Subcools supersoil-no density

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Ancient Forrest is a composted humus made by general hydro. It was recommend by the local shop to use 50:50 AF to worn castings as my "compost"
ahhh, well, please don't take offense to this, but they sorta kinda scammed you a lil (maybe unintentionally) the amount of microbial life (and humus) in a quality fresh EWC will absolutely be a million times more effective than their humus. Forget that stuff, concentrate on a good compost or EWC and the rest is easy (relatively)
when it comes to organics, it's crucial to have a good compost or EWC to base your microbe life on.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately I didn't mix my own soil this time. We followed subs recipe to a t. Using roots organic soil. So I can't give you an exact measurement. But from what I can tell the roots has better drainage than OF and vermifire. Those are the only soils I have to compare to it. Pumice and perlite are what are used for airation.
Ok. I would try watering with a little lighter hand. I use 7 gallon pots, which in theory should need to be watered more often than your larger containers and I do NOT water every day. A typical week will see 3 normal waterings, with maybe a light spritzing once or twice more during the week.

I have had subcools Cheese Quake in my garden through every growing style you can imagine, and the nugs are no less dense grown in organic soil than they were in hydro.
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
ahhh, well, please don't take offense to this, but they sorta kinda scammed you a lil (maybe unintentionally) the amount of microbial life (and humus) in a quality fresh EWC will absolutely be a million times more effective than their humus. Forget that stuff, concentrate on a good compost or EWC and the rest is easy (relatively)
when it comes to organics, it's crucial to have a good compost or EWC to base your microbe life on.
o
No offense taken. It's their job at the hydro store to try to upsale you, no mad at them either. That's on me for not doing my research. It's unfortunate they would do that, but no grudges held here. I will find another use for the AF I have left. Thanks for being honest, much rather have that then someone trying to be "the nice guy".
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
First time growing in soil in 6 years. And I didn't know shit 6 years ago when I tried so I barely count it. Using smart pots, and start scrogging 21 days before they go into flower. I can say with no problem the canopy was full as hell, it just never got dense or large. You might be onto something with the water, as that was the only thing I was unsure about. Each 20 gallon got 1 gallon of water every day one hour after lights came on. Is that a problem? The soil was never dry, but was never overly damp at any time.
I really don't like scheduled waterings, I've had problems with that in the past, I like to have a good inch or two layer of mulch on the surface of the soil (I actually use live redwood moss from the forest) I've found that cannabis loses the majority of it's water through soil transpiration, especially if you have a good fan or two in the room, so a mulch on the topsoil not only keeps the soil consistent, it also allows the roots to get as close to the surface as they can, and more roots is ALWAYS better.
Jam your finger in the soil (ok gently) and that's how I see if I need to water.
Also, contrary to what a lot of organic growers are saying, I do like to allow the soil to dry out a lil before watering, not to the point of the soil tension repelling the water or anything, but relatively dry. I get a better rootball from this method, many organic growers are watering too damn much, in my opinion.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
ahhh, well, please don't take offense to this, but they sorta kinda scammed you a lil (maybe unintentionally) the amount of microbial life (and humus) in a quality fresh EWC will absolutely be a million times more effective than their humus. Forget that stuff, concentrate on a good compost or EWC and the rest is easy (relatively)
when it comes to organics, it's crucial to have a good compost or EWC to base your microbe life on.
This is so important. A thriving colony of microbes will keep things on course. They do the heavy lifting, so focus most of your time/money on getting the best possible quality compost you can come up with. Home made is best (and cheapest).
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
o
No offense taken. It's their job at the hydro store to try to upsale you, no mad at them either. That's on me for not doing my research. It's unfortunate they would do that, but no grudges held here. I will find another use for the AF I have left. Thanks for being honest, much rather have that then someone trying to be "the nice guy".
you can use it, it's not garbage, it's just not ideal. Or as effective as a good EWC or compost
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
N
Ok. I would try watering with a little lighter hand. I use 7 gallon pots, which in theory should need to be watered more often than your larger containers and I do NOT water every day. A typical week will see 3 normal waterings, with maybe a light spritzing once or twice more during the week.

