Hash and Oil Picture Thread
- Thread starter Sirdabsalot462
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torturekiller420
Well-Known Member
ODanksta, Ive seen that orange vac pump and chamber setup a couple times now and have found them for sale for a decent price. How do you like it so far?
ODanksta
Well-Known Member
honestly I do not use the Orange pump its a single stage 2.5 CFM, the other pump is a 2 stage 3 CFM, I paid about 160 from harbor freight. And trying to figure out the fittings was somewhat of a bitch. And vac camber is badass, its just to small for me. Im going to man up and buy a close loop and a vac oven, because I'm going through way to much butane.
Edit* that orange pump is my buddies. He bought because its super quite. He was living in apartments, plus it doesnt smoke like mine does. Mine smokes up the house very quickly i need to get a cold trap filter. I think his is meant to run continuously. I just run mine until it hits full vacuum then I shut it off.
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ODanksta
Well-Known Member
Isnt that bitch to scrape? I am assuming that is your vac chamber obviously, ive thought about blasting in my chamber. But i have the best idea for the hot water bath. I cant really explain it I will just post a pic. But I literally just pour the oil out of it, then scrape whats left it takes a whole two minutes and throw on the parchment paper then throw it in the vac. It looks really dark, but I know dark doesnt mean bad. Was it old cured material? And last question what did you yield?Trim run post muffin
Trim run post 24 hour purge (pre-scrape)
budbro18
Well-Known Member
I have a 3 gallon vac chamber the pyrex is just what i blast into and then put that in my vac chamber to purge before scraping. Its surprisingly not too bad to scrape. Especially after i purge for 24 hours in it and its already pretty stable. I usually leave the oil in the rounded edge and dissolve with ethanol and end up using it in some sort of edible. Ive moved away from the hot water bath and recommend you do too. It can add moisture to your oil through condensation. Also you probably dont want to pour directly onto parchment with oil that still has a lot of butane in it to the point that its flowing that easy. Grab a roll of Teflon sheet from oil slick its awesome. This is really dark because it was so thick. That was about 35 grams in that pyrex. Not super old but a solid month. Yeah as long as its not green color really doesnt mean anything good or bad. I didnt weigh the total amount of starting material. Most trim runs i do i dont weigh unless its super super fine sugar leaf and nothing else. But for trim its usually between 5-10. Ive once hit 12 but that was with super super nice sugar trim, it was basically bud shake haha. Most nug/shake runs are 12-20. Never cracked 20% though. Hopefully once i get a closed loop the pressures will help me grab those few extra percents.
ODanksta
Well-Known Member
Damn I didnt realize that was 35 grams, hell yeah homie your killing it!
ODanksta
Well-Known Member
When I pour it out there is only a small amount of tane left. Not enough to react to the Teflon atleast I hope. And the hot water bath I use Is completely sealed so the moisture can not get into the dish. But like I said I have show a picture of it. I havent had any issues with any kind of moisture yet. I use to use a pie pan Pyrex dish floating in a stainless steel bowl but one day the tube slipped out my hand and sank the dish into the water completely trashed a large ass run, so after that BS I found a large pyrex bowl that fits perfectly into a large stainless bowl. I started off using 8"x11" pyrex, then went to using pie pans and now I only use a pryex bowl havent looked back since!
P.S I also flip the patty over every couple of hours and I use some high dollar Raw brand of unbleached parchment paper.
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Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
This thread is great. For some crazy reason i read the last 25 pages of the thread backwards, i just couldnt put down this book. The pictures are awesome.
So is there any step by step threads with a materials list one needs to make some of this sweet ass shatter. By the sounds of it, its kind of a fickle process that changes from run to run.
So far ive gathered id need,
A vac pump, a vac chamber, (amazon?)
A digital hotplate.
Some parchment paper
Fly tying forceps, or needle nose vice grips (thanks TC
)
Razor blades
5x butane
Glass tube for blowing
And trim.....wet or dry for shatter?
