Vincent Vega 7
Member
Everything is looking awesome but im getting yellowing in new growth areas leaves are canoeing
a little as well
a little as well
Using Subs super soil can any one tell me this problem?
- Thread starter Vincent Vega 7
- Start date
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
Had the same thing happen everytime with subs ss. Especially the first 2 weeks of flower. I upped the calcium and foliar sprayed with maxicrop plus iron and the plants were back to a dark healthy green in about 5 days.
Vincent Vega 7
Member
so is it a iron or calmag thing?
i sprayed them with some cal mag and they greened up now back and worse
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
It's a subcools supersoil sucks kinda thing. Nothing is available in that soil until like the 2nd or 3rd time using it. And even then it blows IMO. It's a lack of micronutrients causing that yellow.
Vincent Vega 7
Member
does any one else have any ideas?
youraveragehorticulturist
Well-Known Member
If you're lacking micronutrients, you need to add some! You could foliar spray with kelp extract, or soak kelp meal in water for awhile, and use that as "nutrients" when you water.
Even some epsom salts disolved on water will get you some magnesium.
You could top dress with some crab shell for Calcium and Magnesium, and kelp meal for all the other micronutrients. If your soil is defecient, I would definetly add crab shell and kelp meal to your mix in the future.
Sometimes the soil has everything, but you need to use some compost or worm casting tea to really strengthen and kick start your micro-organisms. They "digest" everything so your plants can use it.
Even some epsom salts disolved on water will get you some magnesium.
You could top dress with some crab shell for Calcium and Magnesium, and kelp meal for all the other micronutrients. If your soil is defecient, I would definetly add crab shell and kelp meal to your mix in the future.
Sometimes the soil has everything, but you need to use some compost or worm casting tea to really strengthen and kick start your micro-organisms. They "digest" everything so your plants can use it.
Vincent Vega 7
Member
so whats the problem here? i have added all that stuff to my soil! im trying to pin point the yellowing problem
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
I told you the problem and you jus didn't like the answer. I grew in Ss for a year straight, trust my advice. @greasemonkeymann has helped me with anything organic from day one of being on here. Ask him what's good.
Vincent Vega 7
Member
i did like the advice im on my way to get maxicrop right as we speak. i would just like to know what deficiency is going on so i know for the future.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
It's just a lack of nutrients being available in your soil. If u noticed you has to "cook" that soil for 30-60 days, well that's to compost everything you just put into it. Unfortanetly this is no where near long enough to break down half the shit sub tells you to use. I let some sit for 6 monthes in a garage can in a hot garage, it fucking rocked. But that's unrealistic for anyone to do. Try adding some bokashi and stay on top of your EWC teas. IMO that soil is for outdoor plants with a long growing season, because by the end of it the nutrients are actually available.
I hope this helps
Vincent Vega 7
Member
thanks man
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
what I would do Is give them a really light alfalfa tea, with a lil kelp, and a lil molasses, that'll be a super light nutrient tea, but at the same time it'll cover the majority of the micronutrients.
The plants don't look too bad, if you have them under a LOT of light that can be why.
I'd be really careful with adding anything other than that.
tablespoon of alfalfa, tablespoon of kelp meal, and a tablespoon of molasses (black strap un sulphured)
mix those all together in three gallons.
You can bubble if you want, but it's not needed, it's a nutrient tea, not an AACT.
At the end, the three gallons is good to be used at half strength, dilute with water.
If you want to be a pimp, you could go get some coco-water and some fresh aloe to add too.
The tea, is a LIGHT one, so it shouldn't piss anything off.
------edit-----
those containers look small, brother.....
Those five gallons? or less?
Go with seven gals at the least, more is better in organics.
Two gallons per foot of growth for untrained plants. That's the end growth, not current, you don't want to transplant after flowering, obviously.
So if those get to be five feet at the end, go with ten gallons of media, four footers? go with eight gallons, and so on.
Vincent Vega 7
Member
i was covering all my bases and i got ph calibration solution and my pher was way off i was phing my water down to 4.0 could this be the reason? i have dolomite lime and stuff to stabalize ph but 4.0 is way to low can a low ph cause this?
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I have no idea man, ph'ing in organics is tricky, it changes super fast.
I can tell you that if your soil is indeed at 4.0, then your plant would look like shit.
And it doesn't look like shit.
Which is why ph'ing is sorta for hydro grows more so.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
Don't bother ph'ing your water in organics. Tbh, it's more important to check the soils ph before the run than the water at any point. A good organic soil will buffer just about anything you can throw at it. I could never get subs soil to do what I wanted it to do, greasemonkeymann can help you with a different recipe if you are interested. It's pretty close to Clackamass Cootz super soil if I remember correctly. Thanks for coming by and helping @greasemonkeymann
Vincent Vega 7
Member
im getting very frustrated with this soil i was thinking of going coco next :/
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
I changed to promix after having nothing but bad to mediocre results.
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't go with coco, it seems to have a lessened effect on yields, I can think of five very experienced growers that have had the same results, all of us un-related of course, different parts of the world and such.
Doesn't effect quality but consistently about 15% less yields.
Peat is better, and good compost is even better, the better homemade compost you have the less of the peat you need, and if you can do it, leaf-mold is the best thing to use period, but it takes a couple yrs to make correctly, but you could do without either peat or coco if you have leaf-mold.
I have seen results from growers that use leaf mold as the majority of their mix and it's impressive.
I am in the process myself, but like I said, it takes time, and you can't accelerate it with nitrogen inputs either.
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
transplant them, you sure as hell aren't going to be able to flower them in those pots anyways.
they don't look that bad, but if you keep them in those pots they'll look like shit long before they are mature