Your CXA3590 Mission Should you Choose to Accept It !

JavaCo

Well-Known Member
It only takes 500mA of low voltage DC to stop a heart. It is the amps that get you. Personally i would be just as afraid of the 4.4 amp driver then the 1.05 amp one. Really any constant current driver should never be worked on while powered up these are quite a bit different then Constant voltage power sources. Respect , Caution and Safety should be used when working with them. Having said that the CXA and Vero design data sheets both say that these cobs should be wired in series, they dont recommend running them in parallel.

 
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Kuifje76

Well-Known Member
you guys scare me sometimes, i really get confused...
if everything get isolated (liquid heatshrink or cob-holders) and the heatsink itself is grounded and you do this all while things unplugged, where is the danger ? being stoned again ?
i don't have any education in electricity or the likes so it's healty to be a bit scared i guess
 

JavaCo

Well-Known Member
Scared is good. But you got it, using cob holders is best for the CXA, pico connectors for the Vero. If you do solder them using liquid electrical tape is a good idea. Heat shrink all your connections. Making sure you cant touch any live wires is the best practice.
We should start a DIY LED safety thread in here. Just a thought.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Scared is good. But you got it, using cob holders is best for the CXA, pico connectors for the Vero. If you do solder them using liquid electrical tape is a good idea. Heat shrink all your connections. Making sure you cant touch any live wires is the best practice.
We should start a DIY LED safety thread in here. Just a thought.
Maybe a wiring guide in general with Wiring/Led Safety as the 1st Section?

Then we could add a safety mechanisms tutorial for things like
:fuses
:bi metal switches
:Mov's
:thermistors
:fans
:grounding
:etc


Also random things for new beginners but a good resource for all alike things in one place [just off the top of my head on topics that seldomly are discussed, but maybe important]


:fan rpm controllers
:wiring voltage meters inline [series]
:wire gauges and lengths for current/voltage
:switches
etc etc


Then a general heading like:

dimming
how to select a driver
how to select a Led Diode
fans
etc
 

dimebagor

Well-Known Member
Maybe a wiring guide in general with Wiring/Led Safety as the 1st Section?

Then we could add a safety mechanisms tutorial for things like
:fuses
:bi metal switches
:Mov's
:thermistors
:fans
:grounding
:etc


Also random things for new beginners but a good resource for all alike things in one place [just off the top of my head on topics that seldomly are discussed, but maybe important]


:fan rpm controllers
:wiring voltage meters inline [series]
:wire gauges and lengths for current/voltage
:switches
etc etc


Then a general heading like:

dimming
how to select a driver
how to select a Led Diode
fans
etc
Yeah , thats why there is a some much questions about Led
If you want to buy a commercial lamp , you gotta know so much things ,
and if you want to make a DIY , you gotta to have good eletronic notion ,
which isnt the case of ppls.

Guys the time to know , that needed to we gotta look at the output voltage and current on the driver,
cuz when you are noob , you don't know this, and its not an easy search on google , after this , you d/l datasheet , and ???
what you see its real chinese language ...numbers , symbol , formul in all way , abrevations ....
and you dont know the things to know on the specs which matches to the led you want to drive

Likely there is guys like Java , Supra ect ... who help really a lot

but I understand that make a tutorial like this would take so many time

You know , I read the Sailordust topic , what an beautiful project , serious , he impressive me ,
but I didn't understood half on what he said on electronic way.
Like on the arduino system , so cool thing to put in your DIY , I read all things , but I wouldn't be capable to make work the things
Because I don't have all primary notion.
Any way it would be more difficult for me cause if someone make a tuto , it wont be in my language , and in English , its not easy for non English when its technic terms
 

reasonevangelist

Well-Known Member
DB, are you set up for 240V, I noticed that a few of those drivers are not compatible with 120V, not sure if that affects you. Also, the CEN-75-36 maxes out at 36Vf but the Vero29 at 2.1A would be about 38Vf at startup temp. And finally, that SatisLED 2.4 driver might not put out as much current as it advertises. I am in the process of ordering and testing drivers in that range to see how they perform.

The CXA3590 3000K BB bin at 1.8A = 28% efficient (typical) and dissipates 150W.
The Vero 29 3000K at 2.4A = 37% efficient (typical) and dissipates 92W.

I agree POS, the 150W setup might be too much for the Alpine 11, I have not tested them that high. You would probably be better off with something with a larger capacity. The 92W setup would be good to go.
I haven't measured the temps, but my alpine 11 SEEMS to have performed adequately with a pair of cxa3070 Z4, each @~+/-1A+. It got a little warm to the touch, but there was only one time it ever felt "hot," and that was because i had the fan(s) unplugged for "a while," while i was messing with stuff. It never got too hot, even without the fan... but it was getting there i guess. I didn't leave the fan off forever though, and i wouldn't recommend it! lol.

My guess is a conservatively/moderately driven 3590 will be just fine on an Alpine 11, as long as it's properly cleaned/pasted/mounted (not the plan, but wouldn't be worried if it came to that).

I do wonder though, if the fan failed, how long it would take... or if the heat generated would be enough to eclipse the catastrophe threshold, or whether it would just sort of... reach equilibrium at an uncomfortably high temp, but not high enough to cause failure. That heat is still dissipating, albeit at a much lower rate... and that heated air is being pulled out through the filter, so there's more less-heated air coming in, gently wicking away that heat... obviously not an ideal or optimal scenario, but maybe someone can calculate it (i wouldn't know where to begin), so that we can figure out "t-minus xx until cob destruction," when knowing the rate at which the rate of heat accumulation exceeds to environment's capacity to dissipate it. Like, how many 'hours' would you have, with a given device, at given power/heat parameters, with more/less fresh and/or recirculated air, until the event horizon is breached? Just thinking into the box. :P
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Last night I tested a generic 100W COB at 3.2A on a smallish but good CPU cooler Rosewill RCX-Z100. The COB was dissipating about 120W and fan running at 5V (.5W). It had no problem handling the heat and COB efficiency was really sagging so it was probably 30W of light, 90W of heat. Based on that I think the Alpine 11 could run a CXA3590 safely at 150W and you could increase fan sped to help out of course, but a heatsink with a higher capacity could probably be found for about the same price on ebay and do a better job. In your case, CXA3070 Z4 X2 @ 1A (~75W), it should be no problemo.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member

JavaCo

Well-Known Member
...more pics about your lamp... please...

...thanks in advance...

saludos
Here is one more. It is still a work in progress. Going to have to add more powerful fans in the top ones i got in there are not quite cutting it. My Temps were getting in the 40's so i had to add fans on the endsof the heat sinks. Still Have to make Dials for the Dimming pots and the top part needs to be made still. Hopefully it will spin when i get it done.

 

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
....wow... ...i like it... ...inspirative....

...more pics... others only with the leds + heatsink too close.... and others with the central case ....front bottom upside downside ... ;)

...thanks a lot....

saludos
 
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cityworker415

Well-Known Member
Here is one more. It is still a work in progress. Going to have to add more powerful fans in the top ones i got in there are not quite cutting it. My Temps were getting in the 40's so i had to add fans on the endsof the heat sinks. Still Have to make Dials for the Dimming pots and the top part needs to be made still. Hopefully it will spin when i get it done.

Good lord man, dam.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Rollitup mobile app
 
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