guod
Well-Known Member
just the heat...
maybe helpful...
https://www.rollitup.org/t/heatsinks-for-diy-led-lamps.851907/page-7#post-11107535
maybe helpful...
https://www.rollitup.org/t/heatsinks-for-diy-led-lamps.851907/page-7#post-11107535
Use the heat wattage dissapated. So it's total watts diss divided by your efficiency. Check @SupraSPL charts. He laid all the numbers out for us on a spreadsheetdo i use the total watt used by the cob or only the heat it emits?
Shut down the light, wire the meter in series on the (+) driver output. Connect the (+) terminal of the meter to the (+) lead from the driver, then connect the (-) terminal of the multimeter to the (+) input on the LED and finally the (-) output of the LED to the [-] lead from the driver.So I'm trying to measure current with my fluke 115. But when I measure. The light loses power. The leads on my meter spark and my mA numbers just cycle and run wild. What am I doing wrong?
Yep I was doing it all wrong. Thanks for the education!Shut down the light, wire the meter in series on the (+) driver output. Connect the (+) terminal of the meter to the (+) lead from the driver, then connect the (-) terminal of the multimeter to the (+) input on the LED and finally the (-) output of the LED to the [-] lead from the driver.
When measuring the current, the power needs to flow through the meter in order to get a reading. The internal resistance of the meter is rather high, by design. So if you have a wire leading from the [+] led of the driver to the [+] impute of the LED in addition to the multi-meter, you've effectively created two parallel paths for the power to travel. In which case it's going to choose the path of least resistance and you won't get a proper reading.
Someone else may have some corrections to this. Or better wording.
Are you aiming to measure the current on the DC side? There is a separate setting for AC and DC. Also the red lead has to be plugged into the "10A fused" slot. If you are getting sparking on the DC side you could lose the COBs to overvoltage, so you want to make sure you have a secure connection before applying power.So I'm trying to measure current with my fluke 115. But when I measure. The light loses power. The leads on my meter spark and my mA numbers just cycle and run wild. What am I doing wrong?
I think @bicit hit the nail on the head. The meter need to be in series instead of fighting the led for current in parallel. Makes sense. Dumb move on my part. Good thing I originally experimented on my crappy Chinese practice LEDs. I wasn't going to make the same mistake twice with my precious 50$ crees. I knew you guys would set me straight in no timeAre you aiming to measure the current on the DC side? There is a separate setting for AC and DC. Also the red lead has to be plugged into the "10A fused" slot. If you are getting sparking on the DC side you could lose the COBs to overvoltage, so you want to make sure you have a secure connection before applying power.
Did I say something incompletely?Oh bicit and his current measuring methods.
Nope, but it seems like the way to measure current was named after you. Congrats!Did I say something incompletely?
Looks like it would be adequate, but not overkill. Things would get rather warm if a fan failed.Ok so I've been thinking about this. 4x CXB3070s on a HLG-185h-C1400B (1.4A) mounted to the HeatsinkUSA 5.886 profile at 24" length and 2x 120mm fans at 5v. Without doing any fancy thermodynamic calculations, I think it should have plenty of dissipation, almost overkill. Am I wrong in that assumption?
Yup I'm confusedNope, but it seems like the way to measure current was named after you. Congrats!
I just measured the current on my newer lamp and it came out to be 1.2bicit.
From what I've read the liquid cooled setups aren't really worth the money. You can keep the cobs cool enough with a heat sink and fan. However there are several threads about liquid cooling, I haven't seen any badass, successful setups as of yet. Below 25C there really is no exponential gain in efficiency or lumens. And keeping the cobs at or below 25 isn't to difficult. You would be better off putting that $$ toward more cobs and run them softer. Better spread and better efficiency. But if you are just looking to experiment, I think a liquid cooled setup would be way cool, just not to practical.not trying to thread jack been lurkin for awhile just a lil paranoid to sign up but u guys have inspired me to build a liquid cooled cob set up.........how much are the heat sinks for 650w worth of cobs running u guys' I've got around $80 into an expandable water cooled set up. I'm currently running the radiator in the same room but I can remote plumb it anywhere......thoughts?