The Official House and Garden Thread

a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
Ok guys so I have a friend who does a good amount of growing for dispensaries and is pretty familiar with H&G and he gave me a flowering recipe for a mixture that calls for no A&B just a good amount of Bud-XL, Top Booster, Amino, Multi-zen. I looked over the npk's and mixed it up and it came out to around 700 ppm on my hanna combo meter. I tried to figure out approximate npk after mixing but couldn't it doesn't seem to be unbalanced and does seem slightly more pk focused. anyways I have been following feeding chart on the H&G site and it is working well but I do seem to have what I believe is a Phosphorus def. Some leaves just fall off with just a slight amount of damage to them nothing that should make them fall off. So I was looking for a fix and my friend gave me a recipe that he uses for flowering over time with his experience with H&G it just those nutes from them and seems more balanced and with less N then the regular schedule. I don't want to list actual recipe but any opinions on just using these items in flowering? Since Obviously A&B seems more veg then flowering. I went ahead and used his recipe on my girls which are in soil and were following the site schedule. So I'm just hoping it's not gonna do anything bad to them really. Any insight from any other H&G experts?
yea, don't use that recipe. a inexpensive mix for the super dank is aqua flakes A&B, multi zen, and bud xl (used after day 21). and thats it. oh yea get some cal mag just to be safe. the shooting powder is on you. get it if u want, but not needed. how ever I've never done a run with out it. maybe I'm getting ripped off but i don't care.
 

youknowthekid!

Active Member
yea, don't use that recipe. a inexpensive mix for the super dank is aqua flakes A&B, multi zen, and bud xl (used after day 21). and thats it. oh yea get some cal mag just to be safe. the shooting powder is on you. get it if u want, but not needed. how ever I've never done a run with out it. maybe I'm getting ripped off but i don't care.
lol amen to that.
iim going to work with sativieds advice and go 50% A+B and 50% GHbloom for my base in flower to cut down on N
 

Hygrohybrid

New Member
Oh then you definitely know what I'm talking about. :) Drastic indeed, can open the closet twice a day and still be shocked by the growth. Last round I had 4 plants I didn't top or train at all, was selecting a mom for some seeds and wanted to see their structure without training. Two of them increased a whopping ~1200% in size (from 5inch tall to 60, stem like a broomstick). Germinated and a little preveg as seedling under 54watt only, then 2-3 days in the flower tubes before the switch. Check out the two on the left in the back:

Switched to 12/12 (2 buckets to be removed, males)
View attachment 3026894

A little over 20 days later:
View attachment 3026895

The one right in the back is just a very stretchy (failed) cross of my own. But, the one in center front is the mother of the clones I linked to in my previous post, the node spacing after transition on the clones is about half of that on the mom. A huge and welcome difference.


H&G A component NPK 3-0-3
H&G B component NPK 1-3-6
AB Combined: NPK 4-3-9

When using little or no Multizen (4-0-1) during veg, that's not a bad ratio at all. Last round I used a little more A than B during veg and transitioning, basically wanted to see if I could get away with using just A and B. The combined N-P-K of 4-3-9 is very doable during veg but while I'm not a big fan of high P boosters or high P throughout the entire flowering phase, I essentially want to lower the N slowly during the flowering stage, while increasing the P a bit.

GHE (FloraDuo) Bloom is 1-5-3. I know of some growers who use merely that product (without Grow, which is 5-0-5) and go straight to 12/12 (from rooted clones), and do fine yield-wise but often end up with premature yellowing and a yellow harvest. GHE Bloom alone is too high on P (imo), I don't want to the P to be higher than the K at any point. As you can see, by combining some GHE Bloom with H&G AB I can effectively lower the N and give it a little PK boost in week 5/6 (GHE Bloom+ extra H&G B).

