COB choice for small space DIY

Voidling

Voidling

Well-Known Member
@8/10

Those things may be true if plants were allowed to grow freely long term. But with our limited height I flowered shortly after rooting clones. So 8 weeks of root growth is all it gets. From my limited testing, not long enough to cause problems.

If one uses organic nutes I think one could leave old roots in place and let bacteria and maybe a few worms break them down to feed new plants some.


Edit
https://www.rollitup.org/t/does-anyone-use-the-freaken-wick-system-anymore.125375/

https://www.rollitup.org/t/simple-hydroponics-the-wick-system.8622/

Dankswag seems to have done a bit with organic wicking
https://www.rollitup.org/t/flowering-soon-in-phogs.669922/
 
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8

8/10

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info, Voidling, I'll be checking those links out.

@ellydee ok I got it. I see the V is specified when looking at cxa's on ebay and such.

And for the heatsink, I like the ideas. The one about drilling holes on the top might be an option (if it turns out to be necessary, the heatsink will be quite large and I have several fans with heatsinks like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/55mm-2-Pin-VGA-Video-Graphics-Card-Heatsink-Cooler-Cooling-Fan-Copper-Tone-/360896556450?pt=Computing_ComputerComponents_Fans_Heatsinks_SR&hash=item54071c6da2. I've got about 10-15 of those I don't know if they'll turn out to be usable. I also got three cpu heatsinks with fan, you know the type.) but the cab is really a stealth grow and it will be hard to explain that set up to my guests. Drilling on the back and placing some heatsink on the back of the cab is the alternative. It would be cool and effective. Might even support the whole lamp that way.

I also got a large sheet of copper maybe 1/8 inch thick. If I were to glue that to the aluminum slab with thermal epoxy, which side should be covered, the top or the bottom? Or is it unnecessary?

This project will turn out to be a lot cheaper than I thought. The cxa1304 (9V!) @700mA ~10 of those will probably do the trick here. I was this close to ordering the 3070 before I decided to post on this forum, so thanks! (The Vero's might be a better option but I can't find them on ebay or ali and the shipping cost from electronics sites are too big. We have a toll fee system in this country that minimizes each purchase to avoid that fee.)

The LedEngins will also be spread out evenly and the reds will have their own driver so I can turn them on @flowertime.
 
Dloomis514

Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
8/10 said:
Thanks for the info, Voidling, I'll be checking those links out.

@ellydee ok I got it. I see the V is specified when looking at cxa's on ebay and such.

And for the heatsink, I like the ideas. The one about drilling holes on the top might be an option (if it turns out to be necessary, the heatsink will be quite large and I have several fans with heatsinks like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/55mm-2-Pin-VGA-Video-Graphics-Card-Heatsink-Cooler-Cooling-Fan-Copper-Tone-/360896556450?pt=Computing_ComputerComponents_Fans_Heatsinks_SR&hash=item54071c6da2. I've got about 10-15 of those I don't know if they'll turn out to be usable. I also got three cpu heatsinks with fan, you know the type.) but the cab is really a stealth grow and it will be hard to explain that set up to my guests. Drilling on the back and placing some heatsink on the back of the cab is the alternative. It would be cool and effective. Might even support the whole lamp that way.

I also got a large sheet of copper maybe 1/8 inch thick. If I were to glue that to the aluminum slab with thermal epoxy, which side should be covered, the top or the bottom? Or is it unnecessary?

This project will turn out to be a lot cheaper than I thought. The cxa1304 (9V!) @700mA ~10 of those will probably do the trick here. I was this close to ordering the 3070 before I decided to post on this forum, so thanks! (The Vero's might be a better option but I can't find them on ebay or ali and the shipping cost from electronics sites are too big. We have a toll fee system in this country that minimizes each purchase to avoid that fee.)

The LedEngins will also be spread out evenly and the reds will have their own driver so I can turn them on @flowertime.
Click to expand...
Any idea how much power that heatsink is supposed to handle?, it only weighs a little over an ounce.
I also wonder if cutting holes will help, seems to me that might interrupt the heat flow thru the metal, which is a piss poor way of explaining what i mean, sorry.
 
8

8/10

Well-Known Member
Dloomis514 said:
Any idea how much power that heatsink is supposed to handle?, it only weighs a little over an ounce.
I also wonder if cutting holes will help, seems to me that might interrupt the heat flow thru the metal, which is a piss poor way of explaining what i mean, sorry.
Click to expand...

