FFOF & OG Kush Grow Questions

[DanKill1]

Hi All...On the verge of a fresh beginning and I had a question regarding Fox Farm Ocean Forest. A friend of mine states they've been able to sustain a plant on the soil only (no other nutrients) through harvest and I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same experience. I've had lockout/burn issues in my previous posts with unknown bag seed but I've just planted some OG Kush seeds. This is my first grow with a known strain so any advice is appreciated.

Add'l details...I had been using fox farm 3 pack as directed....sparingly (1/4 dose of whatever was scheduled every 2nd or 3rd feeding when past the seedling stage) but I still believe it caused some issues. End product was fine but by harvest most if not all the fan leaves were affected on every plant; even the tips of the bud leaves on some...not extensive but I pulled them when I saw the damage get close to the buds(different strains - same damage). I understand that's part of the process but the plants looked downtrodden for lack of a better word.

Any tips for growing OG would also be appreciated. Thanks

 

[packetloss314]

Yeah get happy frog and ffof. Start the baby off in happy frog for 3-4 weeks. Won't need nutes really. Then transplant into ffof. I have done it a few times with great results. May need a P feeding 1-2 times (half dose) depending on how long it flowers. But by and large it will do 90% of the work. Just add water

All comments and pictures posted by the entity known as packetloss314 are completely fiction and at times outright lies. All content was copied from the internet and all statements are from the mind of a lunatic

 

[DanKill1]

Thanks for the response. If you don't mind answering a few more. 1. Did you have to flush? 2. What did you use for the P feeding? 3. You only used it twice? If that's the case I know I overdid it on my previous grows. 4. So is the OF better as a standalone? No need to mix (perlite, e.t.c)?

 

[TonightYou]

Just use happy frog. I use to fuck around with FFOG but it was more of a headache than it was worth. I know I got gnats from a bag, not that big of a deal. If you are using other fertilizers, it's simply easier to stick with Happy Frog. Only thing to be concerned about I'd calcium and that is only if you've got plants going 10 weeks or more from my experience.

 

[DanKill1]

Just use happy frog. I use to fuck around with FFOG but it was more of a headache than it was worth. I know I got gnats from a bag, not that big of a deal. If you are using other fertilizers, it's simply easier to stick with Happy Frog. Only thing to be concerned about I'd calcium and that is only if you've got plants going 10 weeks or more from my experience.

Funny you say that because I got gnats from my last bag of happy frog...What was the problem with the OF if you don't mind me asking? I'm concerned about using just the happy frog with fox farm nutes but I see now that I was overfeeding and fed to early. I was hoping the OF would give me a way to feed without overfeeding... Is it really hot even for month old plants?

 

[TonightYou]

Funny you say that because I got gnats from my last bag of happy frog...What was the problem with the OF if you don't mind me asking? I'm concerned about using just the happy frog with fox farm nutes but I see now that I was overfeeding and fed to early. I was hoping the OF would give me a way to feed without overfeeding... Is it really hot even for month old plants?

Primarily consistency with the amount of nutrient. I don't want any nute burn, as it's a sign of damaging the root system. On top of that with happy frog, I can start fertilizing out the gate and controlling the application better. I take a bag a bag of Happy Frog, cut it with perlite so the mixture is 60/40, as I prefer to water more frequently than run the risk of water logging my root system. I do add calcium to the mix as well so it's one less thing to worry about. All in all my system works for my setup.

I don't want to have burns or deficiencies and I want to see a beautiful white root mass after harvest, that way I know the plant was ran properly.

 

[DanKill1]

Primarily consistency with the amount of nutrient. I don't want any nute burn, as it's a sign of damaging the root system. On top of that with happy frog, I can start fertilizing out the gate and controlling the application better. I take a bag a bag of Happy Frog, cut it with perlite so the mixture is 60/40, as I prefer to water more frequently than run the risk of water logging my root system. I do add calcium to the mix as well so it's one less thing to worry about. All in all my system works for my setup.

I don't want to have burns or deficiencies and I want to see a beautiful white root mass after harvest, that way I know the plant was ran properly.

Thank you. Bear with me...so the perlite drains the moisture better? Would mixing it with OF not assist in draining excess nutrients in the soil?

 

[TonightYou]

Thank you. Bear with me...so the perlite drains the moisture better? Would mixing it with OF not assist in draining excess nutrients in the soil?

Of course I'll bear with ya!

I found that excess water retention really can slow down a plant and cause problems. Using perlite allows lower water retention, meaning I have to water more frequently. I suppose I could water less, but I've had nothing but problems, which may just be due to me to be honest (water less, right?).

Using perlite will lower the amount of nutrients in total, because the mass is made up of an inert rock, and I found that a 60/40 works well for me as a mixture. Again, I use happy frog over ocean grown because I want to control how much I'm feeding and reduce the risk of over feeding. Happy frog has a slight amount of nutrients and I literally start my feeding (using Jacks Classic, I started with Fox Farms and ditched it, still have bottles just sitting in a bin) at the seedling stage after the first true leaves begin to form.

You won't necessarily drain off nutrients doing this, but the total mass will have less due to the mixture of perlite. Over watering really slows down a plant and can damage it pretty easily.

