DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

1947 Boy

Member
if you have not bought yet... go for the arctic 64 plus... it has a flat bottom al the way.
Thanks for the info. I have bought only one Alpine 11 to test it out, but I think I will switch to 64 plus.

Looks like the price on the Arctic 64 Plus is up to $19. Some other alternatives

Alpine 11 $10 (Vero29/CXB3590 fits, especially with kapton method)
Rosewill RCX-Z1 $20 (flat surface, copper pad, fan dimmer) $20
They have the 64 Plus on sale here for $14.99 Canadian (approx. $12 USD). I am going to check it out before I buy qty.
 

1947 Boy

Member
What about this option:
Heatsink from HeastsinkUSA 4.6" wide (serrated fin) let say 4" long with a 92mm 40CFM fan? Would it be better than Arctic 64 Plus?

heatsink.png
 

the dopest

Well-Known Member
I also have a question for Supra, or anyone that can answer it really(I know Supra is a busy man!).

I will be running CXA3070s AD binning on these cheap 1500ma drivers:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Waterproof-LED-driver-60W-50W-1-5A-6-12X5-QiHan-constant-current-power-supply-lighting-transformer/32265565611.html

Can anyone tell me roughly how efficient they will be? Also, let me state that I'm not chasing efficiency like some of you hard core fanatics, I'm using LEDs due to heat and grow conditions but I do appreciate the efficiency and even more so you guys dedication and knowledge you share with everyone. Big ups to all you guys beating the path for us followers.

BTW, if you can show me how you got the answer, I will not ask again, I can probably figure it out from there on.

Thanks Again!
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
I also have a question for Supra, or anyone that can answer it really(I know Supra is a busy man!).

I will be running CXA3070s AD binning on these cheap 1500ma drivers:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Waterproof-LED-driver-60W-50W-1-5A-6-12X5-QiHan-constant-current-power-supply-lighting-transformer/32265565611.html

Can anyone tell me roughly how efficient they will be? Also, let me state that I'm not chasing efficiency like some of you hard core fanatics, I'm using LEDs due to heat and grow conditions but I do appreciate the efficiency and even more so you guys dedication and knowledge you share with everyone. Big ups to all you guys beating the path for us followers.
They state, under product description, an efficiency of around 90%.
 

the dopest

Well-Known Member
Sorry Aquarius, I meant the efficiency of the COB. I see where some guys are running about 40% efficient, and the new CXBs supposedly run even higher. I should have been more specific but thanks for taking time to read/answer.

BTW, I have a nice multi meter and a Kill-a-Watt to take actual measurements if needed.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Sorry Aquarius, I meant the efficiency of the COB. I see where some guys are running about 40% efficient, and the new CXBs supposedly run even higher. I should have been more specific but thanks for taking time to read/answer.

BTW, I have a nice multi meter and a Kill-a-Watt to take actual measurements if needed.
We had a thread here on efficiency with data once before...

Edit: Here, check this out
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Not sure if the 50mm 90 degree lens would fit over the holder but it would definitely cover the LES of a 3590 and still reasonably priced.
@SupraSPL - Do you have any suggestions for a lens that will fit over a CXB3590 and it's holder? Something between ~90-120*?

Kingbrite had a nice a-symetric lens I was looking at. I just couldn't swing the rather hefty shipping fee's for them when I placed my order.
http://www.kingbrite.cn/productsinfo.php?ID=881&BigID=257&SubId=256

Thanks I know you're busy :D
Maybe these 90s? http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6539825665.html?orderId=66239274169414

@Dopest, I have not tested that driver but would be interesting to find out its actual output current, efficiency and if it is power factor corrected as claimed. The multimeter and kill a watt is enough to get that info.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
It's a serious question.
Ok?

Um (avoiding inserting smart-ass remark)... it just means you get a wider spread of light. The Brigedlux Vero COB lineup comes standard with 120 degree spread. Cree may be a little different.

Lenses aren't a must (in my opinion) but more of an addon. I would like to play with a set or two, as I'm interested in how well they (the lenses) play with my COBS.
 

testiclees

Well-Known Member
im trying to get my diy on. starting with my heatsink usa is it worthwhile to seek out a local shop that would anodize and plane my heatsink flat?

many thanks for the support and direction
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Light get's emitted at 120*, give or take. I'm mainly interested in lenses to protect the cobs themselves.
What's your take on the heat emitted from the LES being trapped inside the glass bubble, as my logic tells me that if overheating was a serious problem, the products themselves wouldn't be available.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Light get's emitted at 120*, give or take. I'm mainly interested in lenses to protect the cobs themselves.
What are COBs vulnerable to?

If my lighting system overlapped enough, I'm thinking I'd render the need for lenses moot. Then there's the efficiency advantage of no lens- but if the COBs are fragile, protecting them would be a higher priority.
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
What are COBs vulnerable to?

If my lighting system overlapped enough, I'm thinking I'd render the need for lenses moot. Then there's the efficiency advantage of no lens- but if the COBs are fragile, protecting them would be a higher priority.
Mostly stuff like dust, over spray, flailing limbs, ect. It's not that they're fragile, more that I like the simpler maintenance.

What's your take on the heat emitted from the LES being trapped inside the glass bubble, as my logic tells me that if overheating was a serious problem, the products themselves wouldn't be available.
I don't think that any heat built up inside the glass dome is going to be an issue, but if it does turn out to be so I can always cut some vent holes/slots. Ideally I'd like to have a fixture meet the IP-65 rating at some point.
 
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the dopest

Well-Known Member
@Dopest, I have not tested that driver but would be interesting to find out its actual output current, efficiency and if it is power factor corrected as claimed. The multimeter and kill a watt is enough to get that info.
Here are some measurements I posted at another site the day I got them. This was bench tested, not in the cabinet so actual temps may be different but everything else should be spot on.

I have a driver plugged in to a "Kill A Watt" for wall readings and a multi meter on the DC side, along with an infrared thermometer for temps.

Input:
122.4 volts
.48 amps
59 watts
Power Factor .99-1.0

Output
1.481 amps
37.98 volts
56.263 watts

Temp
Measuring on the cob side of heatsink outer edges averages 30.7* C with light and fan on for an hour. Measuring the junction point with the light/fan on for an hour averages 47.8*C. The heatsink with light/fan off measured 27.6*C before ever turning it on.

Thanks Supra, you are the man!
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Mostly stuff like dust, over spray, flailing limbs, ect. It's not that they're fragile, more that I like the simpler maintenance.



I don't think that any heat built up inside the glass dome is going to be an issue, but if it does turn out to be so I can always cut some vent holes/slots. Ideally I'd like to have a fixture meet the IP-65 rating at some point.
I may just buy some for the hell of it, as they're not too expensive but I'd like to get the right angle for my Vero 18 (~90*). Then I could do some testing on possible overheating hissues.

Ideally, huh? :joint:

Link to what the IP-65 test simulates: http://www.budind.com/blog/2014/02/the-mysteries-of-ip-rated-enclosures-explained/
 
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