...All Things Vero...

[240sxing]

Thats because the capacitors hold power for some time , sorry I didnt read your driver setup up but regardless anything DIY you should test for long period of time. Especially anything that requires power and produces heat.

And that looks like a nice setup , Im about to update my light with some 10 reds or more v18s or something , convert the whole house over. lol

 

[Abiqua]

Hey guys, i finally got a vero 10 fired up and noticed that with it unplugged from the wall but still connected to the driver it glows for some time. Not sure what to think of this. Is the driver pooched? Is it safe to use?
View attachment 3341749 View attachment 3341750 View attachment 3341751

I wonder if this is another infamous mislabeled driver? Supra mentioned something about N and L being hooked up backwards and the die would still glow for a bit even after being turned off.....similar?
have you checked resistance at all when you shut it off?

 

[coolbreez1]

What do you mean by some time? As 420sxing says the capacitors hold power for some time. If you are saying 2-7 seconds (random numbers) I would suspect this would be the case with any driver. If you are saying 5 minutes, then that would be something else.

 

[DonPetro]

Anyone have experience with these cheapo drivers from ebay? The damn wires on the dc side seem to be backwards. Can i assume that they are connected properly within driver...black to +, red to -? If so i will just do red to black and black to red coming from the ezmate harness.
View attachment 3340417

Good call. Thanks man.
View attachment 3340456

Nice, glad it worked...just had this problem with a power supply the other day....no markings for either 4 wires and had to get at the board to make sure which was which, I was lucky too...

I wonder if this is another infamous mislabeled driver? Supra mentioned something about N and L being hooked up backwards and the die would still glow for a bit even after being turned off.....similar?

have you checked resistance at all when you shut it off?

They did have the wires coming out the wrong holes. I had popped it open and seen that they are connected to the correct points on the board. Unless the board is stamped wrong. I dont have a multi-meter at this point so i don't have any numbers to share.

 

[DonPetro]

Regardless, that little cob sure is bright! Can hardly wait to see the dual 18's @ 1750mA.

 

[avnewb]

Ya seems the driver is hooked to 120 wrong is what is causing it to stay lit (live and nutral swapped as others said). Check it or be lazy and just swap wires.

 

[avnewb]

Now that I've had my cup of tea and have realized how your comment relates to GG's, I must explain the relevance behind my comment, specifically the one targeting CRI.

As far as I know, one can order COBs in a multitude of choices, with some varying in CCT or CRI. Each of these choices offers different colors for both the human eye and plant to absorb, while the latter is the focus in this subject.

While CCT is our primary target when considering the various COB choices in a given lineup, CRI has been of secondary importance. GG and Avnewb present reasonable points about color to human eye not mattering, as we are trying to illuminate the environment for our plants, whether they be tomatoes, peppers, or the cannabis plant, all the while supplementing their varying spectra needs.

However, there must be some significance to the CRI value of the different COBs on the market and while I don't have a direct answer to why it should be important for the consumer to choose one over another, I have witnessed popular and credible RIU members point out and demonstrate the advantages of using 80 CRI rather than 70 or 90 CRI.

Edit, got my answer
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-cree-cxa3070.789575/page-132#post-11276157

/edit
So if I can only get 70cri should I or should I wait? I just realized the 35 vero10 5ks I bought were 70cri. The 15 vero 29 3ma I ordered yesterday were 80 cri. Was about to order a few more before sale ends and all newark has us 70cri. Going on idea that stuff is blocked to increse cri u would think 70 would be best but obviously prob more going on. Anyways. Just wondering if I should order 5 more vero 10s and a few more 29s for 19% off even thou 70cri or wait and just get from digikey at full price.

Edit
got my answer
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-cree-cxa3070.789575/page-132#post-11276157

 

[churchhaze]

the 5000k 70cri ones are slightly more efficienct than the 3000k 80cri ones because fewer blue photons absorbed and reemitted as a wide band centered around yellow. This conversion is not 100% efficient, and the more blue that's converted to the wide band, the lower total efficiency of the system, with pure blue leds being the most efficient.

Even though 5000k 70cri might be more efficient than 3000k 80cri, it's likely too much blue for flowering, and not enough wide band light. That's the reason for accepting slightly lower efficiency there, to get the correct amount of wide band light for flowering.

Like GG was saying ,the 91+ cri versions have significantly less output power than the same color temperature 80cri versions, and only gain a tiny bit of power in far-red, which the 80cri has enough of anyway.

 

[stardustsailor]

Flux is probably growing with his lights instead of talking about them.

Yes I hope so ,too ..
Still ,there are few ways around, to produce flowers utilising LED tech ...
A flower for you ,brother GG.


Cheers.

 

[salmonetin]

...my best wishes to MrFlux and Guod... ...wherever you are... ...i miss you guys... stars of my sky...

...SDS... what a beautiful present... or piece of art...

saludos

 

[DonPetro]

Ya seems the driver is hooked to 120 wrong is what is causing it to stay lit (live and nutral swapped as others said). Check it or be lazy and just swap wires.

It stays lit with no power going in(unplugged from wall, connected to driver) so i switched the AC wires and it still lit up normally and glowed after being turned off. I suspect its something on the DC side but my first thought was that it was lingering power stored by the capacitor.

 

[avnewb]

Im confused as to which arctic alpines you all are using for vero29s.
I first order Arctic alpine 64 GT r2s, then canceled as realized the vero29 would stick out past the lump on the bottom so ordered arctic alpine 11 plus but just realized they also have a wedge on the bottom like the alpine 64 GT rev 2? So the vero 29 sticks off it? right?
I think I need to get the 64 plus or 11 GT rev 2...?