You guys seem like you have this down to an art form so im wondering if theres any threads anyone can steer me tward for this in 101 style. Thanks, ninja
So is there any step by step threads with a materials list one needs to make some of this sweet ass shatter. By the sounds of it, its kind of a fickle process that changes from run to run.
So far ive gathered id need,
A vac pump, a vac chamber, (amazon?)
A digital hotplate.
Some parchment paper
Fly tying forceps, or needle nose vice grips (thanks TC
)Razor blades
5x butane
Glass tube for blowing
And trim.....wet or dry for shatter?
You guys seem like you have this down to an art form so im wondering if theres any threads anyone can steer me tward for this in 101 style. Thanks, ninja
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
And a couple pro tips wouldnt hurt either 
ODanksta
Well-Known Member
I dry my material for about 10 days then dehydrate it for about 30 mins then freeze it for 24 hours. You can use better butane 7x, 9x or 11x but I do not notice any difference so 5x is what I use. I ordered two cases from amazon for 65 bucks. Yeah there are a lot of good deals on amazon for pumps and vac chambers. Yeah so basically after you prep the material, you load up the tubes, throw a screen on the tube then blast in a pryex dish the dish floats in a hot water bath so it doesnt freeze on you. And only blast outdoors! After the majority of the butane evaporates off you then throw it on parchment paper then in the vac chamber for 24 to 48 hours until it becomes hard where you can hold in your hand. I also flip the patty every couple of hours. You also have to make sure everything is spotless clean. I use 99% alcohol and a ton of paper towels to wipe everything with. There are a couple of good videos on youtube but there more bad ones then good ones.And a couple pro tips wouldnt hurt either
Bret Maverick has some good videos on YouTube
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Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
Thanks man, ive got the blasting part down, its just the vac part that im sketchy on. Ill check the videos. Why does some become wax and some become shatter? And what the hell is that shit that looks like a honeycomb or like a brick of golden bubbly fudge?
ODanksta
Well-Known Member
Ive got budder from accidentally leaving my heating pad on high all night. Basically wax is usually when something has gone wrong, moisture or high heat, rainy dThanks man, ive got the blasting part down, its just the vac part that im sketchy on. Ill check the videos. Why does some become wax and some become shatter? And what the hell is that shit that looks like a honeycomb or like a brick of golden bubbly fudge?
ay or leaving dabs in a hot car will screw them up too. There are many of methods. Some people try to make budder some shoot for shatter. Im a shatter guy. Honeycomb is usually just a large patty of budder. Some people de-wax or winterize which will change the look. And others use ISO 99% rubbing alcohol and some use everclear that usually makes the bubbly fundge stuff. Different systems will also make different qualities, closed loop, co2 and hand held tubes.
And different strains also make different qualities. Cured bud is usually darker, over matured buds also make darker oil. Premature bud usually is the lightest in color almost even clear. There are so many different variables. And what I stated above isnt always true. Ive made shatter from 99% alcohol. Lol I started a thread last night called crappy old school methods and BHO fails, its a good list of what not to do..
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jdubwetherell1988
Well-Known Member
Some more Iso shatter from 11g's of Trainwreck harvest (flowers only)
1.5g = 14% yield
1.5g = 14% yield
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budbro18
Well-Known Member
Butane. Power5x off ebay. $35-40 bucks a case and the best stuff for the money. the 5x means basically nothing as far as purity. Dont use the "pure tanes" or anything claiming to be something more amazing, because it isnt. Unless youre getting 99.9% n-butane or other hydrocarbons youre not gaining any purity. and even the 99.9% pure stuff still is recommended to be distilled if possible.And a couple pro tips wouldnt hurt either
Ebay for glass tube with minimum 50 micron screen should also come with pipe clamp. Dont use rubber bands or zip ties. Pipe clamps are the way to go. theres one person i cant remember who but their name was something oregon and they have really nice ones in only a couple sizes but they come with nice/extra screens and pipe clamps.
best value vacs for vac chamber. Cheapest out there and work really well. You can get glass or SS or aluminum. Id go with SS and again if you have the money the 3 gallon one would be best.
