Too late, now I want to.Yeah, thats a little crazy, survives a stabbing even....I bet you could remove parts of the LES in a way that didn't f'up the underneath contacts for actual diode, it probably would still work and shine blu-ish where the missing LES was previously located, I betcha, just a hunch....
@AquariusPanta PS, NOT that you would want to, just in a worse case kind of scenarios, seen it on other diodes this way.....after an "accident"
Usually, you can control PWM drivers with an Arduino directly. Non-PWM drivers can be turn on/off with an relay and some basic electronics. Something like one of these.Do I need PWM drivers for an Arduino to shut them off? Not necessarily dim, just turn on/off. Or a PWM relay, if such a thing even exists?
Want to pick up an Ard UNO this week..and start pushing buttons!
Running in parallel can cause current hogging. Here is a screen shot from the vero design PDF ...
thanks for the reply,have you heard of anyone that has done this and it caused issues or is this just more likely to cause a problem with the slight variations in current draw?Running in parallel can cause current hogging. Here is a screen shot from the vero design PDF ...
No as far as i know most folks run them in series. I think there is one guy in here that has wired his in parallel. I dont think he has had any issues i know about, yet. I was just pointing out what Bridgelux says about running them in parallel. Not only can is cause current hogging it also can cause non uniform flux and color. Who knows maybe the plants will like it better. But yeah you can do it parallel if you want , if you get some veros that have closely matched Vf there shouldnt be a problem, I just tend to go by Data sheets these chips and drivers are not cheap at least when you get into the high wattage ones. They also say it can affect reliability. So I go by the " better safe then sorry " route and follow the Bridgelux recommendation.
maybbe your right better playing it safe and not wasting the money if it advises against it so better to get 2 or 3 20w drivers and run each led on there own so that way no fighting over current. would you say 40w of vero 13 would be sufficient for rooting clones in a pc case or go with 60w?
I'd like to think 40W would suffice for raising clones but how large is the area?
Yeah dude, adding supplemental LEDs has worked wonders for veteran growers such as @SupraSPL and @Positivity (sorry if I didn't include you - means I haven't payed attention to your "garden" or/and I could care less about it).
You can run them off of one driver in series. This is what the design sheets says to do so they run at the same current. So no current hogging when run in series.
It took me a while to settle on a design i was satisfied with but i have finally gotten there. I actually have 3 different luminaires in mind.Welcome to the partyit's about time you showed up
I am flowering with 4x Vero 10 3500k in basically a 35x35cm space...They are run between 250mA and 300mA....so for clones, I would suggest just going with two maybe even just one Vero 10 5000k in the space for clones only. Supra, has ran as little as 4 watts/ per 25cm2 in a veg space....and as far as height, I would allow as much height as you can get away with inside your space.....
OK good that helps out. Good to know its more efficient the higher its ran. I guess that should have been common sense due to the fact the Vero is made to run hard. Yeah I checked out the HLG models but as you said I noticed they're more expensive and sense I'm only adding one for supplemental lighting I chose a less expensive route. When I do decide to run a full COB setup I'll just get everything that's best for that setup. Appreciate the insight. Curious to know why you didn't mention the NPF-90D-42?
Thanks for that, hasn't even thought about running vero 10s as I didn't realise they needed such a small amount of light so looks like I'll just be buying 3 vero 10s as I think spreading the light of a bit will be better than just concentrated by 1 led in the middle.