The past few rounds with H&G led to the best and most frosty results I had, it'll be interesting to see how using GHE Bloom as an additive will influence that, or hopefully won't. If it doesn't work out and end up with premature yellowing, I may use Bud XL again next round. Also being 4-0-1, it's odd, because others (Canna, or take Ripen with zero N from GHE for example) tend to focus on P and K at the end of the flowering period, while Bud XL is mostly N and zero P. If I wouldn't know better by now, that would 'feel' like adding veg/grow nutes at the end. It more than evens out if you use the high PK shooter but while I'm pretty sure the XL means little to nothing, I have wondered several times if and how much it influenced the result quality-wise.
Just found this thread via random house and garden google search, haven't got the chance to read every post, I've skimmed threw it some. very interesting. Thought id'e give my 2 cents with the products and my regimen.

House and Garden aqua flakes can grow some wild huge plants very fast both in veg and bloom no doubt. knowing this i can use this to my advantage though, less veg times, less plants, bigger plants = bigger harvests. Running large scrog nets ie 4'x4'+ works to my advantage with such massive vegetative growth.

House and Garden Roots Excel, old recipe, silver bottles works great, but they no longer make it anymore, it is a different product recipe on today's shelfs, the new formula sucks IMO.

This forced me to try General Hydroponics Rapid start. I was blown away at how much this product makes a difference in root development. Now if GH changes this shit i will be pissed the F*** off!!!

Here's my recipe with my personal touch, works great every time for me!

I use both HM and Blue lab tds/ppm pens

Veg-
Ro water
House and Garden aqua flakes ab equal parts 300-500 tds, depending plant size and growth rates.
Rapid Start 1ml-gal all through veg
Botanicare Silica Blast 1ml-gal all through veg
Ph if necessary, i don't find i need to after adding in this order, takes me to 5.8-6.0.
weekly water changes will yield the most impressive results!

Bloom-
Ro water
House and Garden aqua flakes ab equal parts 500-750 tds, depending on stage and growth of plants.
Rapid Start 1ml-gal first 2-3 wks of transitional bloom, drop after that.
Botanicare Silica Blast 1ml-gal till week 4-5 of bloom, drop after that.
Note- you can run just this and have a successful harvest. if you want to step up production/quality add below.

Liquid Kool Bloom/Top Booster (2ml-gal with KB), (3-4ml-gal with TB) weeks 4, 5 or 6 for one week only then drop. Week used is strain dependent, ie 8-10 week finishers.
Kool Bloom Powder/MOAB/Beastie Bloomz etc. 1/8-1/4 tsp-gal run the last 3 weeks of bloom. I've never used top shooter so i cant speak for that product.
Flush for one week with plain ro water, then harvest!

Tip-
you can encourage faster bud sites and or stop transitional stretch the first week of bloom by adding either liquid kool bloom/top booster the first week of flower. I don't practice this much because i anticipate the benefits from the transitional stretch, but if my plants are to big going into flower, or for some reason i would need to keep them squat i will do this.

I've just recently started using bud xl. I will post what i think about this product after i experiment with it some more. being its a carb product i should easily be able to distinguish a difference between running it or not, given i know exactly what to expect with my current strains and regimens not having used it before.

i have one question about drip clean after seeing the first post about it "messing up plants if not used from the beginning". and i didnt see a rebuttal on that . whats the conclusion on that statement, i was considering it??

hg
 
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Scroga

Well-Known Member
I haven't noticed a problem with drip clean.. I want to give a big shout out to H&G Australia! Thanks for the sample box! it felt like Xmas nearly made a man cry lol..
House and garden for the win people! Great products that never fail your garden! Clean effective and quite economical due to its concentration... H&G made me ChineseChinese
 
Please keep us posted, it'll be valuable info. I can say that I had a heavy indica tail out more than I wanted; I did however incorporate shooter a week too early so that may have been the cause.
Took long enough for me to update but the Shooting Powder is officially in the garbage. Even on the GSC and Grape Ape I still got a lot of foxtailing.