Vac pump can be found at harbor freight for 75-100 (they always have 25% off coupons so they could save ya) Or you could get a combo from best value vacs and possibly save a few bucks. Theyre basically the same pumps just with different brand names on them. 2 stroke are quieter and slightly better but it doesnt really matter. Most pull fast enough between 2-4 cfm and usually down to between 125 and 75 micron. If you got the money and you want to go hard and get a pump like mine thats 6 cfm 2 stroke 15 microns itll cost about $250+. Check craigslist too. You can find some nice ones there. Just make sure to change oil and everything to make sure nothing bad is waiting to happen.
Pyrex of your choosing. Square/rectangle are usually the best that ive found. Minimal spots that are hard to get to unlike the round one that is annoying. And even that one all it takes is a scalpel to get the round edges/corners.
Any type of hot plate really. If youve got a few extra bucks best value vacs have digital hot plates that go really low in temp i think like 5-10 above ambient. Itll help both purging the butane from the pyrex and when vac purging its made to fit the bottom of the chamber. Just make sure you buy the right size!
For parchment i go for the reynolds wrap foil backed parchment. Much more sturdy for all your needs so i like it more than regular parchment. Especially if youre workin with some sappy stuff. go to fold or flip and rip your parchment in half. No fun
Razor blades and the above that TC mentioned. Or you can get the teflon sheets. Pretty nice but have a learning curve so id stay away til ya get your feet wet.
And good starting material.
If you think youre going to be doing it often or just occasionally for a long time or with pretty good amounts of trim/bud then id invest in the slightly larger things that i recommended. Better than quickly outgrowing them and having a bunch of wasted money lyin around. With the bigger chamber or more expensive hot plate itll cost you a little more but like i said youll be able to grow into them and theyll help with some of the common problems new bho makers run into like inaccurate temps with the hot plates. Most dont go down to 100 and if they do they bounce from 120 back down to 100. that can cause buddering which isnt always a bad thing if you like it. Same with vac. If you buy the stronger/bigger vac theyre generally made for constant use so theyll be a better investment in the long haul where as the cheap harbor freight/best value vacs are made to be cheap and used occasionally and will probably shit out after a few years. Mine is about 10 years old. Was used for a HVAC company my friends dad used to own for like 8 years before we found it. Bad boy has no problem runnin for hours because it was made to pull vacs on mid to large sized commercial AC units which takes hours to pull sometimes.
budbro18
Well-Known Member
Agreed, too many variables. Ive ran under 24 hour old trim/buds and gotten almost clear product. Picked right on time too. Ive also gotten just over 24 hour trim from a different strain that turned as dark as hell. \
red oil, orange oil, every shade of amber, yellow, clear, you name it ive had it happen. And im not even a crazy big/often producer.
Ive had some stuff shatter at 4 hours at 95 so i had to take it up to 105 to get it to finish purging. Other stuff 4 days at 110 and still sap, no buddering even. Had strains budder at 95 after 12 hours, had strains refuse to budder at 150 for 12 hours.
If youre ever making it for someone NEVER tell them it will come out a certain way, besides pure. Just tell them theyll get a pure product (if you can produce it which is very easy) but it might be anywhere from sap to a crispy oatmeal cookie like consistency. Either way its good if you put good in.
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
I've got a dish to scrape in the morning I"ll try to remember to take a picture before I dab it all .
.
budbro18
Well-Known Member
The lack of heat probably gave it that look. Shoulda turned it up a little and it woulda melted it back down probably. Kinda like if youve ever seen Xtracted or anyone use a close loop with propane, they basically get it to muffin because its a cold vac. then just pop it rightr out. If you woulda applied some low low heat it probably woulda broken it up. But to each his own. Do you really get reaction for 48 hours of just vac'n no heat??