...All Things Vero...

[Bueno Time]

Also some pics I took of the visual spectrum differences side by side when I was looking at the spectrums to help decide which to go with.

All are Vero 10 80CRI versions.

3000K vs 2700K

5000K vs 2700K

3000K vs 3500K

4000K vs 3500K

 

[Abiqua]

Vero 10 base sockets for Ledil Mirella 50 reflectors $ .54 ea
http://www.newark.com/ledil/c13708-pf-socket-vero10/base-part-pc-white-reflector/dp/67X9734

Datasheet: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1850797.pdf

Also have a coupon code for 15% off @Newark until 1/31
[just received an email from them today, ordered some ChipLok's a week ago...cool]

We appreciate your business and as a thank you we would like to extend to you a 15% voucher off your web and phone orders. To take advantage of this limited offer please visit our award winning website www.Newark.com.

Voucher code THANKS44 can be used from November 1 through January 31, 2015.

*Discount applies to the first price-break quantities only. Discount cannot be combined with other offers, promotions, quantity discounts, or contract pricing. Contractual considerations with a small number of manufactures may reduce or prevent a voucher discount on selected items including test equipment; call us with questions relating to voucher exclusions. Non-catalog items are not subject to a voucher discount.

 

[AquariusPanta]

@Abiqua

You bought out all the inventory!



I finally finished my COB fixture yesterday - it bears 6x Vero 18s with 2x of 3000K, 3500K, & 4000K. Now 2x of them are driven @1050mA and 4x are ran at 700mA.

They are all attached to the same main but the 700mA booT up a second or two slower than the 1050mA.

Weird huh?

 

[Abiqua]

@Abiqua

You bought out all the inventory!



I finally finished my COB fixture yesterday - it bears 6x Vero 18s with 2x of 3000K, 3500K, & 4000K. Now 2x of them are driven @1050mA and 4x are ran at 700mA.

They are all attached to the same main but the 700mA booT up a second or two slower than the 1050mA.

Weird huh?

I wish I had bought them all out, lol, that means I would have some loot to burn.....

As far as staggered "on", not really that weird actually, more to do with component selection of drivers I believe, although I don't know the actual circuity "problem" that causes this, but I do notice my 300 mA drivers take a fraction longer to switch on than my 600mA, so maybe it all has to do with the lower the current.....?

I think it is fairly normal for there to be a small pause before it switches on, in any driver, however, I don't know if there should be a difference between current amounts?

Interesting scenario....!

 

[Cococola36]

You guys make this look so damn easy! lol I am ready to take the plunge but not confident on wiring no matter how many diagrams I make or threads i research

 

[AquariusPanta]

You guys make this look so damn easy! lol I am ready to take the plunge but not confident on wiring no matter how many diagrams I make or threads i research

Ask me any and every question you have Cola, as I, and perhaps others, would be happy to serve as a COB building guide.

 

[Cococola36]

Well you opened a can of worms @AquariusPanta hahaha just kidding....So far, 8 vero 29 3500k, Arctic alpine plus 11 coolers, pico ez mates and my apollo 16 unit as a shell with possible drivers to use. i was told to wire in parallel ac-ac, dc-dc ...I pretty much grasp the "concept" and should be ok lol maybe ...is there a way to wire up the arctic cooler fans in with the mix? I want the build to be wired up so that ONE switch turns it all on like any other panel would
Edit: also wanted to use a thermal grease or epoxy as drilling and tapping is wayyyy out of my league...and dont want to buy a drill press lol

 

[AquariusPanta]

@Cococola36

I like fishing and eating sour candy, so these worms aren't a big ordeal

I'm not familiar with thermal adhesive but I assume it's very similar to TIM or what I use, PK3, in that you apply a very thin layer on each of the COBs. I specifically apply it to the metal square of my Vero 18s and use @SupraSPL' s 30-60 second pressure rule after application. Remember, don't press dowm to hard on the COB or you may damage it.

Wiring isn't that bad but it can be intimidating. With all 8x COBs hooked to a power cord, you will want to ground that cord. I did this with my most recent fixture as it has ~160V running through it. It had my nerves a little pinned up at first .

 

[AquariusPanta]

Having everything wired to one cord, on the fixture, is something I haven't mastered as I use high-powered drivers for my COBs and cellphone/tablet chargers for my fans. The drivers can have their AC wires soldered directly into the power cord while my fan PSU (5V, 2A) plugs into a socket rather than providing AC wires. However, this doesn't mean you couldn't find a lesser-powered driver for your fans with the option of wiring it into the main power cord, therefore simplifying you setup.

