Lil green leaves
Well-Known Member
I have timers.... I think I might try 18/6 next grow
help! powdery mildew!
- Thread starter Lil green leaves
- Start date
hydroMD
Well-Known Member
8 hours for contamination
4 hours for preventative
Once is all you need
Every other answer is wrong
Edit: turn lights off for the duration of your burn. One dayof 8 hours dark will notbhurt a thing
707humboldt
Well-Known Member
My answer is wrong because I ran it for 4 hrs and only ran it again if it was needed? Ive seen people run em for an hour or two and depending on the size of your space imo that is all you need. I don't use them any more because I don't like them and rarely ever get pm.
hydroMD
Well-Known Member
Yes, I would say half assing it a few times to beat it back is wrong when you could do it the right way once an be done with it for good.
707humboldt
Well-Known Member
You are entitled to your opinion but its not half ass if it works the first time. Coming here and saying "every other answer is wrong" is not ok. I posted my opinion and experience that worked. Not saying your way doesnt work, I'm sure it does but that does not make my way wrong. Especially since it worked
707humboldt
Well-Known Member
I haven't even had pm in a couple years. The right environment is the best way to solve it
hydroMD
Well-Known Member
Its not an opinion.
He wasnt asking for 'opinions'
He was asking for the answer
Hence qhy I came here ans told it like it was
Your probably one of those that dont replace a clutch while the tramsmission is being worked on... just come back as needed.
Smh
It worked for you... who the F knows what variables your working with.
Not to mention pm is systematic... its not just on the outside of your plant asshat
So yeah.. 8 hours
hydroMD
Well-Known Member
Here is some actual info for ya bro. Dont let this fool convince you to take shortcuts
Introduction:
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can seriously damage indoor and outdoor crops. Powdery mildew can rapidly infect crops in both vegetative and flowering stages, coating leaves, stems and buds in fungus.
Powdery mildew typically thrives in cool, damp, shaded and poorly ventilated areas. Airborne spores brought into the grow room land on leaf surfaces and will germinate given favorable conditions. High night humidity levels often trigger the growth of mildew spores. Powdery mildew can attack indoor crops year round.
Powdery mildew is almost impossible to stop in late flowering, so early detection and control is essential. Perpetual harvest, dense scrog/sog systems, and damp basement grows are particularly vulnerable to powdery mildew. Note: strains vary in their susceptibility.
This FAQ focuses on indoor prevention and treatment options. Please read Bongaloid’s Powdery Mildew FAQ for more information.
Identification, Symptoms and damage:
Early signs of powdery mildew include white powder/fuzzy patches on leaves (usually low in the canopy) and a fuzzy white coating on lower stems. Note: powdery mildew can be wiped off the leaves for a quick visual check.
These fuzzy mycelium patches produce airborne spores that rapidly attack adjacent plants; mildew will eventually coat leaves and entire plants, reducing photosynthesis, plant vigor and bud quality.
Plants on the edge of a garden, in corners and under stress are attacked first; infection usually starts in the lower canopy where conditions are optimal. As infection progresses, mildew will spread to the top of the plants and finally attack the buds.
Infected buds may appear normal; but are internally dusted with white powder (which cannot be removed by drying), and have a stale, musty/moldy smell when dry. Smoking or trimming infected buds can cause sickness and lung infections, and is not recommended. Infected leaves should be discarded. Lower buds are the most susceptible.
Powdery mildew is difficult to 100% eradicate; control requires prevention, early detection, and pro-active measures.
Preventive gardening:
Preventative gardening techniques can be effective in defending against powdery mildew.
Maintain healthy plants. Stressed plants are often attacked first, so it is important to monitor and remove unhealthy plants.
Detection. Inspect corners, edge and lower portions of the garden frequently. Remove infected leaves, or move infected plants out of the main garden.
Dont water plants at night. Reduce or stop watering before the lights have gone out to help evaporate and reduce room humidity (thnx dutchmaster).
Reduce plant density. Spread plants apart to improve air circulation. Don’t place plants directly against walls or into corners, typically areas of poor air circulation. Pull plants 6”-1’ away from walls or reflective surfaces, and blow air to these areas.
Pruning. Remove the lowest leaves as the plants mature and prune the bottom 1/3 of the plant during veg to increase airflow inside the lower canopy. Remove all unnecessary growth. Put an oscillating fan down low to blow through this pruned area.
Foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can sometimes cause excessive nighttime humidity levels. Discontinue if mildew appears.
Harvest early if mildew is a problem.
Environmental control:
Improving growroom conditions is an excellent way to passively prevent and minimize damage by powdery mildew.
Monitor humidity levels. A quality humidity gauge should be used to monitor day and night r.h levels. Avoid prolonged high humidity levels: 50-60% r.h is ideal. Humidity must be kept below 70% during the night; levels over 80% will guarantee infection within 48 hrs.