 

[DanKill1]

Of course I'll bear with ya!

I found that excess water retention really can slow down a plant and cause problems. Using perlite allows lower water retention, meaning I have to water more frequently. I suppose I could water less, but I've had nothing but problems, which may just be due to me to be honest (water less, right?).

Using perlite will lower the amount of nutrients in total, because the mass is made up of an inert rock, and I found that a 60/40 works well for me as a mixture. Again, I use happy frog over ocean grown because I want to control how much I'm feeding and reduce the risk of over feeding. Happy frog has a slight amount of nutrients and I literally start my feeding (using Jacks Classic, I started with Fox Farms and ditched it, still have bottles just sitting in a bin) at the seedling stage after the first true leaves begin to form.

You won't necessarily drain off nutrients doing this, but the total mass will have less due to the mixture of perlite. Over watering really slows down a plant and can damage it pretty easily.

OK. So now you have me concerned about the FF trio Why did you ditch it and can I ask how much/often your feeding the Jack's Classic?

 

[TonightYou]

OK. So now you have me concerned about the FF trio Why did you ditch it and can I ask how much/often your feeding the Jack's Classic?

I ditched Fox Farms for a variety of reasons. Its not terrible, don't get me wrong, but I ditched it for the following reasons, not in any particular order:
1.) Cost. Using Jacks I went from using 3 bottles which are approximately $20 each and last about 2 grows in my setup to a tub that cost $30 lasting over 2 years of growing.
2.) Application rates with fox farms caused a lot of salt build up when I checked my roots after harvest, lock outs and deficiencies occurred (bloom doesn't have enough Nitrogen). With Jacks, it's mostly complete and a 20:20:20, which really works great. It's easy as pie to adjust your schedule, one scoop is about 750 ppm if I recall correctly and you really have to try to burn your plants.
3.) Not having to spend nearly as much for watered down nutes. Why not buy something complete as a dry fertilizer and add your own water instead of buying a bottle with it already watered down.
4.) Problem free growing. Minus an issue with calcium, which I took care of by adding a dry amendment when mixing Happy Frog with Perlit, the problem was solved.
5.) Not having to be reactive, never having to flush because something is fucked and lockout or burn is occurring.

This is just my method, there is no one way to do it, but my leaves stay green, I have no deficiencies and never really worry about my plants, ph, or any other nonsense. I get to enjoy the actual cultivating aspect of cannabis.

I'm a fan of keep it simple stupid philosophy. I don't need nutrients to be overly complicated and I think many make it more difficult than it need be, when a more simple approach works best.

 

[DanKill1]

I didn't know if it was better to start a new post or just add to my old one so forgive my ignorance but.......I've never posted near harvest picks or updates after you all have been so kind to respond to my questions so here goes. I went ahead with the fox farm trio and added perlite with some changes.... After again growing perfectly fine in veg after switching to flower I started noting issues again...to sum it up without rehashing old setup information I invested in real tools and determined that I was causing deficiencies by feeding the plants 5.7-5.9 water in soil along with underfeeding (300-500 ppm) because I would feed the plants less thinking the nutes were doing them in. One good flush and about 2 months of having a clue later I'm close to harvest with decent results (for me at least). They recovered but now on day 74 flower and the trichomes are still clear to cloudy...not a hint of amber and that's concerning to me but I digress. Just wanted to say thanks and provide some shots that show the results of your advice. I harvested a plant about day 67-68 as it "looked" done and I wanted to test my old way of rushing vs. again...having a clue. Wish me luck and keep growing. I'm trying to stay patient but plan on pulling day 80 regardless to make space.

 

[purplehays1]

Hi All...On the verge of a fresh beginning and I had a question regarding Fox Farm Ocean Forest. A friend of mine states they've been able to sustain a plant on the soil only (no other nutrients) through harvest and I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same experience. I've had lockout/burn issues in my previous posts with unknown bag seed but I've just planted some OG Kush seeds. This is my first grow with a known strain so any advice is appreciated.

Add'l details...I had been using fox farm 3 pack as directed....sparingly (1/4 dose of whatever was scheduled every 2nd or 3rd feeding when past the seedling stage) but I still believe it caused some issues. End product was fine but by harvest most if not all the fan leaves were affected on every plant; even the tips of the bud leaves on some...not extensive but I pulled them when I saw the damage get close to the buds(different strains - same damage). I understand that's part of the process but the plants looked downtrodden for lack of a better word.

Any tips for growing OG would also be appreciated. Thanks

Fox Farms Ocean Forest is very very good stuff. I use it for vegging my plants as it is super easy, just add water. I have never had a problem putting freshly rooted clones or seedlings straight into FFOF, never had it burn one time. I also have a mother that was in 3/4 gallon of FFOF for 20 weeks before it showed any deficiency. I venture to say a plant on a 6 week veg will be able to make it through 8 weeks of flower without having any deficiencies. My recommendation if you are going to go this route would be to buy a "bloom booster" that is high in P and K to add late in flower to help your yield. It is highly strain dependent but yes, a plant CAN make it all the way start to finish in FFOF.