I have had subcools Cheese Quake in my garden through every growing style you can imagine, and the nugs are no less dense grown in organic soil than they were in hydro.
Note taken. Less water. How often do you use teas? I am likening once everyone other week. Different source of compost for certain stages of life.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
N

Note taken. Less water. How often do you use teas? I am likening once everyone other week. Different source of compost for certain stages of life.
Lately I've been doing something other than plain water once a week. So 1 week I'll brew a compost tea, the next week I'll do an aloe/silica drench, then the following week maybe a fish hydrolysate (or sst, or alfalfa/kelp tea). I have no set watering schedule. I just base it off of how the plants are doing, what stage they're at, and how motivated I'm feeling. :-)
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
Lately I've been doing something othplain water once a week. So 1 week I'll brew a compost tea, the next week I'll do an aloe/silica drench, then the following week maybe a fish hydrolysate (or sst, or alfalfa/kelp tea). I have no set watering schedule. I just base it off of how the plants are doing, what stage they're at, and how motivated I'm feeling. :-)
That's gonna take some getting used to. Hydro lets me know exactly what I have to do when I have to do it... What are you using for your carb source in teas?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
N

Note taken. Less water. How often do you use teas? I am likening once everyone other week. Different source of compost for certain stages of life.
remember with a really good soil, you don't need much as far as teas go, I personally use an AACT with simply molasses and worm castings. I don't change anything for the different stages of the plants growth. And really, if you do it right, you won't need an AACT every other week, your soil will be literally crawling with microbes after the first inoculation, perhaps even prior to that, as a good organic soil is high in microbes to start
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
remember with a really good soil, you don't need much as far as teas go, I personally use an AACT with simply molasses and worm castings. I don't change anything for the different stages of the plants growth. And really, if you do it right, you won't need an AACT every other week, your soil will be literally crawling with microbes after the first inoculation, perhaps even prior to that, as a good organic soil is high in microbes to start
Good point here. I was using a ewc tea to inoculate clones. Then various other teas here and there. The only one I saw that has visible signs was a corn sst on day 14 of flower. Plants looked beyond happy for the next 3 days. Will prob keep it to only ewc and corn sst
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Good point here. I was using a ewc tea to inoculate clones. Then various other teas here and there. The only one I saw that has visible signs was a corn sst on day 14 of flower. Plants looked beyond happy for the next 3 days. Will prob keep it to only ewc and corn sst
For clones I like to water their container/soil with an AACT about a week prior to planting the clones, and I also like to sprinkle a lot of mychorrizae on the bare roots of the clones. Probably not needed as I usually have a super weak mix of 75% promix and 25% amended soil for my clones, but they always have some really thick fuzzy white roots, so it must be working
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
For clones I like to water their container/soil with an AACT about a week prior to planting the clones, and I also like to sprinkle a lot of mychorrizae on the bare roots of the clones. Probably not needed as I usually have a super weak mix of 75% promix and 25% amended soil for my clones, but they always have some really thick fuzzy white roots, so it must be working
I do all that minus ewc the soil a week before. Might give that a try. I am making my own mychrizeaa, with ewc, small amount of mykos and oatmeal. Works great. It's grows like mycelium but has much more resistance against contaminants.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I do all that minus ewc the soil a week before. Might give that a try. I am making my own mychrizeaa, with ewc, small amount of mykos and oatmeal. Works great. It's grows like mycelium but has much more resistance against contaminants.
that's pretty cool, but how do you know if its the right type of mychorrizae? From what I've learned only a few types have been proven beneficial
kinda above my paygrade, under a microscope I couldn't tell you the difference between them
Normally I don't cut corners but I buy the mychorizae in bags, I like the xtreme mykos.
works well and is granulated and cheap, plus it has the right kind of myco in it
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
that's pretty cool, but how do you know if its the right type of mychorrizae? From what I've learned only a few types have been proven beneficial
kinda above my paygrade, under a microscope I couldn't tell you the difference between them
Normally I don't cut corners but I buy the mychorizae in bags, I like the xtreme mykos.
works well and is granulated and cheap, plus it has the right kind of myco in it
I use the same brand name "mykos" for my mychrizeaa substrate. Since it start from the proper "strain" of mychrizeaa then end result will b the same "strain". I did loose one to green mold, but that's a whole different story... Fill a small Tupperware container with ewc. Put a cup of organic oatmeal per gallon of soil. Add one tablespoon mykos per gallon of soil. Close lid and keep in a warm dark place. In a week you will have a giant ball of mychrizeaa. I did a side by side with the homemade vs store bought and homemade won hands down. There was almost no transplant shock. Plant with homemade were more vigorous all the way through.
 
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