Fat ass nugg

Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Looks great!

Kinda to much P in flower ??
The yellowing of the leaves show it !

Still looks GREAT ! Just run straight pHed water, no more nutes.
 
Jussblaz3420

Jussblaz3420

Well-Known Member
Yea i backed up off the nutes about a week ago wen i saw burnt tips, fresh water from here on out, she started yellowing like first week of flower tho so idk i thought maybe not enough N cuz i didnt feed at all during veg just transplant into ffof. Shes a purple paralysis from cream of the crop.
 
Jussblaz3420

Jussblaz3420

Well-Known Member
Shes the real stunner in the garden tho, my cherry bomb from bomb seeds. She was a freebie so i kinda just popped the bean n let her ride along but man once i saw how frosty she was getting and the pungent skunk fruity smell she started to become my favorite. Pictures dont do her justice, i think next run im gonna go with some more purples and a couple cherry bombs. I have blimburn ogs kush going also but theyre not very impressive compared to the others, regular spicy hashy smell, regular size buds, just nothing too appealing. image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Jussblaz3420

Jussblaz3420

Well-Known Member
green_machine_two9er said:
purple parylsis is my new favorite.
these were done organic. first time with no synthetics 71 days. coulda went a week longer but had to make room.

yours buds look awesome tho! im guna run some in ff just to see if i can get a bit mmore out of her.
Click to expand...
Yea shes an awesome looking plant and a good producer, im gonna run her again.
 
Drumfounded

Drumfounded

Well-Known Member
She's a real beauty man, seriously! I'm ordering some new strains in the next couple weeks and I'm definitely gonna give this one a shot. Good looks!
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Jusblaz, If the yellowing started at the onset of flowering. Your P was way to high in veg to start. Always remember that when the leaves yellow out. They do not photosynthesize much if at all ! That means that your plant is less capable of feeding it's self as well as it should. That makes stress to the plant. Stressed plants are more likely to attract pests and contract molds and fungus problems. Green healthy leaves mean strong healthy plants and I would go as far as saying that, "If your plants had healthy green leaves all the way to the end (they do have a natural yellowing and die off, but no where near what you had !). You would have seen even more yield in size and weight!

If I may ask, what have you been feeding with?
What is the NPK of the feed for veg. and for bloom?

The "look" of low N is the most common guess in your situation. No amount of added N will help that problem!

Many read that added P in flower is needed by the plant. That is only somewhat correct! While added P in flower can and will add bulk to buds. The amount needed to add is about dbl that of veg stage, BUT more importantly is WHEN you up the P (this is usually accomplished by simply switching to bloom feeds).

SOME (not many) nutrient makers are quite right in their feed charts. Others are not so much and others still make wild and toxic (to your plant) claims about how to use their "line" of nutrients and "supplements".

A good rule of thumb when using synthetic nutrition is to continue the "veg" nutrient until week 3 or 4 (somewhat strain dependent). At that point you begin "bloom" food (some real quality nute makers actually up the N P and K in their nutrient mix in ratio's that are more "correct" and you DO start it as directed,,,,,,HESI and CANNA come to mind).

Then come the P&K boosters. These can be the problem as many novice growers can stumble at the idea of "More is better". It is NOT! Even with Hesi and Canna, I do NOT advise to follow their charts for boosters! I would use their boosters like this. At the start of week 4, Add the PK booster on day 1 and then skip to week 5. Use it on day one and day 4. Skip to the start of week 6 and add at day one and again at day 4 and again at day 7. Now drop all booster use and run to finish ( I almost always run at least a week longer then the breeders reports say to. Example; 8 week flower is usually 9-10 weeks).

Use of high P&K boosters in the range of 0-52-36 are simply way to high in P, PERIOD! Avoid these until you have plenty of grows under your belt and understand the problems they can create VERY fast, and how to avoid the problems with very discreet use (I still don't use these very often at all, if ever !).

The use of a good Silica in veg and to week 4 in bloom will help control the P use/uptake by the plant.

I like to use my own home made "Sweet Raw" for trich and terp increase! It does work!
If interested in that, ask about it. I've run out of time and need to go.

Doc
 
Jussblaz3420

Jussblaz3420

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Jusblaz, If the yellowing started at the onset of flowering. Your P was way to high in veg to start. Always remember that when the leaves yellow out. They do not photosynthesize much if at all ! That means that your plant is less capable of feeding it's self as well as it should. That makes stress to the plant. Stressed plants are more likely to attract pests and contract molds and fungus problems. Green healthy leaves mean strong healthy plants and I would go as far as saying that, "If your plants had healthy green leaves all the way to the end (they do have a natural yellowing and die off, but no where near what you had !). You would have seen even more yield in size and weight!

If I may ask, what have you been feeding with?
What is the NPK of the feed for veg. and for bloom?

The "look" of low N is the most common guess in your situation. No amount of added N will help that problem!

Many read that added P in flower is needed by the plant. That is only somewhat correct! While added P in flower can and will add bulk to buds. The amount needed to add is about dbl that of veg stage, BUT more importantly is WHEN you up the P (this is usually accomplished by simply switching to bloom feeds).

SOME (not many) nutrient makers are quite right in their feed charts. Others are not so much and others still make wild and toxic (to your plant) claims about how to use their "line" of nutrients and "supplements".

A good rule of thumb when using synthetic nutrition is to continue the "veg" nutrient until week 3 or 4 (somewhat strain dependent). At that point you begin "bloom" food (some real quality nute makers actually up the N P and K in their nutrient mix in ratio's that are more "correct" and you DO start it as directed,,,,,,HESI and CANNA come to mind).

Then come the P&K boosters. These can be the problem as many novice growers can stumble at the idea of "More is better". It is NOT! Even with Hesi and Canna, I do NOT advise to follow their charts for boosters! I would use their boosters like this. At the start of week 4, Add the PK booster on day 1 and then skip to week 5. Use it on day one and day 4. Skip to the start of week 6 and add at day one and again at day 4 and again at day 7. Now drop all booster use and run to finish ( I almost always run at least a week longer then the breeders reports say to. Example; 8 week flower is usually 9-10 weeks).

Use of high P&K boosters in the range of 0-52-36 are simply way to high in P, PERIOD! Avoid these until you have plenty of grows under your belt and understand the problems they can create VERY fast, and how to avoid the problems with very discreet use (I still don't use these very often at all, if ever !).

The use of a good Silica in veg and to week 4 in bloom will help control the P use/uptake by the plant.

I like to use my own home made "Sweet Raw" for trich and terp increase! It does work!
If interested in that, ask about it. I've run out of time and need to go.

Doc
Click to expand...
I appreciate the info! I thought it was low N since i never fed in veg, just transplanted twice in fox farms ocean forest, figured that would be supplemental enough for a 1 month veg, then i started feedi g qtr strength blooms at 3rd week of flowerig, Big Bloom 0.01 - 0.3 - 0.7 and Tiger Bloom 2-8-4
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
The Tiger bloom at 8 for the P is also subject to the level of P in the soil....The Big Bloom is organic and works with what is IN the soil, so the P value of .3 did very little to magnify the problem.

You most likely overfeed them and that's the easiest thing to fix next time!
 
green_machine_two9er

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
The Tiger bloom at 8 for the P is also subject to the level of P in the soil....The Big Bloom is organic and works with what is IN the soil, so the P value of .3 did very little to magnify the problem.

You most likely overfeed them and that's the easiest thing to fix next time!
Click to expand...
I agree I've found this strain does not need much nutrients.
 
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