Ventilation. Constant air movement inhibits mildew, and lowers humidity. Use oscillating fans on all sides of a garden to circulate the air. Ventilate air out of the grow room periodically during the night cycle to reduce humidity from irrigation and transpiration.
Note: Once mildew is established, oscillating fans may actually spread spores throughout the garden. Stop fans, treat infected areas, and then resume airflow.
Heat night air. Warm air holds more moisture than colder air. Heat helps dry the air and lower humidity during the night cycle. Heat the room at night and exhaust the room periodically to remove this warm/moist air.
Dehumidifier.Very effective in preventing mildew from spreading. Set controls for 40-60% and let run during night cycle.
Hepa filter. Filter the intake with a Hepa filter to eliminate spores from entering room. Inspect and change filter frequently.
Ionizer / Ozone generators. Leak some output to kill airborne pathogens and spores.
* Sulphur burner. These devices vaporize (not burn) elemental sulphur, coat the room with a fine film of sulphur, inhibiting PM spores from germinating. Also inhibits insects to some degree.
Run for 12 hours initially (at night, exhaust blower off, circ fans on), then 1-4 hrs/night thereafter. Some discontinue when buds begin to form, other let it run up to the last week. Very effective prevention.
Chemical control:
Note: Chemical information sourced from maximumyield.com and cannibisculture.com
Chemical control should be considered a last resort. Chemicals should be sprayed only in veg or early flower to prevent absorption into the buds and burning bud hairs. Chemicals may have to be applied repeatedly to be effective, and may take a few days for noticeable results. Use a surfactant to help adhere chemical to leaf surface. Some chemicals are more harmful than others; follow label directions and observe precautions.
Always spot spray first. Spraying individual leaves can be an option.
Note: many chemicals will leave a residue that appears similar to powdery mildew!
* Alkaline water:
Alkaline water can affect powdery mildew, as mildew cannot grow in basic conditions. Mist plants generously with water at 8.0+ pH frequently; discontinue when buds begin to mature to prevent budrot.
[Editor's note: this does work and is effective in late flower. Alkaline water does not seem to affect buds or bud hairs. The effect is temporary, but drastically slows mildew grow and spread. Reapply every 4-5 days.]
Baking soda: Sodium Bicarbonate
"Sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall". Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves, which should be washed off with water before more is applied.
Foliar spray: 15ml / gallon
Potassium Bicarbonate:
"Collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. Very safe, very effective contact fungicide". Kaligreen and Armicarb100.
Garden sulphur:
A common non-toxic spray, sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. Spray young plants weekly before hairs form (or spray lower leaves only), then discontinue. Do not wash off. Note: dried sulphur spray looks similar to mildew. For best results, prune plants in veg/early flower, then spray lower stems and foliage. Warning: can give a sulphur taste if sprayed directly onto buds!
Foliar spray:
15-20ml sulphur powder/Liter water. Keep well mixed when spraying.
Note: will not wash off buds. Re-application may be necessary.
Neem Oil:
Protects and kills mildew by inhibiting respiration; also protects against mites and may improve plant vigor. Results are noticeable in a couple of days.
Pro-silica: (Soluble Silicon)
”… increases resistance to pathogens by accumulating in…(leaf and root) cells of plants, providing a barrier against penetration by invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Foliar applications leave deposits of silicon…on the leaf surface that promote effective physical barriers to…infection.” Pro-silica is alkaline.
Foliar spray: 1 part in 5
SM90:
A natural plant extract in a vegetable oil base.
Foliar spray: 10ml/liter
Copper Sulphate:
"Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium."
Effective one-shot application, but production may be discontinued.
Benomyl: Apply in veg only.
Malatox:
by the chronic:
…”This is a wonder cure. Mildew completely vanishes for up to 7 weeks! Make sure you spray before the first week of flowering.”
Foliar spray: 2.5ml per liter of water.
Biological controls:
Unpasterized milk:
Note: must be fresh, not store bought (which is pasturized). Diltute 10 parts water to 1 part milk. Works, although the milk may smell.
AQ10:
A biofungicide. Ampelomyces quisqualis is a fungus that "parasites the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time." Effective only in initial stages of infection.
Plant Shield:
Plant Shield is a foliar spray (General Hydroponics), which kills many types of leaf and root fungus. Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. Safe to use. Takes 2-10 days.
Serenade:
"The fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is effective and easy to spray or use as a dip". Contact fungicide
Introduction:
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can seriously damage indoor and outdoor crops. Powdery mildew can rapidly infect crops in both vegetative and flowering stages, coating leaves, stems and buds in fungus.
