Question for the DIY LED-ers!

Thorhax

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
I have a cheap 400w COB from china that recently failed on me. each cob is suppose to be 100w(they run at about 40w:/

aside from the crappy LEDs they used all the other parts seam to work great

Could i buy some CXA3070s and just replace the LEDs in this unit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-400W-LED-Grow-Light-Reflector-Cup-4x-32x-3w-Integrated-COB-Hydro-Lamp-Panel-/190974355783?pt=US_Hydroponics&hash=item2c76f56947

BTW DO NOT BUY THIS POS. in no way do i think this light is worth anything.

thanks for you time
 
B

bondoman

Well-Known Member
If it were me I wouldn't risk it, just gut it and salvage the case, reflectors and heatsinks and fans.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
The drivers may not have a high enough vF range for the CXA3070s. Vero 18s would be a safer bet. I would suggest installing only half the COBs so it can run cool. Also, if possible the heatsink surface could probably use a flattening before mounting the Veros. With all that done you would have a decent 80W flowering lamp just over 30% efficient. (I am guessing they are 1.4A drivers)
 
Last edited:
Thorhax

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
bondoman said:
If it were me I wouldn't risk it, just gut it and salvage the case, reflectors and heatsinks and fans.
Click to expand...
SupraSPL said:
The drivers may not have a high enough vF range for the CXA3070s. Vero 18s would be a safer bet. I would suggest installing only half the COBs so it can run cool. Also, if possible the heatsink surface could probably use a flattening before mounting the Veros. With all that done you would have a decent flowering lamp just over 30% efficient.
Click to expand...
Each COB in this light has its own individual heat sink and fan. And also each has its own driver. after my current flowering plants are down i will take it apart.

so do i only need http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=BXRC-30E4000-F-03&vendor=976 ?
or should i buy new drivers too?
 
Thorhax

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
Ok how about i reword my question. how do i, using as many of the parts, make this a bad ass flower light?

maybe some other people with benefit from this too
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Are they somewhat beefy heatsinks like CPU style? If so, you could use them with Vero 18s if you reuse the drivers or CXA3070s if you end up buying new drivers ($13 each). If not we should re-assess the plan because good CPU heatsinks w fan are only $10 each and they will allow you to run any COB you want cool and quiet.

Did you ever put the lamp on a power meter? That might give us a hint how much current the drivers are putting out and how we could reuse them. Or do they have any info printed on them?
 
Thorhax

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Are they somewhat beefy heatsinks like CPU style? If so, you could use them with Vero 18s if you reuse the drivers or CXA3070s if you end up buying new drivers ($13 each). If not we should re-assess the plan because good CPU heatsinks w fan are only $10 each and they will allow you to run any COB you want cool and quiet.

Did you ever put the lamp on a power meter? That might give us a hint how much current the drivers are putting out and how we could reuse them. Or do they have any info printed on them?
Click to expand...
The link is the only info i can find on it. the heat sinks are about an inch thick and the fans looks good, but i don't know whats good or bad. if you think i shouldn't use these drivers, can you recommend good drivers? i will be using the vero 18s
I've read your DIY supra, props for sure. once i can afford it i will be using your thread a lot.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
THNX, you could give those drivers a shot. You can get a power meter from Walmart in the light bulb aisle or a multimeter to check the current output.

1200mA, and would work well with Vero 18s but not CXAs or Vero29s
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1320600-85-265v-50w-high-power-constant-current-led-driver

880mA
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10004218/1320606

800mA, enclosed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-Watt-High-Power-LED-Driver-AC85V-265V-50-60HZ-Waterproof-USA-Seller-/310948865469?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4865ff25bd
 
Last edited:
Mechmike

Mechmike

Well-Known Member
Those drivers might be just fine but you need to know their output voltage and current. You'll need to use a decent multimeter. Look for one that can measure 2a or better. The Vero 18 has a wide current range as do pretty much all of the cobs. I run mine at about 600ma to maximize efficiency but they can go as high as 2.1a. You will know if your drivers are a good fit when you can get some measurements.
 
Thorhax

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
THNX, you could those drivers a shot. You can get a power meter from Walmart in the light bulb aisle or a multimeter to check the current output.

1200mA, and would work well with Vero 18s but not CXAs or Vero29s
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1320600-85-265v-50w-high-power-constant-current-led-driver

880mA
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10004218/1320606

800mA, enclosed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-Watt-High-Power-LED-Driver-AC85V-265V-50-60HZ-Waterproof-USA-Seller-/310948865469?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4865ff25bd
Click to expand...
gonna buy the drivers you recommended. i don't know if this is asking to much but would one just clip the old wires and then solder said wires in the right place?
 
FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
LOL They all work but they have slight differences like different gauges and lengths. Digi has 4227,8, and 9. I used 4229 on mine if that's any help.
upload_2014-10-12_21-43-12.png
 
Thorhax

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
THNX, you could give those drivers a shot. You can get a power meter from Walmart in the light bulb aisle or a multimeter to check the current output.

1200mA, and would work well with Vero 18s but not CXAs or Vero29s
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1320600-85-265v-50w-high-power-constant-current-led-driver

880mA
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10004218/1320606

800mA, enclosed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-Watt-High-Power-LED-Driver-AC85V-265V-50-60HZ-Waterproof-USA-Seller-/310948865469?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4865ff25bd
Click to expand...
FranJan said:
Buy the Molex connectors for the Vero 18s so you don't have to solder the COB. Totally worth it. Then you really don't need anything more than wire nuts and an extension cord. No soldering :).
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/cable-assemblies/solid-state-lighting-cables/1574120?k=Vero 18 Molex
Click to expand...
here is some photos of the guts.
IMG_20141012_201937037.jpgIMG_20141012_201517991.jpg
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Good info, so is each driver powering a pair of COBs in series? And then (1) 12V PSU to power all the fans?

Those heatsinks do look beefy enough for CXA3070s at 1.4A.
 
Thorhax

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Good info, so is each driver powering a pair of COBs in series? And then (1) 12V PSU to power all the fans?

Those heatsinks do look beefy enough for CXA3070s at 1.4A.
Click to expand...
4 drivers. to 4 COBs. yeah and the fan power supply. however the drivers do not list a wattage
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top