c_toke_420
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2 week in flower yellowing pretty bad
yellowing
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c_toke_420
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Sorry for doubles
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c_toke_420
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Another
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c_toke_420
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And another
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xSwimToTheMoon
Well-Known Member
My first grow, I'm taking a "hands off" approach and just letting my girl's grow naturaly.
Lots of guys defoliate the lower leaves, and starting flower, my lower leaves Began to yellow. Almost like they were "defoliating" themselves. The leaves that got less and less light, died.
later in flower I supplemented cal+mag for spotting and leaf damage, but I can't see any "damage" damage to your leaves.
Lots of guys defoliate the lower leaves, and starting flower, my lower leaves Began to yellow. Almost like they were "defoliating" themselves. The leaves that got less and less light, died.
later in flower I supplemented cal+mag for spotting and leaf damage, but I can't see any "damage" damage to your leaves.
c_toke_420
Member
And Sorry about lighting
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xSwimToTheMoon
Well-Known Member
I would take them somewhere else, beacuse the hps always looks yellow and can make it harder to notice smaller things that could be important.
.even just outside the tent with flash should be ok.
.even just outside the tent with flash should be ok.
kali kid greenthumb
Well-Known Member
From what I learned when there is a imbalance with nutrients the old growth at the bottom is sending nutrients(nitrogen mostly) to the newer growth up top where its most needed, on the flip side too much of one nutrient can depress another so you have to figure out what you did prior to that happening which is usually about 5-6 days ago. Another reason that I personally did in my garden before is that I switched to bloom nutrients the first day of bloom not knowing the plant still needs that nitrogen and throughout bloom believe it or not. More info would help
c_toke_420
Member
I well try I don't have flash on my phone,$h!# phone,is there anything I should look for?
c_toke_420
Member
And I'm useing g.h flora,in coco,first time,I'm not having good luck.locking in these nutes. Started 1/4 strength and moving up,but still showing deficintcy, ,thinkin bout tryin Lucas formula,,start in to get frustrated,thinkin bout goin with pro mix and general organics,any thoughts?
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c_toke_420
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Some other had simular effects.
kali kid greenthumb
Well-Known Member
Do you have Cal-mg if not then thats your answer. Coco is much more better then a peat based medium like pro mix in my opinion and experience. I know there is a bit of calcium and mag in flora nutrients but you have to supplement more with coco because in a nut shell the cation exchange tends to hold cal-mg until the capacity is filled then allows it to be available, there is more to it then that but look up "cation exchange with coco coir" and that should help a lot.
Also do you innoculate with any beneficial microbes ? if not do that as well because they help a lot in balancing the ph in the root zone as well the nutrients.
c_toke_420
Member
I do and am useing Calimag do u think I should add just a little more??abd could I just google cation exchange with coco coir??
c_toke_420
Member
Wow,that was very help full thanks a lot for the info
c_toke_420
Member
I have great white,??
kali kid greenthumb
Well-Known Member
Yea use about 5ml per gallon calmg you shouldn't need anymore then that, to have a clean slate flush with 5ml/gal calmg never flush coco with plain water that would kill the whole cation exchange and ph should be around 5.8-6.2 doesnt have to be exact but keep it in that range.
Great white is good but its pure mycorrhizae(fungus) which takes time to develop so its more better to use during clone transplant but always good to re-incoulate. Try jellyfish by plant success I see it has bacteria and trichoderma which is good towards bloom stage but a balance is what you need because there is a war going on the root zone between beneficial microbes its amazing once you read on it.
other suggestions:
ZHO botanicare
ORGANISM XL roots organics
MYKOS/AZOS xtream gardening
I used these products above they do the job but now I use Recharge from realgrowers.com ,it sucks i have to order it since the company is based in florida and its new to the scene so no Cali hydro places carry it. Check it out but if you can't wait the best was the organism xl from roots organics. Hope this helps another good thing to google is "beneficial microbes with cannabis" Happy growing!!!
Great white is good but its pure mycorrhizae(fungus) which takes time to develop so its more better to use during clone transplant but always good to re-incoulate. Try jellyfish by plant success I see it has bacteria and trichoderma which is good towards bloom stage but a balance is what you need because there is a war going on the root zone between beneficial microbes its amazing once you read on it.
other suggestions:
ZHO botanicare
ORGANISM XL roots organics
MYKOS/AZOS xtream gardening
I used these products above they do the job but now I use Recharge from realgrowers.com ,it sucks i have to order it since the company is based in florida and its new to the scene so no Cali hydro places carry it. Check it out but if you can't wait the best was the organism xl from roots organics. Hope this helps another good thing to google is "beneficial microbes with cannabis" Happy growing!!!
c_toke_420
Member
Awesome u are definitely a lot of help,thank you for the info I real I appreciate it
researching
Well-Known Member
This is all stuff you have already been told. Are you still running a TDS of 350 on those flowering plants? You should be running near 1000. I use 4ml/gal of calimagic but 5ml/gal can't hurt. There is no need to pay the crazy amounts for great white. If you have it though use it. Silicone will help your plants as well. Coco can be super easy just follow the few main rules to using it and you will be golden.
c_toke_420
Member
Just makin sure can't afford to mess this crop up,so more 1000 ppm Nutes?
researching
Well-Known Member
Around there. In flower they need more nutes to feed the flower production.Otherwise they will pull it from elsewhere in the plant which will result in deficiencies and a poor yield. This is why you see yellowing on mature plants. Nutrients are reduced or stopped completely so the plant can utilize what it has in it to leave a clean end product that burns and smokes well. If you run a tds of 350 in flower you will be less than happy. What I did was start at a lower TDS and work up until leaf tips burned then back off a little. Now I never have brown tips or curled tips. Each strain is a little different and sativas tend to like a lighter feeding. 1000-1200 tds should be a good range to shoot for in flower. Once again I am using around 350 TDS in early veg, around 700 in veg, and 1000 in flower. All are adjusted based upon what the plant needs. Microbes and fulvic/humic acid also help with the nutrient uptake and chelation.
Take this example. As a baby you eat very little food to sustain and develop you. As you grow older and bigger if you ate the same amount you would not grow properly, have nutrient deficiencies, and probably poor health. You need more calories (consider those PPM/TDS if you will) And at some point supplemental vitamins/nutrients to balance you an make you healthy and vigorous. So plants like us have different nutrition and food needs as we go through life. It's kind of like an arc or rainbow . The needs are lower at the beginning and they increase to an apex then taper off later. Reference this crappy chart I made.
Take this example. As a baby you eat very little food to sustain and develop you. As you grow older and bigger if you ate the same amount you would not grow properly, have nutrient deficiencies, and probably poor health. You need more calories (consider those PPM/TDS if you will) And at some point supplemental vitamins/nutrients to balance you an make you healthy and vigorous. So plants like us have different nutrition and food needs as we go through life. It's kind of like an arc or rainbow . The needs are lower at the beginning and they increase to an apex then taper off later. Reference this crappy chart I made.