Powdery mildew typically thrives in cool, damp, shaded and poorly ventilated areas. Airborne spores brought into the grow room land on leaf surfaces and will germinate given favorable conditions. High night humidity levels often trigger the growth of mildew spores. Powdery mildew can attack indoor crops year round.
Powdery mildew is almost impossible to stop in late flowering, so early detection and control is essential. Perpetual harvest, dense scrog/sog systems, and damp basement grows are particularly vulnerable to powdery mildew. Note: strains vary in their susceptibility.
This FAQ focuses on indoor prevention and treatment options. Please read Bongaloid’s Powdery Mildew FAQ for more information.
Identification, Symptoms and damage:
Early signs of powdery mildew include white powder/fuzzy patches on leaves (usually low in the canopy) and a fuzzy white coating on lower stems. Note: powdery mildew can be wiped off the leaves for a quick visual check.
These fuzzy mycelium patches produce airborne spores that rapidly attack adjacent plants; mildew will eventually coat leaves and entire plants, reducing photosynthesis, plant vigor and bud quality.
Plants on the edge of a garden, in corners and under stress are attacked first; infection usually starts in the lower canopy where conditions are optimal. As infection progresses, mildew will spread to the top of the plants and finally attack the buds.
Infected buds may appear normal; but are internally dusted with white powder (which cannot be removed by drying), and have a stale, musty/moldy smell when dry. Smoking or trimming infected buds can cause sickness and lung infections, and is not recommended. Infected leaves should be discarded. Lower buds are the most susceptible.
Powdery mildew is difficult to 100% eradicate; control requires prevention, early detection, and pro-active measures.
Preventive gardening:
Preventative gardening techniques can be effective in defending against powdery mildew.
Maintain healthy plants. Stressed plants are often attacked first, so it is important to monitor and remove unhealthy plants.
Detection. Inspect corners, edge and lower portions of the garden frequently. Remove infected leaves, or move infected plants out of the main garden.
Dont water plants at night. Reduce or stop watering before the lights have gone out to help evaporate and reduce room humidity (thnx dutchmaster).
Reduce plant density. Spread plants apart to improve air circulation. Don’t place plants directly against walls or into corners, typically areas of poor air circulation. Pull plants 6”-1’ away from walls or reflective surfaces, and blow air to these areas.
Pruning. Remove the lowest leaves as the plants mature and prune the bottom 1/3 of the plant during veg to increase airflow inside the lower canopy. Remove all unnecessary growth. Put an oscillating fan down low to blow through this pruned area.
Foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can sometimes cause excessive nighttime humidity levels. Discontinue if mildew appears.
Harvest early if mildew is a problem.
Environmental control:
Improving growroom conditions is an excellent way to passively prevent and minimize damage by powdery mildew.
Monitor humidity levels. A quality humidity gauge should be used to monitor day and night r.h levels. Avoid prolonged high humidity levels: 50-60% r.h is ideal. Humidity must be kept below 70% during the night; levels over 80% will guarantee infection within 48 hrs.
Ventilation. Constant air movement inhibits mildew, and lowers humidity. Use oscillating fans on all sides of a garden to circulate the air. Ventilate air out of the grow room periodically during the night cycle to reduce humidity from irrigation and transpiration.
Note: Once mildew is established, oscillating fans may actually spread spores throughout the garden. Stop fans, treat infected areas, and then resume airflow.
Heat night air. Warm air holds more moisture than colder air. Heat helps dry the air and lower humidity during the night cycle. Heat the room at night and exhaust the room periodically to remove this warm/moist air.
Dehumidifier.Very effective in preventing mildew from spreading. Set controls for 40-60% and let run during night cycle.
Hepa filter. Filter the intake with a Hepa filter to eliminate spores from entering room. Inspect and change filter frequently.
Ionizer / Ozone generators. Leak some output to kill airborne pathogens and spores.
* Sulphur burner. These devices vaporize (not burn) elemental sulphur, coat the room with a fine film of sulphur, inhibiting PM spores from germinating. Also inhibits insects to some degree.
Run for 12 hours initially (at night, exhaust blower off, circ fans on), then 1-4 hrs/night thereafter. Some discontinue when buds begin to form, other let it run up to the last week. Very effective prevention.
Chemical control:
Note: Chemical information sourced from maximumyield.com and cannibisculture.com
Chemical control should be considered a last resort. Chemicals should be sprayed only in veg or early flower to prevent absorption into the buds and burning bud hairs. Chemicals may have to be applied repeatedly to be effective, and may take a few days for noticeable results. Use a surfactant to help adhere chemical to leaf surface. Some chemicals are more harmful than others; follow label directions and observe precautions.
Always spot spray first. Spraying individual leaves can be an option.
Note: many chemicals will leave a residue that appears similar to powdery mildew!
