Best Organic Nurtrient line for hydroponics?

[phil k]

but if your thinking of doing large scale castings you gotta really understand the scale of casting production needed to supply silly places like michigan.. heck i buy 15-25 25lb bags a month depending on the season.

 

[green_machine_two9er]

you wouldn't believe it.. I'm going through it now.. AGHHH OMRI certification is UNGODLY expensive too.

Yeah I've heard that omri sticker is just a big $ sign.
What about environmental taxes?

 

[green_machine_two9er]

but if your thinking of doing large scale castings you gotta really understand the scale of casting production needed to supply silly places like michigan.. heck i buy 15-25 25lb bags a month depending on the season.

I've had my worm farm fr 6 months and harvested maybe 15-20 lbs. not even close to what I need for my own garden each month.

 

[green_machine_two9er]

but if your thinking of doing large scale castings you gotta really understand the scale of casting production needed to supply silly places like michigan.. heck i buy 15-25 25lb bags a month depending on the season.

Btw. Can't get your link to open. Could just be my phone though. Try later on my pc.

 

[phil k]

I've had my worm farm fr 6 months and harvested maybe 15-20 lbs. not even close to what I need for my own garden each month.

yeah I've seen detroit casting go from very little nothing company to a very big supplier. he actually has had some major hiccups.. last year he released a bunch of bags that got wet by like rain or something somehow... you'd open them and it was like mud... then a bit prior to that i was getting FULL lettuce leaves in my bags.... then he was really really clumpy but now he's got his stuff together its being thinned to crumbles.. proper moisture levels.. NO LETTUCE!! LOL

 

[phil k]

yeah I've seen detroit casting go from very little nothing company to a very big supplier. he actually has had some major hiccups.. last year he released a bunch of bags that got wet by like rain or something somehow... you'd open them and it was like mud... then a bit prior to that i was getting FULL lettuce leaves in my bags.... then he was really really clumpy but now he's got his stuff together its being thinned to crumbles.. proper moisture levels.. NO LETTUCE!! LOL

but i stick with him cause he guarantees his stuff.. and is cheap he;s always replaced bags that were wet, or had lettuce LOL... no questions asked

 

[st0wandgrow]

but i stick with him cause he guarantees his stuff.. and is cheap he;s always replaced bags that were wet, or had lettuce LOL... no questions asked

I see you mention ph'ing your water every time the plants need a drink. Care to elaborate on that a bit, and what do you suggest using to accomplish this?

 

[phil k]

I see you mention ph'ing your water every time the plants need a drink. Care to elaborate on that a bit, and what do you suggest using to accomplish this?

well i can show you how i do it.. with pics and explain it.. basically i have a 3 stage filter that pulls out impurities... (not r/o because 0ppm R/o water is a pain to ph balance...) anyway the filter fills a 35 gallon storage tank.. in that tank there is a fish tank air pump running 24/7 oxygenating the water.. i fill 5 gallon buckets up from that resivor when i water.. then WHERE I AM LOCATED (NOT EVERYWHERE IS THE SAME) i know every 5 gallon bucket takes 1.4ML PH down to bring my water from 7.2 down to 6.5 every time. ... the only time it changes is winter sometimes i only use 1.3ML ph down to be at 6.5 but thats besides the point... i take that water I PERSONALLY put that water into a 15 gallon electric sprayer... which has a long line on it and at the end is a sprayer handle... i dump all the ph 6.5 water into the 15 gallon resivoir turn the pump on and water.. thats all i do and have ever done for 5 years now.. would never ever look back.. ill post pics of the system i have

 

[phil k]

you need to have a good PH meter i don't recommend anything other than HANNA they started as a commercial only meter company i owned the same meter (gro checker) for 9 years before i had to replace JUST the wand.. but i ended up buying a whole new meter anyway cause it was only 100$ more than buying just the wand....

 

[phil k]

 

[phil k]

this is the meter i always recommend .. but its 200$

 

[st0wandgrow]

well i can show you how i do it.. with pics and explain it.. basically i have a 3 stage filter that pulls out impurities... (not r/o because 0ppm R/o water is a pain to ph balance...) anyway the filter fills a 35 gallon storage tank.. in that tank there is a fish tank air pump running 24/7 oxygenating the water.. i fill 5 gallon buckets up from that resivor when i water.. then WHERE I AM LOCATED (NOT EVERYWHERE IS THE SAME) i know every 5 gallon bucket takes 1.4ML PH down to bring my water from 7.2 down to 6.5 every time. ... the only time it changes is winter sometimes i only use 1.3ML ph down to be at 6.5 but thats besides the point... i take that water I PERSONALLY put that water into a 15 gallon electric sprayer... which has a long line on it and at the end is a sprayer handle... i dump all the ph 6.5 water into the 15 gallon resivoir turn the pump on and water.. thats all i do and have ever done for 5 years now.. would never ever look back.. ill post pics of the system i have

The PH down is essentially acid. Are you not worried about how that impacts the micro-life in your soil?

Myself, I find that the microbes along with the liming agents I use keeps the soil ph in check.

