Midwest Weedist
Well-Known Member
I need to order some new worms now that I think about it. I upgraded their home quite a bit. Where do you guys source yours from?
Great White (and other myco products) come in the form of a dormant spore. Once water is added they wake from their slumber.How does stuff like Great White work then?
I was using my wifes expensive blender for my worm bins for a while. After listening to her bitch about for a month I picked up a used one at a garage sale for $2. That is now the official worm food blenderThe also like the bananas as well, but definitely prefer the puree. That's good because I have a blender dedicated to them, and I will continue to mulch their food for them. It degrades much more quickly that way as well.
i got my worms locally, about two years ago, they have since multiplied by the thousands, one worm bin turns into two, two to four so on and so onI need to order some new worms now that I think about it. I upgraded their home quite a bit. Where do you guys source yours from?
HA u gave in! my girl ended up buying a new one, just a matter of time until I get my hands on that oneGreat White (and other myco products) come in the form of a dormant spore. Once water is added they wake from their slumber.
I was using my wifes expensive blender for my worm bins for a while. After listening to her bitch about for a month I picked up a used one at a garage sale for $2. That is now the official worm food blender
HA u gave in! my girl ended up buying a new one, just a matter of time until I get my hands on that one
Hahaha I went through this with my girls measuring cups. "Is that bat shit in MY MEASURING CUP?!?" XDGreat White (and other myco products) come in the form of a dormant spore. Once water is added they wake from their slumber.
I was using my wifes expensive blender for my worm bins for a while. After listening to her bitch about for a month I picked up a used one at a garage sale for $2. That is now the official worm food blender
Every so often you find a grower that OBVIOUSLY knows WTF they are doing.While we're on the subject, here's a soil mix excerpt from my book (only step 1):
How to Organically Garden in 8 easy-to-moderately bothersome steps:
1. Make your soil mix according to the following ratios.[1]
BASE MIX
There are two options for the base mix· The total volume of the combined Base Mix in cubic feet dictates how much of each Soil Amendment you will add
o A ratio of 1:1:2 (one part compost, one part aeration element, and two parts peat moss)o One part compost (most important ingredient)
o A ratio of 1:1:1 (one part compost, one part aeration element, and one part peat moss)
o Of the two ratio options, all equal parts (1:1:1) is great for a beginner gardener because the higher ratio of aeration element makes overwatering difficult to do, and the ratio option with more sphagnum peat moss (1:1:2) retains moisture for longer periods of time, so it works well for sprouting seeds
§ Preferably, use "living"[2] earth worm castings or other high-quality composto One part pebbled-sized red lava rock, pumice, rice hulls, or other aeration element
§ Ideally, use a mixture of different compost types
§ Low on compost? Try a combination of soil and compost, up to half soil (commercial or recycled) and half compost
o One part or two parts sphagnum peat moss
§ Hydrate before measuring and mixing, preferably using a wetting agent
SOIL AMENDMENTS
· Combine the Soil Amendments, then add to the Base Mix
· The given quantities are for each cubic foot of the Base Mix you made
- Mineral mix (essential)
- 2 to 4 cups rock dusts, including at least one of the following: glacial rock dust, basalt, bentonite, Azomite rock dust, and/or other minerals
- The mineral mix can be exclusively glacial rock dust
- No more than 1 cup each of other rock dusts (basalt, etc.) for each cubic foot of Base Mix
- Mix and match depending on local availability
- Meal mix (performance enhancers)
- A soil with 4 cups of meal mix typically only needs water from seed to harvest and may not need topdressings or botanical teas for the first crop. It also works well for small-container gardening (containers around 5 gallons)
- 2 to 4 cups total meal mix, containing the following
- ½ to 1 cup neem meal
- Improves plant immunity and soil balance
- ½ to 2 cups kelp meal
- Provides a broad spectrum of trace elements, among other benefits
- ½ to 1 cup crab shell meal
- Calcium source, for calcium-hungry plants; pH buffer
- ½ cup alfalfa meal (optional)
- Source of nitrogen, among other goodies
- ½ to 1 cup all-purpose dry organic fertilizer (optional)
- Can replace kelp and crab shell for a simple soil amendment mix
- Conversely, it is not needed when you already have kelp and crab shell
- Example fertilizers: Epsoma Tomato-tone and Garden-tone, Happy Frog All-Purpose and Tomato and Vegetable, and similar products by Dr. Earth and Down to Earth
- Liming agents (optional, but recommended for soils intended for multiple harvests)
- 1 cup oyster shell flour or gypsum powder
- Calcium source, for calcium-hungry plants; pH buffer
- Can use ½ cup of each for a total of 1 cup
[1] Credit goes to Headtreep, Cann, Ganja Girl, and ClackamasCootz, of the Recycled Organic Living Soil Internet boards, for the particular ratios and combination of ingredients.
- Biochar (optional)
- add up to 10% of the Base Mix's volume
- Biochar can be bought from gardening suppliers and should be broken up in small pieces
- Natural charcoal, which is the variety made from hardwood (not briquettes), can also be used
- Activate Biochar by mixing it with living compost or soaking it in compost tea for a few days before mixing with soil
[2] "Living" means moist compost with active bacterial and fungal populations; completely dry is useless.
VERY true, especially when you take into consideration you are re-using your soil over an over... hence allowing the aluminosilicate to break itself down.I would say rock dust is rock dust and can be used at similar rates. Aluminosilicate clays are not rock dust.
P-
screw that dude, you want chitin?
Have ever done a side by side with and without the "bug meal"? I think it would make a great amendment.screw that dude, you want chitin?
I got a tip for a MASS amount of it.
Go to the feed store and look for a bucket of dried whole mealworms and crickets. and then mash those bastards up.
I call it insect meal. and it's awesome.
I have NO idea how much NPK is in it, but I don't care.
Lots and lots of chitin there, and it breaks down better than crab meal.
NOPE, this is my first run with them, I "discovered" it while looking for insect frass, and I figured... WHOA.... chitin baby! and ya gotta think ground up bugs are high in like micronutrients or something...Have ever done a side by side with and without the "bug meal"? I think it would make a great amendment.
so far, so good, but see my last post, I also have used a different spray approach, but even prior to that the mites are actually significantly lessened than my normal probs, and the brown and red mites are all gone, it's just the good ole two-spot I have now...Has anyone noticed a reduction in pests when using frass/ground up insects as an amendment???
hah, and i'm growing a sannie freebie of the mad scientist too...Stoner plus notebook makes you a scientist!