* Alkaline water:
Alkaline water can affect powdery mildew, as mildew cannot grow in basic conditions. Mist plants generously with water at 8.0+ pH frequently; discontinue when buds begin to mature to prevent budrot.
[Editor's note: this does work and is effective in late flower. Alkaline water does not seem to affect buds or bud hairs. The effect is temporary, but drastically slows mildew grow and spread. Reapply every 4-5 days.]
Baking soda: Sodium Bicarbonate
"Sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall". Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves, which should be washed off with water before more is applied.
Foliar spray: 15ml / gallon
Potassium Bicarbonate:
"Collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. Very safe, very effective contact fungicide". Kaligreen and Armicarb100.
Garden sulphur:
A common non-toxic spray, sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. Spray young plants weekly before hairs form (or spray lower leaves only), then discontinue. Do not wash off. Note: dried sulphur spray looks similar to mildew. For best results, prune plants in veg/early flower, then spray lower stems and foliage. Warning: can give a sulphur taste if sprayed directly onto buds!
Foliar spray:
15-20ml sulphur powder/Liter water. Keep well mixed when spraying.
Note: will not wash off buds. Re-application may be necessary.
Neem Oil:
Protects and kills mildew by inhibiting respiration; also protects against mites and may improve plant vigor. Results are noticeable in a couple of days.
Pro-silica: (Soluble Silicon)
”… increases resistance to pathogens by accumulating in…(leaf and root) cells of plants, providing a barrier against penetration by invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Foliar applications leave deposits of silicon…on the leaf surface that promote effective physical barriers to…infection.” Pro-silica is alkaline.
Foliar spray: 1 part in 5
SM90:
A natural plant extract in a vegetable oil base.
Foliar spray: 10ml/liter
Copper Sulphate:
"Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium."
Effective one-shot application, but production may be discontinued.
Benomyl: Apply in veg only.
Malatox:
by the chronic:
…”This is a wonder cure. Mildew completely vanishes for up to 7 weeks! Make sure you spray before the first week of flowering.”
Foliar spray: 2.5ml per liter of water.
Biological controls:
Unpasterized milk:
Note: must be fresh, not store bought (which is pasturized). Diltute 10 parts water to 1 part milk. Works, although the milk may smell.
AQ10:
A biofungicide. Ampelomyces quisqualis is a fungus that "parasites the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time." Effective only in initial stages of infection.
Plant Shield:
Plant Shield is a foliar spray (General Hydroponics), which kills many types of leaf and root fungus. Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. Safe to use. Takes 2-10 days.
Serenade:
"The fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is effective and easy to spray or use as a dip". Contact fungicide
707humboldt
Well-Known Member
Dude you have no clue. What do you have 2 lights? I run sealed rooms with co2 & atlas one controller, 1000w de's, blue lab guardian, dehums, etc. Have over 40 lights, deps, and full term plants. Completely controlled environments with 2-2.25# per light. Im doing something right because I rarely ever get pm. My variables are completely controlled to where ever I want them. You are the one with a dick response like you know all. I never would have even said anything if you weren't such a dick about it. And even your post is just an opinion. Its what you do. Not everyone does things the same way, and other peoples ways work.
marquezmurder
Well-Known Member
Attachments
707humboldt
Well-Known Member
Bottom line is my way works too. Even though I wouldn't use a surfer burner any more any way. Atomizers with powdered sulfer/serenate are the way to go
hydroMD
Well-Known Member
Sweet pics ya found on the internet
If you would have spent that time searching for facts we might be on the same page
And yes, i run 4 lights max these days.... your point?
Still growing better pot than you amd obviously a lil more versed in dealing with pm
Lmfao
hydroMD
Well-Known Member
Candles do atomize the sulfur foo
707humboldt
Well-Known Member
Yea found on the internet. Good luck buddy your going to need it. Now wonder why you got issues. Looked at the first page of your journal and your temps are 90 and humidity through the roof? Wtf. Check my journal, same room in the pic, just updated to DE and upgraded a few pieces of equipment. And heres some more pics of the same gardens since "i found them" Got nothing more to say, my pictures speak louder than words
707humboldt
Well-Known Member
I simply stated what worked for me in the past.
marquezmurder
Well-Known Member
I was just trying to lighten the mood and it could also be taken in other ways since the comment you posted had alot to do with OILS. But you sir are not being informative by acting like I know nothing. The product I use for PM comes from my scientist buddy in Oregon.... Colorado is prone to PM, yet I don't have any because I have healthy plants and good conditions.
I tested the product I am referring to on thousands of plants of multiple different cultivars in 50+ greenhouses. But hey I know nothing.
hydroMD
Well-Known Member
Norhing ive saod in this thread was to you