Running the fans in parallel will divide the amp consumption but will offer the same voltage amongst your fans (recommended). As far as your COB drivers, I will need additional information. I designate a single driver to each of my COBs but ideally you'd have a $70 high-powered driver powering all your COBs in series and not parallel.

 

[Cococola36]

@Cococola36

I like fishing and eating sour candy, so these worms aren't a big ordeal

I'm not familiar with thermal adhesive but I assume it's very similar to TIM or what I use, PK3, in that you apply a very thin layer on each of the COBs. I specifically apply it to the metal square of my Vero 18s and use @SupraSPL' s 30-60 second pressure rule after application. Remember, don't press dowm to hard on the COB or you may damage it.

Wiring isn't that bad but it can be intimidating. With all 8x COBs hooked to a power cord, you will want to ground that cord. I did this with my most recent fixture as it has ~160V running through it. It had my nerves a little pinned up at first .

hahaha, some good input , i read on bridgelux website about applying to the metal square as well since its on the vero 29 i assume just bigger than the vero 18, I did not know about the 30-60 second pressure so thanks. I'll be careful when the time comes. Yea to be honest the wiring is the ONLY thing that has me a lil bit worried. But i think if I just follow how my apollo is wired up all should be good since its all in parallel and prob follows the same rules.

 

[AquariusPanta]

I believe my BlackStar to be wired similarly as your Apollo. I remember the drivers for the LEDs being around 300mA. Following the Apollo wiring structure is a great way to understand where power goes in and out and should prove easier to COB out.

A great way for you to enter the COB fixture DIY realm, undoubtedly.

 

[Mo!]

However, this doesn't mean you couldn't find a lesser-powered driver for your fans with the option of wiring it into the main power cord, therefore simplifying you setup.

I don't have them right now (away from my laptop for the day) but I did find some power supplies I was going to use on my drivers that had multiple voltage outputs just like PC power supplies do. You can find them with a 5v and 12v output depending on what your fans need to run on.

 

[coolbreez1]

One of the reason my build runs 6 x Vero 29s is because that is about as much juice as I felt I could reasonable pull with one cord from a standard wall outlet.

 

[ballist]

One of the reason my build runs 6 x Vero 29s is because that is about as much juice as I felt I could reasonable pull with one cord from a standard wall outlet.

How hard are you running them. It is the amount of power drawn from the socket that is the limiting factor they rate GPOs in terms of current usually. So at 110 vac thats 1100 watts or double for 220.vac for a 10 amp gpo.

 

[AquariusPanta]

Total amperage of a COB fixture was a concern for me with my last project, as I had multiple drivers rather that one mega one, which in effect drains more amperage. This is because everything from the wall to the main power cord is running in parallel.

While the fixture was pulling ~175W, it was relying on ~5A - around 1/2 the total offered (safely) by the fuse/switcher.

 

[coolbreez1]

I know I could add a few more COBs safely without pulling to much from the wall outlet, I just like to be overly safe.

Running 6 x LPF-90-42, and one LPF-20-12. So 6x 0.95A / 115VAC, so 6.5 amps in, I could run 2x the lights on one cord safely?

I think a 12 x Vero 29 LED array might be a bit unwieldy. Would have to mount all the power supplies on a large piece of plywood and run cords to the array.

 

[AquariusPanta]

@coolbreez1

It depends on the room you're growing in. For example, a bedroom may have 15A dedicated to it's sockets while the bathroom 10A. The switches on my switchbox typically show this. I was unfamiliar with this until recently as I had no previous business paying attention to it.

Your responsible for checking your math and accounting a saftey factor of around .8 (If you have 15A to play with, up to 12A would be safe to use on a continuous, prolonged basis, i.e. 18/6).

 

[coolbreez1]

This would be why I felt like 6 lights for each array seemed reasonable 6.5A per plug seemed like a nice safe low ball number. Operating under the assumption that the cap per plug was between 10-15A.

 

[coolbreez1]

Price of the Vero 29s on digikey has dropped to $28.21 for most models. I wonder if that means they will be getting the new ones in soon.

 

[bicit]

Does anyone have any thoughts on 80 cri 4000k vs 70cri 5000k emitters for a pure veg lamp?