gen panel which still have 16 of the same lights they have 6 months use on them and he said only the cosmetics have changed like a few more visible screw head he would give me two for 600$ so id have 32x 5w . what should I do
Heavy Consumer
Well-Known Member
I'm no expert and def' can't say what YOU should do, but the most commonly recommended brand in this thread sells their highest spec' model, made with brand name (Cree) diodes (and lots of A51 test grows in the journals of this site to check out too), for less than your local guy is asking for his and only slightly more than he's asking you to pay for a used item... They're also offering limited lifetime warranty if something goes wrong with the unit. http://a51led.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181
I imagine that if some of the more experienced guys and gals read your post, that's what some of them might say.
Definitely try to read some of the other "which LED" type threads in the LED lighting and newby sections of the forum to help you decide. There's a lot of useful info here.
I like that the guy is local and I needed light asap so I did kind of make a rushed decision . I was hoping these illumitex lights were as good as they sounded but havent found too much info on them so u think id be best to return this light ? Is 600 for 160w not good then
Heavy Consumer
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Sadly, I'm not experienced enough to have an opinion yet, so when I said I couldn't say what you should do, I really meant it. Hopefully some of the experienced and friendly folks here will read and reply soon. In the meantime, watch the short video I posted above. There's some interesting info in there about how some models work.
Will do thanks . I just read a nice journal on the light u mention . Looks good im just happy I have time to return the light if I need to . Cause its alot of money for 80w of actual led . Even at 400 for the used one . The area 51 seems good bug how come all white not purple
Heavy Consumer
Well-Known Member
From what little I understand, the white light contains a broad section of the total spectrum, including some degree of red and blue (purple when seen together). Again, if you read through some of the LED light threads in here, you'll be able to find a lot more info on that topic. e.g. http://rollitup.org/t/white-leds.840593/
This is why, because it works. (<<link) LEDs are just recently becoming feasible. In the past, white LEDs were too expensive and didn't produce a natural spectral curve. I've got an LED flashlight I measured with an inexpensive (DIY) spectrometer. It produces very distinct red, green and blue bands. Whereas a CFL or new white LEDs produce a smooth graph with greens and yellows, etc.
In the past, monochromatic LEDs were cost effective. You could concentrate your energy use to the red and blue waves which drive photosynthesis the most. But, that didn't mean there weren't other colors the plant could use. It was just a cost/benefit tradeoff. The other colors weren't as easily available. You could add an orange or green LED, but that was like the flashlight with distinct bands. Not a smooth graph like the sun.
Now white LEDs are higher quality (smooth band) and cost effective. You'll do good with a "blurple" LED. I have a Blackstar that produces very good results on smaller autoflowers. But, just like you could do well eating just corn and hot dogs, you'll do better with a broader diet (some leafy vegetables, dairy, etc.).
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