 

[greasemonkeymann]

The PH down is essentially acid. Are you not worried about how that impacts the micro-life in your soil?

Myself, I find that the microbes along with the liming agents I use keeps the soil ph in check.

me too, I use crab shell, oyster flour, oyster shell, biochar, and I have great luck with using as much of my compost as I can to replace the peat %.
someday (in like 12-14 months) i'll be able to grow in pure leaf mold, aeration and EWC/compost. No peat needed.
Takes so damn long though, even with running the leaves through a shredder

 

[green_machine_two9er]

this is the meter i always recommend .. but its 200$ View attachment 3408088

Idk. But ime phing is a waste of time in organic living soil. I actually haven't picked mine up in a long time. I used to check my teas before application but they are at 6.5-7 every time. My water runs from 6-8 but never adjust nowadays. I think ph up and down are for pools personally.or hydro of course. No problems without phing practices on my end.

 

[phil k]

The PH down is essentially acid. Are you not worried about how that impacts the micro-life in your soil?

Myself, I find that the microbes along with the liming agents I use keeps the soil ph in check.

no it doesn't work like that.. your in a PH scale just cause your using acid doesn't mean your waters acid.. your taking an acid to a BASE POSITIVE (7.2) water... in order to combat a high base level.. all your doing is balancing your waters ph.. not making your water acid. 6.5 is higher than any hydro grower keeps their resivoirs.. why wouldn't that acidic of water effect them? get what i mean.. also remember i add 1ML per five gallon ... thats one point four Milliliters into a five gallon its maybe a 1/4 tsp or so

 

[phil k]

Idk. But ime phing is a waste of time in organic living soil. I actually haven't picked mine up in a long time. I used to check my teas before application but they are at 6.5-7 every time. My water runs from 6-8 but never adjust nowadays. I think ph up and down are for pools personally.or hydro of course. No problems without phing practices on my end.

too each his own... i couldn't find you a single grower that knows what they are doing and have been growng a long time that would say ph doesn't matter... the only way PH doesn't matter is if you keep cloning and growing the same strain in the same setups the same way over and over the genetics will always adjust to your ph.. it doesn't mean the grow and plant are healthy... look through high times theres a gorilla grow article where a reporter followed a cartel grow for a few months taking pics and reporting how they were accomplishing grows in horrid soil with crap water.. it was all because their genetics had adjusted to the environment.. they showed pics of salt crystals forming on the soil tops.. the water was their latreen and their dump.. its a good article but the point is your plants can and will adjust it doesn't mean their are thriving the way they should

 

[green_machine_two9er]

no it doesn't work like that.. your in a PH scale just cause your using acid doesn't mean your waters acid.. your taking an acid to a BASE POSITIVE (7.2) water... in order to combat a high base level.. all your doing is balancing your waters ph.. not making your water acid. 6.5 is higher than any hydro grower keeps their resivoirs.. why wouldn't that acidic of water effect them? get what i mean.. also remember i add 1ML per five gallon ... thats one point four Milliliters into a five gallon its maybe a 1/4 tsp or so

I think. Correct me if I'm wrong please. That phing water and or nutrient solutions in hydro is ensuring that the nutrients are available to the plant. Unbalanced ph will cause lockout not because the nutrients were not there but not available.

However. In a living soil environment, Not reliant on even organic nutrient bottles, the symbiosis between bacteria. Fungus and of course the roots an rhizosphere is more important for nutrient uptake than ph. And if the ph up/down product due infact harm beneficial life, and not help nutrients become more avail... My guess Is they do more harm than good.

 

[st0wandgrow]

i couldn't find you a single grower that knows what they are doing and have been growng a long time that would say ph doesn't matter...

I can find you quite a few.

When using synthetics, yes, ph matters. With organic soil, if you have a thriving micro-herd in your soil, and you use a liming agent like oyster shell flour then there is no need for ph meters. The microbes in the soil will buffer the ph to where they want it, and where they work best.

 

[st0wandgrow]

I think. Correct me if I'm wrong please. That phing water and or nutrient solutions in hydro is ensuring that the nutrients are available to the plant. Unbalanced ph will cause lockout not because the nutrients were not there but not available.

However. In a living soil environment, Not reliant on even organic nutrient bottles, the symbiosis between bacteria. Fungus and of course the roots an rhizosphere is more important for nutrient uptake than ph. And if the ph up/down product due infact harm beneficial life, and not help nutrients become more avail... My guess Is they do more harm than good.

Exactly. The microbes run the show. They dictate what the ph of the medium is. You can pour water that's at 8.0 ph on the soil and the soils ph will remain the same.

 

[green_machine_two9er]

I can find you quite a few.

When using synthetics, yes, ph matters. With organic soil, if you have a thriving micro-herd in your soil, and you use a liming agent like oyster shell flour then there is no need for ph meters. The microbes in the soil will buffer the ph to where they want it, and where they work best.

I would say it still matters in organics. However like most things organic soil, it's all about preparations way ahead of time. Verses constantly monitoring and adjusting.