I dont know how big that lump is on any but the 64 GT R2s as I have on of those to measure.

I figure it may not matter as the back metal pad is same size as 3070;
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-cree-cxa3070.789575/page-109#post-11129384

Still, just trying to decide which coolers will work best for vero29s and havent seen pics yet but working my way thru the thread.

 

[AquariusPanta]

Im confused as to which arctic alpines you all are using for vero29s.
I first order Arctic alpine 64 GT r2s, then canceled as realized the vero29 would stick out past the lump on the bottom so ordered arctic alpine 11 plus but just realized they also have a wedge on the bottom like the alpine 64 GT rev 2? So the vero 29 sticks off it? right?
I think I need to get the 64 plus or 11 GT rev 2...?

The Arctic Alpine 11 Plus is a popular choice for Vero 18/29 builds.

You can order them from Newegg.com for ~$10 w/ free shipping.

 

[avnewb]

The Arctic Alpine 11 Plus is a popular choice for Vero 18/29 builds.

You can order them from Newegg.com for ~$10 w/ free shipping.

I ordered 15 but when I went to check amps I saw this pic

and so measured my GT 64 R2 wedge and it is 1.5" wide and vero 29 is 1.9" wide. So is the wedge on the Alpine 11 plus 2" wide?

Found this shows it is 61mm by?
http://www.arctic.ac/us_en/downloads/dl/file/id/849/alpine_11_plus_height_restriction_drawing.pdf

Anyone know the distance between the bevels where it is flat? Over 49.2mm? or just sticks off a hair? Should be fine, just curious and wanted to know before I buy 7 more as I might try one that has larger flat spot.

TIA

 

[avnewb]

Alpine 64 plus is 75 by 65 and has that large curve base with staggered heatsinks so it would certainly fit on that. Costs $13 on amazon but .25a vs .16 so figure go with the 11 plus still.

Anyone have a pic of a vero29 on an 11 plus or one they could measure the flat spot?

http://www.arctic.ac/us_en/downloads/dl/file/id/1067/alpine_64_plus_height_restriction_drawing.pdf

The 11 GT rev 2 has wedge which is 36x52 so it would overhang like it would on the 64 GT R2, but both of these would probably work fine for those underpowering and cheap @ $9.

 

[Greengenes707]

@AquariusPanta
Here is the individual cri's from a 3K spectrum I was talking about...

Yes I hope so ,too ..
Still ,there are few ways around, to produce flowers utilising LED tech ...
A flower for you ,brother GG.
View attachment 3342203

Cheers.

What a cool little "flower"!!!

 

[coolbreez1]

You are right the LEDs plastic will stick out just a bit over the edge of the raised part on the heat sink. But if you turn it correctly you can still attach it with the four screws. Yes, two corners of the LEDs flat base will hang off about 1/8th, but it is a square base under a round array of LEDs, so those corners are not key in terms of the over all heat transfer. Or at least this is my reasoning, and I have not had any problems with it.

It really comes down to cost, heat sinks cost a lot to ship, and so ordering most anything besides the computer heat sinks is to costly, once you add in heatsink, fans, shipping, it becomes very cost prohibitive to use other cooling options unless you can order in bulk, driving down the per unit shipping cost. For example, if I wanted to build a 12 LED Vero 29 array I might have a build cost of 100 per LED, if I wanted to build a 3 LED array I might have a build cost of 110 per LED simply because of the shipping costs.

 

[avnewb]

Passive cooling was too much for me once I need the larger heatsinks. Price would be $40/ + ship for 10x6". Savings over time is there but will look into that later.

Im going to stick with the arctic aluma glue as so far it has worked fine.

I built this 6x5 array, with advice from SupraSPL.

30 vero 10s on the 2.8 heatsinks and six fasttech drivers.

Honeywell turbo fan blowing on it ~32w otherwise room overheated.

Thumbnails not clickable..

Posted here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-cree-cxa3070.789575/page-131#post-11272037

 

[Bueno Time]

It stays lit with no power going in(unplugged from wall, connected to driver) so i switched the AC wires and it still lit up normally and glowed after being turned off. I suspect its something on the DC side but my first thought was that it was lingering power stored by the capacitor.

Same here with a pair of Vero 10s on a cheap <$3 300mA driver. I havent got my Veros all on the HLG driver yet still waiting for friggin fasttech (slowtech) cheap driver for single V10 driving to test vF and "bin" them that way to match sets of 5 up.

I had probed pos and neg and with the plug out of the socket the voltage was at 18.x volts and would slowly drop .1 at a time, maybe an odd capacitor issue with these cheap drivers not sure. Hoping and thinking they wont glow when hooked up to the HLG driver and will let you know when I find out.

 

[Bueno Time]

Passive cooling was too much for me once I need the larger heatsinks. Price would be $40/ + ship for 10x6". Savings over time is there but will look into that later.

Im going to stick with the arctic aluma glue as so far it has worked fine.

I built this 6x5 array, with advice from SupraSPL.

30 vero 10s on the 2.8 heatsinks and six fasttech drivers.

Honeywell turbo fan blowing on it ~32w otherwise room overheated.

Thumbnails not clickable..

Posted here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-cree-cxa3070.789575/page-131#post-11272037

Nice AV, Ive got a 35 (5x7) Vero 10 setup in progress for a 2x3 tent. Also 10 660nm and 4 630nm reds on separate fasttech driver.