I don't know how much they are supposed to dissipate. But 10-15 of those would help a lot, and their low profile is perfect for getting the lamp as close to the roof as possible.

The heatsink will be large and with the top covered in ribbed aluminum pieces like bicit suggested, only making room for 10-15 of those small heatsinks, I think that might be enough?
 
Dloomis514

Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
i had missed the point you were going to put them on the heatsink, i thought you were going to attach the COBs driectrly to them, they should move enuf air if you have a dozen cousin!

Bicit sounds about right to me.
 
Voidling

Voidling

Well-Known Member
Oh, the other part of using shallow container is need to stake plants up. But with limited headroom might need to lst anyway
 
8

8/10

Well-Known Member
Yeah, but I'll be running a tight scrog so hopefully that won't be an issue. There was a guide somewhere online it was a "4-way lst scrog guide" or something like it, I'll be following that pretty closely. With this new lamp and that scrog technique I'm expecting some decent results!
 
Voidling

Voidling

Well-Known Member
Good plan. Going to scrog over skewers was my planned improvement next grow.

Also the pvc water manifold gave me issues. If you give it a try, either keep it lifted above the soil or put the holes on the side to keep soil from clumping and clogging.

Actually I'll go post on my thread in preparation for my new grow
 
nomofatum

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
How much more headspace are you losing to fans and 3 dimensional heatsinks? I would recommend going with individual emitters instead of a COB. Using plates like this or they also have strip versions. By spacing them apart on a aluminum plate you give enough cooling that they shouldn't overheat but take up no additional head-space in a cab with fans or 3D heatsinks. They also can provide perfect light distribution if you pick your pcb/plate shape well.

I also like the bonus that the plate can't break-down/fail like a fan can.
 
elektrician

elektrician

Active Member
8/10 said:
my details:

cab dimensions
H: 25.6"
W: 29.5"
D: 17.7"

Square feet: 3.6
Click to expand...

i seem to be unable to convert these measurements into the metric system. :bigjoint::oops:

i am thinking of a diy panel for flowering myself, and am still lurking threads for more understanding. thanks in advance
 
nomofatum

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
Voidling said:
The arctic heatsink with fan that is recommended is 3" tall combined
Click to expand...
That is over 10% of your space, you need only give up about 3/4 of one inch for your lighting. You need to keep the plants 6" away too, so you lose about 10" vs about 7" depending on what you choose. It's considerable, you could lose 10% or more of your harvest just because of the shape of your lights.
 
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8

8/10

Well-Known Member
@nomofatum Are you suggesting a passive setup with those boards mounted on an aluminum plate vs a setup with cob's aluminum plate and heatsink+fan on top? Cause I agree that the big cpu heatsinks on top of the lamp would compromise on height...

That's why I was thinking about these little guys http://www.ebay.com/itm/55mm-2-Pin-VGA-Video-Graphics-Card-Heatsink-Cooler-Cooling-Fan-Copper-Tone-/360896556450?pt=Computing_ComputerComponents_Fans_Heatsinks_SR&hash=item54071c6da2

they are only 0.5"!

But then again, I don't HAVE to have cob's instead of regular emitters. I do want them though..

@ elektrician you can also google "inch cm" and get a bunch of online converters. works with any convertion like "pounds kilo" or "usd gbp" as well.
 
elektrician

elektrician

Active Member
8/10 said:
@ elektrician you can also google "inch cm" and get a bunch of online converters. works with any convertion like "pounds kilo" or "usd gbp" as well.
Click to expand...
i couldnt figure out what the symbol " referred to... :oops: :joint:


/edit: deleted nofamtum from the quote
 
Dloomis514

Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
8/10 said:
@nomofatum Are you suggesting a passive setup with those boards mounted on an aluminum plate vs a setup with cob's aluminum plate and heatsink+fan on top? Cause I agree that the big cpu heatsinks on top of the lamp would compromise on height...

That's why I was thinking about these little guys http://www.ebay.com/itm/55mm-2-Pin-VGA-Video-Graphics-Card-Heatsink-Cooler-Cooling-Fan-Copper-Tone-/360896556450?pt=Computing_ComputerComponents_Fans_Heatsinks_SR&hash=item54071c6da2

they are only 0.5"!

But then again, I don't HAVE to have cob's instead of regular emitters. I do want them though..

@ elektrician you can also google "inch cm" and get a bunch of online converters. works with any convertion like "pounds kilo" or "usd gbp" as well.
Click to expand...
Google does conversions. Type 12 inches = and hit enter for the answer
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=12+inches+=
 
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