ttystikk
Well-Known Member
NICE lights! I don't know how your plants will react.
If negative pressure, then slow down the rate of air turnover.
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If negative pressure, then slow down the rate of air turnover.
a senile fungus
Well-Known Member
Ah! Well then another issue!
I have a max fan pro 8" 863cfm that has three speed settings, its currently on low. I could use a fan speed controller to bring it even lower but lowering it lower than low can cause increased strain on the motor, no?
Maybe once I get my carbon filter rigged up it'll make the fan work a bit harder and it pull more slowly...
I guess either that or I need a less powerful fan?
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
It needs to be on a thermostat so it only runs when temps climb.
a senile fungus
Well-Known Member
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
These aren't expensive.
a senile fungus
Well-Known Member
One caveat, if I put the blower on a timer or thermostat then I'll be letting in cold wintry air when its off.
The cold air will back track through the ducting if the air pressure isn't keeping it at bay...
The cold air will back track through the ducting if the air pressure isn't keeping it at bay...
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Flaps over the ends of your ductwork are your friends. You can even weight them so they don't fly open when the fan isn't running. I do this all over my op.
a senile fungus
Well-Known Member
Maybe this with those foam adhesive strips to ensure a fairly good seal.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Think of the flap like a hinge; closed when the fan isn't running, but can be pushed open by the action of the fan.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Having done some homework on spectrum and which parts of it have what effect on the plants, it's become clearer to me why the initial CDM experiment was unsuccessful.
HPS produces way more light in the red spectrum, which signals the plant to flower, and is apparently the source of much of the 'oomph' in light that plants use to grow. The blue/indigo/UV spectra help with trichome formation but they don't give quite the same signal to the plant to set bud and GROW like HPS does.
Then I revisited the math regarding watts per square foot of my Super Silos, it's roughly 20W/ft². If I added a CDM in the middle of the silo, between two HPS lamps at either end, I might get more yield AND a better spectrum balance. This increases the relative intensity to 30W/ft².
I'll get CDM heavy growth in the middle- but never without HPS from both above and below- and the entire silo should get good blue spectrum augmentation.
I'm just dreaming on it for now, but I'm not seeing a lot of downside. The additional heat is much less than an extra 50% and temps are well under control...
HPS produces way more light in the red spectrum, which signals the plant to flower, and is apparently the source of much of the 'oomph' in light that plants use to grow. The blue/indigo/UV spectra help with trichome formation but they don't give quite the same signal to the plant to set bud and GROW like HPS does.
Then I revisited the math regarding watts per square foot of my Super Silos, it's roughly 20W/ft². If I added a CDM in the middle of the silo, between two HPS lamps at either end, I might get more yield AND a better spectrum balance. This increases the relative intensity to 30W/ft².
I'll get CDM heavy growth in the middle- but never without HPS from both above and below- and the entire silo should get good blue spectrum augmentation.
I'm just dreaming on it for now, but I'm not seeing a lot of downside. The additional heat is much less than an extra 50% and temps are well under control...
awesome grow thread ttyl. Everything from the water cooling, staged vegging, vertical lights, to the diy airless rdwc with flexible (so much fucking easier!) hose is valuable for the rest of us. Thanks for sharing!
I actually recall a few years back wondering if i could get away with flexible hose in the rdwc back at the farm. IIRC, you were the only one saying it was possible while everyone else nay say'd the idea (omg your lines will clog! there's no way! you need the pain the ass rigid pvc at least 2" etc). Proof is in the pudding. Nice job.
I actually recall a few years back wondering if i could get away with flexible hose in the rdwc back at the farm. IIRC, you were the only one saying it was possible while everyone else nay say'd the idea (omg your lines will clog! there's no way! you need the pain the ass rigid pvc at least 2" etc). Proof is in the pudding. Nice job.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
One HPS thouie hanging up near the top, an 860W CDM in the middle and an HPS thouie near the bottom. I'm thinking of mounting the two bottom lamps on a horizontal bar that itself mounts to a vertical post adjacent to the silo.
It won't achieve spectrum uniformity throughout the silo, but it would be an improvement.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
It's been a minute since I've posted about anything new, but once again I'm trying something different.
As designed, my Super Silos currently run about twenty watts per square foot worth of HPS thouies. I've been concerned about whether that's enough light for the ladies to be all they can be. Flatlander grows regularly run 55-65W/ft² so I'm wondering if I'm leaving something on the table.
So what I've come up with for an experimental design is to cut my Super Silo right down the middle and put the two halves up against the wall- but use the same watts in each half, so I'm effectively doubling my watts per square foot.
If low light levels are the problem, doubling the available light should go a long way towards solving it. And yet this still represents just half to 2/3 of the industry standard HPS lighting per square foot; each trellis panel is twenty four square feet and I've lit that with TWO thouies in sealed in vented hoods in my flatlander days.
As designed, my Super Silos currently run about twenty watts per square foot worth of HPS thouies. I've been concerned about whether that's enough light for the ladies to be all they can be. Flatlander grows regularly run 55-65W/ft² so I'm wondering if I'm leaving something on the table.
So what I've come up with for an experimental design is to cut my Super Silo right down the middle and put the two halves up against the wall- but use the same watts in each half, so I'm effectively doubling my watts per square foot.
If low light levels are the problem, doubling the available light should go a long way towards solving it. And yet this still represents just half to 2/3 of the industry standard HPS lighting per square foot; each trellis panel is twenty four square feet and I've lit that with TWO thouies in sealed in vented hoods in my flatlander days.
ODanksta
Well-Known Member
I really want to try plasma lighting, just dont have the cash to blow. I use to use CDM at the hydroshop I use to manage. Id get great growth the first 4 weeks then after four weeks it wouldnt do shit.
At home I use HPS start finish, and a single 8 year old 24" T5 for clones and germination. But I have to admit the buds flowered under the MH are way more frosty..
Hey tty do use individual RDWC or are you using a controller? And what size uniseals or pvc? And have you had and issues with the pipes clogging?
I saw some dude using a recycling shallow water cultivation areoponic hybrid system.. he was using 32 gallon trash cans with misters in them.. pretty sick system he had, but seemed like to much room for a error for me.. but is was purty cool.. I would have just filled the 32 gal trash cans with soil it probably would have been better...
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ODanksta
Well-Known Member
Plants look awesome but the genetics look not so great.. Is that, that dirty white boy shit? The only reason I say that is,because the nugs look small like 1 gram nugs everywhere.. when I breed my seeds I look for single cola domnitate plants I try to breed plants that are super easy to trim. I just cut down SLxHxJHxWW vegged for 20 days and flowered for 50 days got 3 ounces off her, and she took a whole 10 mins to trim..
My secret version of GSC's doesnt even need trimming, just pull of the fan leaves and you're good to go..