Can't preach the greatness of Top Booster enough though. I know it's a once a cycle product but I am actually trying it twice on a Ghost Train Haze. I am wondering if on an 80 day flower there is room for a second "Boost" I'll try to remember and actually update in less than 3 months time lol.
 

a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
Took long enough for me to update but the Shooting Powder is officially in the garbage. Even on the GSC and Grape Ape I still got a lot of foxtailing.

Can't preach the greatness of Top Booster enough though. I know it's a once a cycle product but I am actually trying it twice on a Ghost Train Haze. I am wondering if on an 80 day flower there is room for a second "Boost" I'll try to remember and actually update in less than 3 months time lol.
does the shooting powder really make you fox tail? I'm the exact opposite, love the shooting. and i believe the top booster does nothing good for ones plant.
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
does the shooting powder really make you fox tail? I'm the exact opposite, love the shooting. and i believe the top booster does nothing good for ones plant.
I got the fox tailing too, it's been a known issue for many years. While the main bud was done already, it was still spawning and building foxtails. Weird stuff that shooting powder.

I agree with top booster being useless. The trick of selling boosters like that (it's PK13/14 +iron) is to tell the grower to use them around the time the buds already start swelling up anyway so it's perceived as the reason for the bud explosion..., mj growers are suckers for the perception of control. the only thing it does is mess up the NPK ratio.

I stopped using multizym because I like my plants short and get huge trees with multizym on hydro especially if I use it during transition. I bought a bottle of it again recently to green up some clones and plants that are in an unchilled barely aerated DWC, it's clearly effective (more than for example cannazym). It's N, K, and enzymes.

Bud XL actually the same NPK ratio, as in it's not a P booster, which is by itself is good to prevent premature yellowing. "House & Garden Bud-XL uses enzymes’ processes...." "contains carbohydrates, vitamins B and E, and plant extracts". It's a bit like using molasses... not for me. The description of it "helping extract sugars from leaves and large bracts" contradicts with the supposed benefits carbohydrate "feeders" propose.

Calmag isn't needed with H&G aqua flakes or hydro either (contains plenty) just keep ph 6.0-6.2, or add a little more A than B.

I've tried several combinations of most of the products they have and I found the best (for cannabis) is to stick to just the base nutes. My problem with that is that it's too high on N for my setup (NFT), so I add some GHE Bloom to skew the ratio a little to less N.

lol amen to that.
iim going to work with sativieds advice and go 50% A+B and 50% GHbloom for my base in flower to cut down on N
Hey, how's that working out for you? I tried to start later with using the GH bloom instead of 'some' AB this round because I had some plants in flower while others were just starting to transition. It confirmed again for me that until I find a better combination (I do want to stick with the aqua flakes) this is the way to go for me.
 

Scroga

Well-Known Member
I was told the foxtailing occurs when it's added too late? Obviously when too add is going to vary strain to strain...
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
I am just starting my first run with H&G. Using their Cocos A&B and the rest of the stuff. I some times cut it with CNS17 when in the veg period to first 2 weeks of flower. Or I may just do a feed with CNS17. My reasoning behind it is that I had it sitting around...... I am loving the growth with H&G. I run coco DTW btw. I am in my couple weeks of flower. I may do the same with the CNS17 bloom I have. Great thread.
 

Scroga

Well-Known Member
Am thinking about dropping multi zyme. .. I fail to see how the plant would perform worse without it? Any thoughts any one

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Scroga

Well-Known Member
And replace with pk13/14? I've felt that it just prematurely ripens without any noticeable effect?

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Scroga

Well-Known Member
The Top booster that is. .. Can you explain more please frog? Do you use?

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a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
The Top booster that is. .. Can you explain more please frog? Do you use?

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yea, i used to use top booster. My thoughts that every time i used it i would start to prematurely yellow on leafs. since I've stopped using it, leafs are staying green.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
I am using the feed chart and my plants are turning yellow with the recommended dose. So I upped it some and now they are doing better. Anybody else had this problem?
 

Scroga

Well-Known Member
I am using the feed chart and my plants are turning yellow with the recommended dose. So I upped it some and now they are doing better. Anybody else had this problem?
What products you using all together?

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