Any Experienced hydro growers? Need tips on growing hydro.

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
4" fan?? You running 400watts?

One 6" fan doesnt go very far if he expands at all in the future, which is why I said buy a *12" fan WITH A CONTROLLER*
Thus enabling him to turn down the fan speed until he adds more hoods or carbon filters.


Buying a 4" fan is a waste of money
SQFT is assuming 8 FT ceilings.
4" 200 CFM = 50 SQFT
6" 530 CFM = 130 SQFT
8" 670 CFM = 170 SQFT
10" 810 CFM = 200 SQFT
12" 1140 CFM = 285 SQFT

Those are running at 100% exchange every 2 minutes, that is the fastest you should ever need to run exhaust, absolute worst case scenario, add a speed controller and drop to half these speeds and you should be able to keep temp/RH without the hurricane and wastefulness.

A 12" fan can empty my entire home of it's air in about 20 minutes (over 3000 sqft, aka 25,000 cubic feet.) If you exhaust outdoors overkill is a huge expense, you have to heat or cool way more air...

I run a 4" 190 CFM fan at 50% in a 4x7 with over 2100w.
 

StondBrain

New Member
Ha
4" fan?? You running 400watts?

One 6" fan doesnt go very far if he expands at all in the future, which is why I said buy a *12" fan WITH A CONTROLLER*
Thus enabling him to turn down the fan speed until he adds more hoods or carbon filters.


Buying a 4" fan is a waste of money
h
I disagree too. 6" fan is fine. Telling him to buy a 12" fan 'just in case' is like telling a single guy to buy a mini van just in case he decides to settle down and start a family. He just wants to grow3 plants for crying out loud.
Relax guys let's not hurt feeling hahaha :hug:even so i already wrote down my ideas thanks for the help guys. Ill post pics when everything is set :bigjoint:
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
I disagree too. 6" fan is fine. Telling him to buy a 12" fan 'just in case' is like telling a single guy to buy a mini van just in case he decides to settle down and start a family. He just wants to grow3 plants for crying out loud.
My point is that a 12" fan is cheaper than buying 2-6" fans.... as is a 1000w setup compared to 2-600w setups. Obviously you missed that.

And hes growing 3 plants this time.... what about next time?

What about in a year?

Having one large fan is the way to go. Run splits and controllers but it is most cost effecient in the long run if you have any plans of expansion
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
SQFT is assuming 8 FT ceilings.
4" 200 CFM = 50 SQFT
6" 530 CFM = 130 SQFT
8" 670 CFM = 170 SQFT
10" 810 CFM = 200 SQFT
12" 1140 CFM = 285 SQFT

Those are running at 100% exchange every 2 minutes, that is the fastest you should ever need to run exhaust, absolute worst case scenario, add a speed controller and drop to half these speeds and you should be able to keep temp/RH without the hurricane and wastefulness.

A 12" fan can empty my entire home of it's air in about 20 minutes (over 3000 sqft, aka 25,000 cubic feet.) If you exhaust outdoors overkill is a huge expense, you have to heat or cool way more air...

I run a 4" 190 CFM fan at 50% in a 4x7 with over 2100w.

Your not running vented hoods?

You can use a little more air flow with 2100 watts to keep them a few degrees cooler. You dont Ned to set things up so all your air is being replaced... I never even brought it up.

Run outside air through your hoods then back outside. Run a split for a carbon filter.

120cfm for 1-1000w hood will keep it cool. Anything less than 75 and your getting some good radiant heat in your room.




Also.... I grow in a shop with a lot more sq ft. I experienced having underpowered equipment first hand... it sucks
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
A 1000w light with 6" fan in a 5x5 space with 6 plants is perfect imo. I'd do 6 plants and run ebb n grow buckets. It's pretty much idiot proof and with only one res for all the plants, it's easier to maintain, easier to control water temps (look out in Dwc, you'll get root rot if your not careful and it can be the biggest headache, especially for a noob) If temps get too high. Yeah, the ebb bucket systems are kind of pricey but you can upgrade the system to run 48 plants. So in the long run its cheaper than most set ups.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Right on man, I saw those online somewhere, I want one too, it looks so beasty with the tubing they use lol. I'd rock that thing out no doubt, maybe some day. What's the price tag on one of those?
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
Makes perfect sense, thanks man. When it comes to nutrients what can I do to improve on taste? You know, because I want to grow good yields but don't want my buds to be tasteless or taste bad.
The key to great taste and smell is 50% genetics and 50% conditions. If you keep a plant in optimal conditions it will produce a better terpen profile which gives you more taste amd smell.

When curing, hang the whole plant afyer cutting fan leaves off. Leave tue sweet leaf until the stems crack when you bend. Throw them in jars and open the jar twice a dday for one week, Rollin the jar to create new surface air on your buds. This is called decarbing and will purge the chlorophyll from the plant matter. Once youve hit the 7 day mark, ooen the jars once every other day for another week.

If the buds start feeling soft and spongy, let them sit out in the open for a couple hours.

After the cure the smell will come back.

I get better smell leaving sweet leaf on, and it protects the trichomes on the bud so they always look fresh
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
really? things happen fast in hydro, you need to be able to respond quickly. i guess some could, and some couldn't.
If you have a good ph meter and ec truncheon then hydro takes allthe guesswork out for beginners, it does however require conditions to stay dialed in. The extra work was worth having no second guess stress for me
 
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